Merle Coggins

I've done that several times too. It works well. I've also seen a procedure for our flat head engines where you dunk the pump in oil and turn the pump by hand until it purges all air out of it. Then install it, with it full of oil. Apparently this is also sufficient for the pump to be able to pull up oil from the sump upon first startup.

I didn't realize there was a lowside bed option for the B-Series 3/4 ton trucks. I though it was only a 1/2 ton option. The 3/4, and 1 ton, beds are wider and don't need those removeable skirts for spring shackle maintenance. At least there isn't any on my highside bed.

I likely won't make it this year. I'm planning another trip to Back to the 50's this year. However, I do have big plans for next year...

There is a different front track that will need to be sourced and installed into the door. Then, after you remove the vent window you will need to cut out, or bend out of the way, two mounting tabs under the vent window.I believe the window regulators are the same. I’m not sure if the bottom glass brackets are interchangeable.

If they're a little wonky they'll better match their owner... 🤣

It seems that I remember that the ZF manual transmissions that Ford used in their Super Duty trucks called for ATF as well.

I would rabbit the bottom of the planks. It would be the easier option and nobody would know the difference.

Since the Fluid Drive is a fluid coupling, as you reference, there is no direct connection between the transmission and the engine. This is why you MUST have a working Parking Brake on FD equipped vehicles. If parked on a grade, even with the transmission in low gear, the vehicle will roll. At very low speeds there will be no power transfer through the Fluid Drive fluid coupler, which will allow the transmission to spin with very little resistance. When the engine is running the internal fins on the Impeller side of the FD will force the oil in the FD unit to transfer power to the Turbine side (output/clutch). The higher the RPM the more power will be transmitted through the FD.

When starting cold I give the pedal a couple of pumps, then step on the start pedal and crank it right up. When starting HOT I have found that it starts better with the throttle slightly open. I used to use the throttle knob for that purpose, then found it easier to use the throttle pedal. After a few 2 footed starts I learned to use my toe on the starter with my heal on the throttle pedal. Quick and easy hot starts that way.

Not seeing any paint on it yet. It left for paint a month ago... no progress yet?

You should be sure all 13 fasteners have been removed. That's the best way to know you have them all, count them. Those 3 that Bobacuda and JBNeal show are easily missed as they are a bit hidden. Also those 2 longer studs that go through the exhaust manifold, shown by Bobacuda, can sometimes bond themselves to the manifold. When this happens you'll have to work a bit to break that bond without breaking the manifold.

As I recall there's a metal sleeve inside the rubber mounts so that you can tighten the bolt and only squish the rubber so much.

Tight enough so that the cab won't fall off? I know that's a Smart @$$ answer, but generally when you don't have a specified torque published, just go with standard torque for that size fastener, such as this one. Torque-Tension Reference Guide.pdf

Unfortunately Apple doesn't seem to have a setting available to adjust photo file size. You would need a 3rd party app, like to resize them after the fact. Its a PITA. Another way would be to email them to yourself from the phone. Then it will ask you which file size you would like to send. That's another way to downsize the files from an Apple phone.

I have that same type of heater fan switch, as Los_Control posted earlier. It's essentially a rheostat to adjust the fan speed. Electric wipers was an option for the B-Series trucks, and was standard in the top cab trim package. (Deluxe or Custom... I always forget which was the top package) A parts truck that I picked up, while building mine, had the factory electric wiper motor. I pulled it, cleaned it up, and put it in my truck along with the wiper switch. The switch mounts in the same hole on top of the dash where the vacuum wiper control goes. The linkage arms and pivots are different than the vacuum wipers, so you need to switch it all to make it work. I ended up gifting my vacuum wiper setup to another forum member nearby that needed to put wipers in his truck.