Merle Coggins

If the wheels are toed out slightly, or if the tie rods are loose, it'll wander like that. We used to have that problem with hay wagons. Merle

Yes I did, Ed. Thanks. I plan to keep mine black.

OK, I got it out. I had to drill a couple of 1/8" holes in the horn button and use one of my large snap-ring pliers to push in and twist. This gave me the grip and leverage that I needed. Once the horn button was out I could see the problem. It was VERY rusty down in there. Now I could finally remove the steering wheel. I used an OTC Bearing Splitter with an "H" bar puller. It's a piece of cake with the right tools. The tools

Yea, and our Groundhog, Winnie, didn't see her shadow on the 2nd, so spring is just around the corner. I heard that Punxsutawney Phil did see his shadow, so it looks like Pennsylvania will have a longer winter. Sorry Dave. Good thing February is the shortest month, although it's got an extra day this year.

Dave, the whole inner fender panel is removable on the Pilot House trucks. There are around a dozen bolts and they WILL slide up and out of the way. Then remove the tire and you should be able to crawl right in there. Merle

This is my theory about why they did this... The twin cylinder brakes used on the front of the cars and rear of the trucks must have more stopping power. For this reason it is logical to have them up front on a car because there is more traction on the front during braking due to weight transfer. However, on the trucks, if they are loaded down (doint "Job Rated" work) you would want more braking force at the rear because that's where your traction is. On the other hand, when empty there's now a better chance of locking up the rears because of reduced traction. One other thought on this. 1/2 ton trucks use 11" brakes at the rear and 10" brakes up front. 3/4 ton trucks use 11" brakes at both ends. Dave, if you do a car brake swap, be sure you use the correct size brakes. Merle

What about the tornado's that ripped through down south? Any of our people in that area. This snow is nothin'. I already drove to Beloit and back this morning. (about 155 miles round trip) Then up to Germantown and back this afternoon. (about 20 mile round trip) The afternoon trip was worse because of near whiteout conditions. But I like snow. It's difficult to get around during the storms, and a bit of work to clean up afterwards, but it looks so nice having everything covered with a nice blanket of white. We've just been spoiled lately with mild winters. It's about time we get nailed again like in years gone by.

Thanks guys. I may have all the bits to complete the electric motor setup. I just have to dig around in the parts truck some. Right now it's being burried under a couple feet of snow. Both trucks are '50 B-2-C's, so they should be interchangable. Sorry Ed, no spare knobs. Even if I go with the electric motor, I'll keep the vaccume one, with knob, as a spare part. If I can find all the other bits for the electric one, that's probably the way I'll go. Like I said, I would like the nostalgia factor of the vaccume one, but I feel the electric one would be more reliable if caught in the rain. Merle

OK, so it's not a critical decission, but I'd still like to hear other opinions. My truck has a vaccume wiper motor. I cleaned it up some and connected it to a vaccume pump. After a little work, and good doses of air tool oil, it works OK. My parts truck had an electric wiper motor. I connected it up to my battery and it too works OK. Now which one should I use? I like the vaccume wipers for the nostalgia factor. But the electric wipers may be more reliable. Which would you use? One thing I'm not sure of at this point is whether or not I have all the bezels and correct wiper arms for the electric motor. It uses different a attachement system. Or could I use the pivots from the vaccume setup on the electric motor?

Good deal, Matt. I just removed my horn button this past weekend, but I don't have the horn ring like your's so I wasn't sure if it would be the same or not. Sounds like it was s piece of cake. Mine was a bit rusty inside. The manual said to push in and twist to the right and it would pop out. I had to drill a couple of 1/8" holes and use a large snap ring pliers in the holes for leverage to twist it loose. Now that I can see all the rust in side I can understand why it was so stubborn. I wanted to remove the steering wheel to repaint it, so now I'll have to fill the two holes with appoxy before painting.

According to the Members List, Jeannette joined on Jan 20th of this year and the only activity to date is the Private Messages, with the last one at 12:50 PM today. Sounds like a Spammer got in. I haven't received the message yet either, but if she stays here much longer, I'm sure we'll all get it.

