knuckleharley

Those holes are open? They don't have plugs in them?

Yeah,but sometimes winter ain't enough. I'm not taking my 51 coupe off the road until I have everything I can think of that I will need to redo and put it back together again on hand,sitting in my shop floor. Including new chrome and glass. Already done all the brake,suspension,fuel system,and cooling system work to make it a safe and reliable driver,so I'm driving it until I have all that stuff. No more of that off and on crap. Do it and be done with it. I even have a brand new Auto Twirler rotisserie sitting there that hasn't even been put together yet. Caught them on sale and a buddy of mine wanted to buy one too,so we ordered them as one buy and save about 200 bucks each on shipping in addition to the sale price. Since I also have a 33 Plymouth coupe and a 42 Dodge coupe that will both need major lower body work,it wasn't hard to justify buying it. Even then I won't take it off the road until I get my 31 Plymouth coupe back on the road. Since I already have all the parts I need to do that and basically redoing the brakes and flushing out the fuel system is all it needs,that won't be a big deal.

You may be/probably are right about that. I've had problems with people stealing gas in the past,so I put locking gas caps on everything. I once bought a 71 Ford parts truck and was driving it around briefly while preparing the "real" truck for the updates. It was a 3/4 ton Camper Special with the reserve gas tank that has the manual switch on the floor by the driver. The gauge red full in both positions,so I didn't worry about running out of gas until I ran out of gas because no gas would come from the reserve tank. Got it back home and sure enough,it was full of gas. Well,gas with water,rust,and maybe a dead mouse or two. So I get a big pan,crawl under it,and take the hose off to drain the old gas out,and get nothing. It is so clogged up with rust and trash that even blowing into the tank with compressed air and from the outlet does nothing. So i just ignored it from that point. Then one day a friend of mine said he was looking for a reserve tank for his 72 Ford wrecker,so I told him he could have mine if he wanted to come around to siphon it out and remove it. Sure enough,someone had beaten him to it,and siphoned all the liquid out of it that he could get with a siphon hose. I only hope the thief poured it in a car or truck with fuel injection.

Not to mention inspire you to do more. They only become "real" once you can use them as actual cars or trucks. Prior to that they are just "projects",like the greenhouse or the pool you have planned for the backyard. Suddenly they are an ACTUAL CAR! Next will be the painful move of making it immobile again so you can do more work to it.

All the cosmetic stuff is nice,but driving it is what it is all about,IMHO.

All I can say is I had no problem using the gas cap I bought using the Stant part number on my 51 Ford,which requires a vented cap. I bought it last year,and it is a locking gas cap. I bought it from Amazon because I didn't want to make a 50 mile round trip to buy a gas cap,and they are cheaper anyhow,but where I bought it from is irrelevant because I ordered the same parts number.

It would have been ever easier to tell the guy at NAPA that you wanted a non-pressurized cap. I posted a list of Stant gas and radiator caps here from a 1955 catalog a while back,and I'm sure it's still here.

It would have been easier to have just bought a non-pressurized gas cap like originally came on your car. The EPA can't ban those caps.

Yeah,that's what always seems to happen when you discuss stuff with women. Best to avoid talking with them if at all possible. DO NOT fall into the trap of ignoring them while saying "Uh,huh,yes,of course" while hoping they just go away. BAD things will happen if you do.

Ahhhhh,that's southern for "die screaming in unbearable pain,you(&^%&!"

Not HIZ falt yew don't speak American.

Not trying to be a smart ass,but the best people to ask about that is Now and Then. I can tell you anything I want to tell you,but at the end of the day I'm not the guy giving you a warranty on the kit.

I don't think there is anyone who hasn't. They are VERY simple devices. I think I rebuilt my first one when I was around 14. 51 Plymouth I used to drive on the sand dunes and the beach. Paid 75 bucks for it. Just make sure you don't buy a NOS fuel pump rebuild kit because it will have the old diaphragm in it for real gas,and the ethanol will eat it up. Buy a modern fuel pump rebuild kit,and it will come with a modern diaphragm in it.

You need to start buying fuel pumps that are certified to work with ethanol. They use different diaphragms than the traditional fuel pumps. Same thing with carb kits with rubber or plastic parts. "NOS" ain't the way to go. Newly manufactured parts kits or parts are the way to go until this nightmare welfare program for corporate "farmers" ends. Assuming it ever ends,of course.

