knuckleharley

First there were rat bikes. Trust me on this one. Rat bikes weren't built as rat bikes. They,or at least mine,started off as nice,clean,chops. After a while riding becomes more important than polishing,and "stuff happens". Like getting drunk and taking it on a motorcross course for grins,running into the wall of a liquor store while trying to get there in a snowstorm before they closed at midnight because you are out of whiskey,and you forgot that brakes don't work in the snow,etc,etc,etc. Or just having your bike as your only transportation for a couple of years in Denver. They tend to get a little dirty in the winter.

P-15 business coupes have rear side glasses. It's the Dodge,DeSoto,and Chrysler business coupes that don't have rear side glasses. I may be wrong,but I suspect the business coupes and club coupes have the same wheelbases.

Hudson and Studebaker both had some truly beautiful art deco pickups in the mid-30's I saw a 35 or 36 at Charlotte once,and it looked like it was going 100 mph while parked. Correct restoration by a Stude Club member too,not a modified or hot rod.

I really like that produce truck parked inside a supermarket. Anybody know what it is? Or even if it is a real truck?

I would check to see if it turns over. I would look at it all over to see if it looked like an engine that had been hot tanked and painted,or just one that had been spray cleaned and painted. I'd run my finger up in the downdraft tube to see if it is clean. I'd pull the plugs and use a small light to see if the tops of the pistons looked clean. Most of all,if buying it from a private owner instead of a machine shop,I would just assume that it MIGHT just have new rings and bearings,and lapped valves. I have know a BUNCH of people would consider that to be a rebuilt engine,so they would tell you than and not even be lying in their own minds. Finally,without receipts from a machine shop to show proof it had been professionally rebuilt,I would only pay a "good used engine" price for it if all the checks I suggested went well. If you are going to pay big-buck machine shop prices for a rebuild engine,you should be paying them to the machine shop that did the rebuild,not a private owner unless he is one of your best friends and you KNOW it was professionally done by a reputable shop.

Uhhhhhh,yeah. Don't worry about it,though. I keep missing stuff,too. Must have gone back at least 50 times since I found that video to watch it again to see what I missed. Or maybe at my age it might be more correct to say I "miss what I see".

The way I see it,unlike rat rods they are preserving the old cars and most of the styling that attracted most of us to them from the beginning. I'm all for anything that preserves them and puts them out on the roads for people to see and admire. Driving them around as recognizable old cars is what will save the hobby from extinction and keep the cars from being banned from anything but parades. People LOVE to see old cars and trucks being driven around and enjoyed,and a lot of times it inspires some of them to look for their old "high school dream car" so they can join in on the fun. Nothing but win/win for all of us. If young people don't see and become interested in old cars,when we die the old ones we worked so hard to preserve will end up at the crusher,being sold by the pound. The market for 40's and 50's cars is already weakening as things like 70's and newer Mustangs and Camaros take over,so I see any public exposure the 20's to 50's cars to the younger generations as nothing but a good thing.

Right at the beginning,but then the babe in the window starts moving around,and the babes get out of the chebbie and start moving around,and I get a little confused.

Ok,what is it you don't like about that car?

That's what makes them low-riders. The fat chebbies of the late 30's and 40's are the most popular lowriders because they are "fat" and when lowered they give "the look". Many/most are basically restored cars with all the options,but lowered. I like them and always have. Lowriders have to be the only branch of the old car obsession that focuses on 4drs. Lots of old 4drs were saved from the crushers because of this trend,and not all of them became low-riders. The popularity of low-rider 4drs made restored and hot-rod 4drs popular,too. Check out the low-riders/fat cars in this Carlos Santan/Rob Thomas video. If you don't love that two-tone green 46-48 Chebby sedan in this video you need to quit pretending you like old cars,and move on to something else. The music ain't bad either,and frankly there are a couple of those girl dancers I still haven't gotten a good look at because I get a little dizzy every time I try. Especially the girl in the window. Oh,MY! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Whgn_iE5uc

What good is a gun turret without a couple of A6 Brownings sticking out of it? That has to be one of the weirdest things I have ever seen. The grille and hood trim look a lot like a 35 Ford. Can't imagine what they would have had to do to that chassis and suspension to handle the additional weight,and if they were still using mechanical brakes I bet it wasn't any fun trying to stop that thing. I can get scared just thinking about it.

Thanks! I didn't know that. I have always just assumed tempered glass and safety glass were the same thing.

What's not to like about P-15's or lathes?

