knuckleharley

Thanks. My first experience with outboards was a 3.5 HP Evinrude from the late 50's or early 60's,and even it was water-cooled. My best GUESS on the brakes is that with such a small pulley on such a small motor and what looks like it might be a large pulley on the axle,it didn't go that fast,anyhow. Leave the belt really loose,and it wouldn't be hard to stop. Still,with a little kid in it driving around on sidewalks on city streets,it looks like the builder would have put a handbrake of some sort on it,doesn't it? Then again,maybe it was an expensive step-son? <G>

i wonder how they kept it cool. Not to mention how they stopped it.

Probably,but it won't affect me. I will keep adjusting regulators until my lights stay bright without flickering at idle,and just keep on keeping on.

Wow! All that,and for only $1,000!

Not for me. I hate the ugly bastids and see no need for them in a old car that is original.

No big deal. Just pull out the choke a little if that is the case. If that IS the case,I would recommend adjusting the points in the voltage regulator to charge at idle. That way you aren't losing battery charges while sitting at stop lights,etc,etc,etc. This is especially true at night. The telltale is if your headlights dim at idle.

The quick and easy test for cars with generators is to remove a battery cable while it's running. If the engine stops,the generator is not charging. If it keeps running,the generator is charging.

I have seen no proof that either were anything other than programmed robots.

If the rest of it is as straight and rust free as what we can see,that sure looks like a winner to me! It even runs and drives,so you can do complete redo on the brake system and fuel system,and have a car you drive right away,not 2 years from now.

Those things used to be semi-popular at one time in the mid 50's to mid-60's. Never saw one being driven anywhere but in a parade,and am fairly sure it would illegal to drive on the road due to the confusion and panic that would result Judging from the wheels/hubcaps,that is a more modern version than 50's or 60's,though.

Some jealous petty little creature.

????? To whom is that addressed?

DOOD! REPLACE ALL THAT NEKKID WIRING OR BUY A REALLY GOOD FIRE EXTINGUISHER! That alone may lead to your car starting if your voltage regulator isn't fried. While rewiring it,remove the cover from the voltage regulator and use a emery board to clean the points Chances are those bare wires have gotten so hot they are crystallized,and will not pass any current. It is the equivalent of having a hot short.

I drove my 39 Ford tudor to Wal-Mart one day and parked it and went inside. Traditional 60's car with black paint,pinstripes,SBC engine,and slot mags. When I came back out there was a kid maybe 6 years old standing on my seat jerking on the steering wheel and making "vroom" noises,my hood was open, my trunk was open and the kids father was looking around inside the trunk. They both got told things they probably didn't want to hear,and both got looks on their faces like *I* was the one in the wrong. I was "THIS" close to beating knots on the father's head when it occurred to me this retard really didn't understand he had done anything wrong,so I asked the retard,"How would YOU like it if you came out of the store and found ME with YOUR car doors,trunk,and hood open,and me sifting through the things in YOUR car trunk?" The stupid SOB started to spit and sputter about how that would be different because his car was a "regular car",but I think the look in my eye may have caused him to give serious consideration to shutting up and getting the hell out of there. I think the thing that upset me the most was the message this retard was sending his son that other people had no private property rights,and that anything he did was acceptable because it was him doing it. What the hell is wrong with parents these days? One of the first lessons I remember learning as a kid was "If it is not your,you do NOT touch it without permission,PERIOD!",with the message "Or I will go upside your head" being left unsaid because it wasn't necessary to say it.

Going to take a LOT of Super Glue to put that one back together!

Sumbodie needs a flywheel ground flat.

I think there is a lot to be said for buying locally and being able to just go to the store for a replacement if it goes bad before the warranty ends. Plus it helps keep your "neighbors" employed,and they will still be there the next time you need them. Sometimes saving a few bucks can turn out to be counter-productive in the long run.

If Champion is that close to you,why not remove your radiator and take it to them to see if they can replicate the mounts,or just add a new core to your old tanks? Worse comes to worse,just buy a new aluminum radiator from them that fits while you are there and have your old one to show them.

I put a Champion aluminum radiator in one of my 51 Fords because a new copper and brass radiator for it was north of 800 bucks,and the new Champion aluminum radiator was right at 200 bucks. IIRC,I put a 3 or 4 psi radiator cap on it to be on the safe side. A higher pressure means it is less likely to run hot,but since I am running all this hot water through a heater.defrost system that is 70 years old and built for zero to 4 psi of pressure,I decided a low pressure cap was the safe way to go. I had previously ordered a "direct replacement copper and brass radiator" from US Radiator in California,paid 640 bucks for it,and waited 4 weeks for it to be built and shipped to me. This was for my 51 Ford 6 cylinder coupe,and I had called them on the phone and told them I wanted an EXACT replica of the original radiator,and was assured this was an exact replacement. When it came in a month later the bottom spout was wrong and dumped right into the fuel pump. I called US Radiator and talked to the guy about this,he told me I could send it back,wait 4 weeks plus the time it took to ship it to Ca,and he would send me another one. I did this,meaning I couldn't drive the car for two months,and when the new radiator came in the bottom outlet was right,but the filler neck was too short and too small for the original radiator cap to fit. When I called to complain about this,the guy laughed and told me."Oh,yeah. We switched over to a modern filler neck a while back to modern caps will fit it,and you can now run up to a 15 psi radiator cap on it." Which really pissed me off because I wanted to keep it looking "1950's",but wasn't about to repeat this process and wait another 4 to 6 weeks for another replacement,providing they could even replace it because it would have to be a special order to have the right neck. So I put it in the car,and will eventually have a radiator shop change the neck to the right one while running a low-pressure cap. I will NEVER buy anything from US Radiator in Ca again. If this interests you,contract Champion or one of the Champion dealers on ebay and see if they have a direct replacement radiator that will fit your car with no modifications,and order it.

I admit to being a little biased,having been a career US Army SF NCO,but a USMC Gunny is a mighty fine thing to be,too.

There is damn little on the body of a 42 that works on a 46-48. The hood and probably the trunk lid on coupes and the rear doors on a 4dr,but pretty much everything else on the exterior is 1942 only. I discovered this after buying the worlds rustiest 42 Dodge business coupe.

Yup. Don't worry about the I E I E business too much. Put the big valves in the big holes,and the little valves in the little holes.

Why can't you just bolt your new radiator to the front surface of the sheet metal instead of the rear surface,and use spacers or washers to space the radiator forward enough for clearance?

Had a whole dude thing going,didn't he? Having a new car and being able to dress like that in WVA in 1942 gave him good reason to smile.

She does look pretty excited. How did she deal with no power steering or brakes?