Your fuel pump may,or may not be bad,but your immediate problem is either your gas tank is full of trash and blocking the fuel line there,or your gas line from the tank to the fuel pump is stopped up with trash.. If you have compressed air,take the cap off of your gas tank,take the fuel line from the tank off at the fuel pump,and blow compressed air into the tank from the fuel pump end of the gas line. If you can't hear gas "bubbling" inside the tank when blowing air back to the tank,your gas line is clogged up,and the smart move it to just take it off,throw it away,and replace it with the new copper/nickel brake line. 25 Feet is around 25-30 dollars,and you will have a new clean fuel line that you know has no rust or trash in it,and it will never rust inside or out. You can even bend it with your hands and it won't kink. Best stuff ever for brake and gas lines. If you do hear air bubbling when blowing it back down the line to the tank,chances are you had trash blocking the line at the tank,and the compressed air blew it away. The bad news is it will come back,but wait until you are far from home before shutting the engine down so you have an expensive tow bill to pay. The smart thing to do is remove the fuel tank,throw a bunch of nuts and bolts in there,shake it around a bunch of times,and then blow all the trash out. If it were me,I would fill it half full of white vinegar and let it sit overnight,then turn it over and let it sit overnight again,and then pour the rust and vinegar out,flush the tank,and immediately coat the inside of the tank with a sealer guaranteed to stand up to ethanol use. While the tank is out,you might as well blast and paint the outside and the straps,and replace the insulation that goes between the straps and the tank that keeps it from rubbing and squeaking. Replace all your rubber gas line with new gas line rated for fuel injection use. Ethanol won't hurt it,but it will eat regular rubber gas lines like acid. If you have any inline gas filters,replace them with new ones rated for use with ethanol.

I appreciate the effort Frank,but the only one closer to me than 25 miles one way in the airport,and they won't let you drive up to the pumps. You have to walk maybe 100 feet carrying 5 gallon gas cans. Two is all they will let you fill any one trip. One local station used to carry "racing gas",but it was about 2 bucks a gallon higher than ethanol gas. I hate ethanol,but not that much.

BTW,are the British being abused with ethanol like we are? To think the same lunatics that are always screaming at us about the environment are also the idiots responsible for ethanol makes my head hurt.

And the wire from number 1 cylinder went to the number 1 cylinder post on the distributor cap? I have ran across a bunch of cars in the past that were wired up 180 degrees off.

Did you check to see if the distributor is mounted into the block correctly? The number 1 spot on the cap might not be the actual number 1 firing position.

Have you tried checking with your local military vehicle restoration club,or their supply sources? All of the WW-2 to 1960's 3/4 ton US military vehicles used these engines,and you might be able to find what you need locally and save a bunch of money. It was also PROBABLY used in some/most (?) the command cars,and probably some of the half-tracks and tanks,too. No doubt more than a few found their way into WW-2 British vehicles and boats.

I've bought two gas tanks from Tanks,Inc. One for my P-15 and one for my 51 Ford. I've been happy with both. Since I can stick my fist through the hole in the bottom of my 42 Dodge gas tank,I strongly suspect I will be buying another gas tank from them in the future.

It may be your first build,but you sure seem committed to it. No backing out at this point.

Ok,I agree that is a lot of money. I honestly can't figure out why it is so expensive. It's not a hard job or a complex setup,and if you are set up to do one engine,you can't pretty much do them all and only have to buy new cutters and hones,which can be used on multiple engines. Call around the local trade schools and community colleges and see what they say.

That homemade repair make look a little crude and rude,but there ain't no arguing with something that worked on a car that was probably being used as a daily driver at the time.

Can you give us an idea of what "so expensive" means? Line boring shouldn't be that expensive. It's not a difficult setup,and if you have the tooling,it's quick and easy to do compared to many other machining operations. Maybe you were quoted a high price because the machine shop didn't have the tooling,and have to buy it? If it were me,I'd call around a few machine shops within a day's drive of where I lived,and get some quotes. I'd probably start by talking to everybody I could find that drag races,drag boat races,or circle track races,and find out what shops they used. Beyond that,if you are on a budget and not in a hurry,contact your local community college auto repair class instructors and see if one of them will do it for you as a student project. That would be practically free. They need projects to teach students how to do things,so they only charge for materials. You might find one that can take it right away,but be prepared to wait months for a class cycle to get to the point where a project like that is needed. You really can't beat the price,though.