Merle Coggins

What is the condition of your battery cables? Is it a 12 volt system or 6 volt? Bad, or undersize, cables can cause a voltage drop during cranking that significantly reduces the capacity of your ignition system. After it finally starts, and the starter motor isn't pulling down the voltage, it will run just fine.

I have a later style synchro 4 speed that I would swap into my truck, if I ever find a FD input shaft for it. But for now I've got pretty used to the spur gear trans and double clutching.

The upper fender support was riveted to the fender and has been a source of contention for years. Moisture and crap tends to get in between the support and the fender and rot that area. Many repair as you have and then weld the support in place, eliminating the rivets. When I repaired mine I put carriage bolts back in to simulate the rivets, because I wanted to maintain the original look. They are more decorative than structural.

3 speeds are all synchronized. 4 speeds added synchros to 3rd and 4th in ‘51 or ‘52. External tell tales are the drain plug and PTO position. The synchronized 4 speeds have a horizontal drain plug instead of the angled one. And the PTO is behind the fill/level plug in stead of ahead of it, as it is on the crash boxes.

Use a Baldwin JC405 filter element. Don’t waste your money on the Wix/Napa version. You’d learn a whole new vocabulary trying to get them to fit.

The Wix/Napa sock filter is a bit over sized and is very difficult to insert into the canister. Baldwin’s JC405 is a MUCH better fit. I won’t use any other filter in mine.

@billrigsby That may be an earlier version of the Deluxe JC filter. The inner stuff looks the same, just a different bottom bowl.

At least the chute isn't pointed into the back of the hearse, like a tree trimmer's truck.

That should keep you out of trouble for a while.... or bankrupt you... ? ? Looks like a couple of good projects.

I agree... I've driven my truck down the interstate at 70+ on many occasions without any issues. I suspect that you have other issues. Is there any play in your king pins? Have you checked the tie rod ends, and/or drag link ends? Does your steering box need adjustment? What is the condition of your tires? (a bad tire can do what you describe) Have you checked/adjusted the toe in?

I agree. I use mine all the time as my truck has Fluid Drive. I've even tested it on some significant grades and it holds better than I expected.

I had shingles a few years ago in my right shoulder. It migrated all the way down my arm almost to my wrist. It got up close to my neck but didn’t quite get there. It was quite uncomfortable for a few weeks. Not fun, and yet I consider myself pretty lucky compared to some stories I’ve heard, including the ones here.

Sammy Haggar; “I Can’t Drive 55”. ? Actually, when I’m out cruising in the Ol’ Dodge I like to put ‘50’s on 5’ on the Sirius radio.

I experienced it once a few days ago, using Google Chrome on my Win10 computer. I had been reading threads and got back to the main page. One more thread came up as unread but I couldn’t open it. The top several threads on the list wouldn’t open when clicked on. I finally got one a few lines down that would open, then I scrolled to the bottom and selected “next unread thread” to get back to the one I wanted to read. Since then I haven’t experienced it again.

Fresh air can help defog the windows rather than recirculating the moist air within the cab.

When typing in your message, tap the “Add Files” button at the bottom of the text box, then select Photo Library. Select the photo you wish to add.

When I look at the markings on your picture I see that a wire from "the starter" is connected directly to the horns. This wire is likely a battery HOT and would power on the horns as soon as the battery is connected, as you mention. This wire should probably be connected to one of the relay terminals. The wire in your hand is labeled "to horn switch" on one end and "to ammeter" on the other end, which is also connected to the horns. This wire makes no sense to me. The other wires (unmarked) that are connected to the horns seem to connect together and are not connected to anything. I believe these wires to be the horn activation wires that should also be connected to one of the terminals on the relay. This "Y" wire assembly should be the ONLY wires connected to the horns. Your relay probably has 3 terminals. The 3rd terminal should be connected to the horn wire that goes into your steering column. I don't have a diagram of how your relay terminals are laid out, but most horn relays with 3 terminals have a power feed (battery hot), an output (horn wires), and a ground (to the horn button). I found this generic diagram on the web, but it should be very similar to your setup.

SWEET!!! I can't answer your question about how much of the cabs are the same as a "regular" truck, but the glass should be regular flat laminated glass. Any good glass shop should be able to cut a new piece using your old one as a pattern.

Looks good, but how will it work with a bumper on the front? Attach the bumper to the hood framework?

Ether I do or I don't... I'm Starting to thing it's a scam. ?

There should be a second adjustment slot under the distributor body.

I thought that too when I studied the photo. But I believe it's just a perspective thing due to the angle the photo was taken from.

Hotels with electrical outlets in the parking lot... sounds Ike northern Wisconsin and Michigan’s U.P. Except those are for plugging in your engine block heater. ?

Nice looking car. I like that it still has the original square headlights. On your distributor, it looks like the condenser wire rubbing on the points, possibly restricting their movement.

There has to be more economical ways to ship items across the border other than First Class mail. Although you may not get tracking on cheaper shipping options.