Just at a glance,it's not hard to understand why you were blinded by beauty. It has happened to all of us. Some of us a lot more than once.

I would definitely check the timing chain while already having all that other stuff out of the way. Besides,when would be a better time to replace the old oil seal and gaskets in the timing cover? If it were me,I would also be temped to drop the oil pan and clean any sludge away from it and the oil pump screen. If you are changing the front motor mount bushings,now is also a good time to replace the rears. They have the same amount of years on them as the fronts,so why not do it now and have everything in perfect alignment so the car seems smoother? Do it and be done with it for another 40 or so years.

Don't know when Mopar started using it,but Ford started using it in 1928,IIRC. Henry Ford had a friend get involved in an accident and he went through the windshield,which pretty much shredded him,and it horrified Ford so much he insisted all Fords after that have laminated glass in the windows. I have read that Ford was the first to use it as a standard item,but that might not be right.

I stand corrected. There must be a half-dozen different big truck repair garages around here that re-arc tired springs,make new ones,etc,etc,etc. I just assumed it was that way everywhere,which proves once again it isn't safe to assume anything. BTW,I checked with J.C.Whitney,and they no longer carry the springs.

That doesn't mean repair shops that fix dump trucks won't have or can't get them.

Call around to local big truck repair garages. They don't really advertise it,but they re-arch and replace broken springs all the time. Nothing breaks springs like dump trucks. Or do what I did and check with J.C.Whitney. They had the cheapest prices on new springs and shackles when I needed rear springs for my P-15

If you have taken the oil pan off and cleaned it and the oil pump pickup screen,why not just start using modern 15-40w diesel detergent oil and not have this problem ever again? People sometimes get into trouble when they just change the oil in a old and neglected engine that maybe didn't get regular oil changes and was rarely ran long enough to get up to normal operation temperatures so the original oil would thin out,flow better,and fall to the bottom of the pan. If you have removed the pan and cleaned everything,you shouldn't have a problem. Do yourself a favor and use a good quality diesel 15/40 oil,though. This https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-112786-15W-40-Delvac-Super/dp/B001VXS1UG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503491613&sr=8-2&keywords=15w40+diesel+oil is what I always ran in my truck diesels and still use in my front end loader,and I can't say enough good things about it. I would still be using it if I hadn't switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 15-40 turbo diesel oil in my 06 GMC 2500 Duramax. That truck now has around 125,000 miles on it,and when I change the oil at 20k miles it is the same oil put in it at the previous oil change because I haven't had to add any. This included a round trip from NC to ND,and weighing in at a little over 19,000 lbs when I left ND to come back home,and put the cruise control on 75 and just let it eat. As far as I can tell,it didn't use or lose a drop of oil.and that oil change already had about 10k miles on it. My truck has the LBZ optional engine with 365 hp and 665 ft lbs of torque,and the new ones are now up to over 400 hp and 700 ft lbs of torque,regardless of if it is a GM,Ford,or Dodge. I have no idea why anyone needs that much hp and torque in a pu,but that's what they have now. If you have never pulled a trailer with a 3/4 ton or larger diesel truck,you will be shocked at the difference the first time you do. The larger brakes,the extra weight,and the heavier duty suspension make all the difference in the world. Add to that a low-RPM,low drama engine that just never quits pulling,and it's heaven on earth.

Something wrong with that link.

Sure they do. Or at least some of them do. The Motors Auto Repair Manual,for one.

You asked about Gremlims,but I'm going to give you opinions. IF *I* owned that car and lived in Vegas,the first thing I would do would be to replace EVERYTHING in it associated with the word "brake" with brand new,not rebuilt,parts. The second thing would be to paint it white or a pale "something" that doesn't have the words "Dark" or "black" on the can. The third thing I would be to drop it off at an upholstery shop and have that black seat dyed white or a pale color that goes with the new pale color on the outside. Or just have it recovered in a lighter color with a material that breathes.

Sorry,Windows 10 made that word into a hot link,not me. I didn't even notice it had happened until you asked me about it. My suggestion is to do a web search using the words "radiator repair" in your local area,and then call around to get estimates. If you don't care about losing the original brass and copper look,go on ebay or amazon and look up an aluminum Champion radiator.

Is your radiator missing,or just leaking? If you have one and the tanks are good,you can get a new core put installed on the tanks and save a bundle of money as long as you are willing to use modern cores. It starts to get pricey when you go for the honeycomb cores,though. This is assuming you are running a 6 cylinder flathead,of course. If you are running a modern V-8 you can put pretty much anything you want in the car.