Merle Coggins

Shouldn't be anything but the screen on your pickup tube. It's possible that at one time an oil filter came apart and the filter media got down into the oil pan and got sucked up onto the screen. I saw that happen one other time on a large V12 Cummins engine. The bypass filters split and the filter media got down into the pan and plugged the pickup. After the customer replaced 2 sets of turbochargers in very few operating hours, I was called in to investigate. Found bery low oil pressure and tracked it down to the plugged oil pump pickup.

My filter is also marked "OUT" at the upper fitting. This is the outlet of the filter. Plum the pressure line into the bottom and the return line to the upper fitting. Some filters are plumed differently, with the pressure line at the top. There's a reason that your filter is marked like it is. It is to ensure correct oil flow for proper operation.

One of our own (Todd B from the truck side) created this one. It has a nice rustic cabin look on the outside, and the inside woodwork is just beautiful.

Did you check the trans oil level while you were under there? If these other things were left unfinished, I'd be double checking everything. Merle

I just removed a bell housing from an engine and the dowels stuck out just enough to properly locate the bell housing to the block, but not so much that it couldn't be removed with the flywheel on. You could play with the pin protrusion to get them to that point, Or you could remove them all together, then once the bell housing is bolted back up, with the bolts loose, knock the dowel pins back in from the front side of the block flange. Merle

Whatcha towin' there? Looks like an old Pettybone Carryall.

There are two dowel pins, one on either side of the block between the two lower bolts. Bolt the bell housing back up tight, then drive the dowel pins back into the bell housing and out of the block. Now unbolt the bell housing again and it should slip up over the top of your flywheel. Merle

The D56 is the give away as to what it came out of. the other number is the engine serial number.

Is there a fast idle cam connected to your choke like on later model carbs? It may be stuck on the high side. I'm not familure with the automatic chokes on the cars. My truck has a good old fashion manual choke and throttle cable. Merle

It's a keeper, Dan. That beats the 96 HP 218 that came in it from the factory.

I ended up getting the Raybestos numbers out of a book at my local Checker Auto Parts, but their prices were quite high. My Napa sales rep took those numbers and had them crossed to Napa. They ended up being the same numbers. I also noticed that Parts America (CSK Auto {Checker, Schuck's & Kragen} or Advance Auto Parts) list the same numbers under Tru Torque or Dorman brands. They are as follows; Rear brake cylinders; Left Upper W10580 Right Upper W10581 Left Lower W10582 Right Lower W10583 I believe Napa dropped the "W" The fronts get more tricky. Parts America lists P/N W17789 for both wheels. This cylinder is listed as having a 1 3/8" bore. However, they should be a step bore type with one side larger than the other. They do show P/N W9375 and W9376 for a B4F or B4PW as having 1 1/4" and 1 3/8" bores. These may actually be the correct parts for our trucks too. I think I just used the W17789 cylinders. I got my master cylinder from Napa too. That they listed in their catalogs, and even on their online catalog. I don't recall the number.

Why not just get a water pump for the internal bypass system? If you go with the external bypass water pump you will also need the external bypass thermostat system to go with it. Then as long as the small hole, in the block, behind the water pump is sealed off by the pump gasket, it should work. Merle

What brackets are you refering to? Pilot House trucks didn't have turn signals as original equipment. Many have converted their parking lights in to dual filament bulbs for turn signal use. Other trucks have signal lights mounted to the top of the fenders. (I personally don't care for that look unless it's a larger truck) I borrowed this pic from Matt over on the truck side Are you missing the whole parking lamp assemblies, which are also part of the grill bars? You may want to post this on the truck side. More of the truck guys would see it there. Merle

I have identity theft coverage through my home owners insurance. My insurance agent told me about it a couple of years ago so I had him add it in. It was a very minor increase in my annual premium. I hope I never have to use it. Merle

I got my plug wires from Farm & Fleet. It's a local farm supply store chain, sorta like Tractor Supply. If you have stores like that in your area, go look for generac cut to fit wires for a 6 cylinder tractor. I think mine were around $15. One end had the 90 degree booted spark plug end. The other end you cut to length and crimp on the distributor cap ends. They worked perfectly. Good luck. It looks like you're really getting into it already. Merle

All of the glass, except for the rear corners, is just standard flat laminated glass. It should be available at any auto glass shop. As long as you can use the original glass as a pattern, they can cut new pieces for you. Other than that, you'll just have to go shopping at the "Old Mopar Parts Home Shopping Network" (A.K.A. Ebay) Looks like you've got a good start. Keep us posted on your progress. Merle

I do have a B2C ('50 3/4 ton) parts truck that I've slowly been stripping parts of off. I can have a look at the front springs to see what kind of shape they're in, but they're burried under a couple feet of snow at the moment. As I recall, they're OK. Also, I don't know what it would cost to ship them half way across the country. Some of the guys over on the car side of this board have purchased replacement springs somewhere. There was even a post about it recently. You might want to search through the posts over there for possible spring vendors.

I guess the shock mounts are right. Here's mine. The sagging springs may account for the discrepancy in your tape measure. The shackle is at the rear, so that when the springs straighten out, the axle moves to the rear.

The axle looks right, but where the shock mounts to the axle looks wrong somehow. I'd have to go look at mine to confirm that. You will definately need new springs. It looks like someone cut the springs to lower it, then added a piece of coil spring to assist it. It looks like the truck is resting on the rubber bump stops. That's just wrong on many accounts.

Greg, I hadn't noticed your new signature line until now. I like it.

The short side box was an option. I don't know if it was available for both 1/2 and 3/4 ton versions. It was basically the 39-47 truck bed reused on the "newer" models. The 3/4 ton truck would have a longer bed (8" longer) to account for the longer wheel base.

Looks pretty solid. And not bad lookin' once you knock the dust off. Welcome aboard. Merle

Looking at the pics of your truck it looks like the front end sits low and the wheel appears to be setting toward the back of the opening. What type of front suspension is under there? Maybe someone did a front clip upgrade and messed up the wheel base by a few inches? The original front suspension is a solid axle with leaf springs.

I'm thinking the serial number on your frame is correct. I think you do have a '50 3/4 ton truck with a car engine. (That engine may actually be a 230 CID, so it's a keeper unless you want originality) The driver's door must have been replaced at one time. The '48-'50 door has a crease that goes almost the full length of the door, whereas the crease on the '51-53 doors only goes half way. This is my '50 B2C 3/4 ton truck shortly after it arrived home.

Parts book says P/N 1257 392 for 6V 45Amp generator. Or P/N 1264 054 for a 6V 35 amp for Low Speed Cut In. This is the tag on mine. The part number doesn't seem to match that I have in the parts manual.