Merle Coggins

Wally, I may have a spare speedo from a B2C. I don't remember it's condition at this moment. I can check it out tonite. Send me a PM or email at luv2wingit@sbcglobal.net if you need it. Merle

Or you can type your VIN into this web site to find out what it is. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/decode.php

OTC tools are top notch. You'll be happy with it. GOOD FIND!!!

Restoration Specialists has those retainer clips listed in their catalog.

Not a car story, but similar circumstance. 1 week after getting my brand new Honda Gold Wing I'm installing a trailer hitch. I managed to push it forward off of it's center stand and it tipped over onto my snow blower cracking the faring. I felt like a heal having to go back to the dealer to order up a new $375 faring panel. Although I did get to know my bike quite well as I disassembled it to replace the panel. Another story that comes to mind... I was working at a customer's gravel pit one day. The girl that worked in the scale house had just picked up her car from the body shop. Apparently she had just been in a fender bender. She had her car parked behind the company pickup next to the scale house. Around mid morning she was asked to make a parts run, so she jumped into the pickup and backed directly into her car. She caught a lot of ribbing over that one.

I thought Lucas Oil was out of the Indianapolis area. I know their NHRA race team is, and they have the naming rights on the new football stadium in Indy.

I thought about that too, but I don't think there's enough room in there for a clutch fan. Merle

You do have a hole in the pump plate that will match up the the large hole in the block. It's just a bit smaller. That's all you need. You have an internal bypass water pump. You can remove you other neck assembly and plug it as shown in one of the posts, or put a different nipple in there for your heater. Merle

I ordered up a bunch of stuff from them late last week. I also downloaded their catalog and printed it out. It's a pretty thick book when done. Merle

I also got my shocks from Auto Zone, but the front and rear's were different part numbers. My local store even had the fronts in stock, and they had the rears in a couple of days.

Not yet

120 MPH!!! You got a JATO rocket strapped to that thing?

ONe for the "real" license plate and one for the decorative plate?

Dave, are you trying to run up your post count? 3 duplicate posts? I just looked through the box of seals that I had ordered from Steele last year and, low and behold, there was the same seal that Bob showed. (Bob, what happened to your pics? All I get today is a Red X) I guess I ordered it from the list, even though I wasn't sure what it was for. I guess I'll have to grind off the rivit ends while the bars are detached from the glass, then glue the new rubber seals back on. It looks like that piece from Steele is enough for both division bars.

Bob, is that new piece the same depth as the old one? The one from Roberts would be the right size, but it isn't as deep. It wouldn't fully support the division bar past the vent window seal area. They sent plenty as well. They sell this as a "pair", enough to do both doors. What they sent was 2 sticks, 36 inches long each. There's enough to do 4 doors, with left overs. Their answer to that was... "some applications call for more, so that's why we send that much". The seal from Steele... how does it attach to the division bar? The original is rivited on. I have one division bar removed from the glass, and you can see the rivits from the inside. Merle

I'm wondering what others have used to referbish the Divider Bar channel that tracks the front of the roll up window. I purchased the Division Bar Channel from Roberts, but it isn't at all correct. When I informed them of this, I was told that's all that is available and if I didn't want it I could return it. From what's left of the original material, (can't get a good picture of it) I wonder if the fuzzy part of Velcro might be a suitable replacement. It can be bought in self adheasive strips that could be stuck to the sides. The bottom seems to be a strip of felt. Maybe I could find some at a craft store? Also, is there any replacement options for the seal on the window bar? I don't seem to see it listed anywhere. Any input is greatly appreciated. Merle

Hey Beau, just because your steering wheel in on the "right" side doesn't mean mine in on the "wrong" side. Left is right over here. How's this?

Looks like a nice addition to the family.

Are there any markings on your filter canister? Mine is a Deluxe and calls for a JC filter cartridge. This crosses to the Napa 1011 or Wix 51011. Napa filters are Wix, that's why the numbers are similar. Take a Wix number and drop the first digit and you have a Napa number. I agree that it's a tight fit. I thought it wouldn't go at first. I then oiled up the inside of the canister, and gave it a push and it went in. Merle

Thanks for the words of encouragement guys. There's a lot to do yet, but I think I can see a pin hole of light at the end of the tunnel. Let's see... off the top of my head... a list of things to do yet... 1. Install and wire up the lights 2. Dismount the tires, repaint the rims, mount new rubber 3. Clean, paint, and reassemble the seat cushions 4. Reinstall the gauges, glove box, and other misc cab items. 5. Install all new glass (excpet for the corner glass which gets reused) 6. Assemble the bed pieces, clean, repair as needed, paint, and assemble. (I just ordered up a bunch of parts from Mar-K) 7. If time permits before the WPC meet, install some interior panels, install my 6 - 12 volt convetor, and put on some break-in miles. All that with fewer weekends available for truck work, once this snow leaves and motorcycle season hits. But I'll keep pluggin' away. Merle

Ah Ha... a little extra circutry does the trick. So how do they look assembled in the lamp housings?

Yes Don, and it would also give proof that his Coupe can leave his driveway. Looking forward to it Norm. Greg, I use a gravity feed HVLP gun

Oops, ment to add that to the post. It's DuPont Imron 3.5 HG. It's basically the industrial Imron. They were able to match the color and it was cheaper than regular Imron. It tends to dry a little slower, but sets up hard and has a decent gloss.

Well, I'm getting there... What used to look like this Now looks like this. I spent the better part of this past weekend sanding and filling inperfections. I had layed down a couple good coats of primer last weekend, so this past Saturday I started block sanding it out with 220 grit. A little glazing putty helped fill the little dings that I found. Then I when everything looked smooth again, it got another coat of primer. Then Sunday I blocked that out with 400 grit and sprayed on the color. For those guys that have done the roller paint jobs... my hat goes off to you. I've come to realize that sanding SUCKS!! I don't even want to look at a sanding block for a while. Still a lot of work to go yet, but it's starting to look like something. Merle

Yes, Fireball. You can run 12 volt accessories in your 6 volt vehicle. They have an ampere limit, but as long as you're not trying to run a big stereo amp, you'll be fine. I got mine from Meyers Electronics for about the same price. http://www.pressenter.com/~cmeyer/