I just looked through my manual too. I see what you mean, but aparently they felt that the axle oil wasn't sufficient for the wheel bearings, so they have them packed with grease. I guess I would follow the manual and grease pack them to be on the safe side. If the axle oil does get into the bearings and breaks down the grease, I don't believe it would cause any serious problems. Merle

You are SO close. For some reason you Photobucket site is adding the "?t=..." at the end, and that is messing up your links. Have you by chance added "Tags" to you photos? Merle

Seems that you are missing the "http://" at the front of the link. alt='000_100_0979.jpg?t=1202213863'> Then I deleted the "?t=1202213863" from the end and now the picture links in. I'm not sure where that came from.

That would make more sense. It seems that this guy doesn't know what he has. Merle

I've got some spare axles for 3/4 ton trucks, but I think they have 11" drums verses 10" on the 1/2 ton trucks. You best bet is probably to find someone like me who's got a spare 1/2 ton axle and is willing to remove and sell a drum. Merle

Plus he says it's 41" long. That would go almost the full length of the dash. I've never seen any trim like that on these trucks.

I just came across this piece on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1948-1950-Dodge-B-Series-Truck-Dash-Trim-Strip_W0QQitemZ150212785275QQihZ005QQcategoryZ140720QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I'm confussed. I don't recall any stainless pieces on my dash that resemble this. Am I missing something, or is this seller confussed as to what this actually fits? Merle

There are photo editing software programs that will "Resize" your photos. It will basically compress the file into a smaller package. In the future, you should set your camera to smaller file sizes. Then you don't need to resize them later. Merle

Maybe this will help. Here is a screen shot from my Photobucket site. The one area shows where to add photos from your computer into Photobucket. Once they are there, click on the text box next to "IMG Code" and the text will be "Copied". Now just "Paste" it into your message (I use "Ctrl-V" since there's no "Paste" button) It should look something like this IMG]http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h254/mac2026/Other/ScreenShot.jpg[/img I removed the [ and ] from the ends so that the link wouldn't work. Here's another screen shot that I did about adding photos into the message text box. You can use these tool buttons too. If you use the Photo Link tool button, then copy the "HTML Code" instead of the "IMG Code"

I picked up these dual horns at the Fall Jefferson Swap Meet this past year. The guy wasn't sure what they came off of, but was pretty sure it was a 6 volt Mopar. He also didn't know if they would work, but the price was right and I couldn't pass them up. Now my questions. The mounting bracket is considerably wider than the one that my original horn mounted to. For those who have dual horns on your trucks, is the bracket that bolts to the firewall different (wider) than the standard one? Or am I just going to have to modify this one to fit my truck firewall bracket? Also, the horn relay that is attached has 3 terminals. One is attached to the horns, so I assume that one it the output. Of the other two, which is batery power and which goes to the horn button. I can't seem to find any marking on it to designate the terminals. Probably painted over. I could connect an Ohm meter and problably figure it out, but I thought I'd tap in to the brain trust here first before I go and get my hands dirty. I sure hope these work. I'm hoping they sound better than the single horn. Merle

According to my calculator, East Windsor, CT to Santa Rosa, CA = Aprox. 3040 miles. If you could average 40 MPH you'd be on the road for 76 hours. If you could drive for 10 hours per day, on average, it would take you a little over a week to get home. Got a couple weeks of extra vacation time? It would be an interesting voyage.

If that's an "F" model, wouldn't it have the larger block 236 CID engine?

I must disagree with you, Bill. My filter IS connected correctly. The upper connection is clearly marked OUT. The bottom connection feeds up through the center tube and actually exits near the top of the tube. The oil then migrates through the filter and will exit at the upper port and drain back into the oil pan. Any dirty oil will be on the inside of the filter. Once you pull the filter out, you can drain the remaining oil from the canister and start fresh. I agree that some filters are connected the other way around, as I stated in my first post in this thread. Gregammon, the originator of this thread, also stated that his filter canister is marked "outlet" at the upper connection. This tells me that his filter is similar to mine and should be plumbed accordingly. Merle