JBNeal

VINTAGEPIC: shiny work truck ...

nice work truck ...

VINTAGEPIC: Civil Defense motor pool ...

loading up another used car...

Those springs are to protect the tank flange by allowing movement when the frame flexes...jack one end of the frame rails at the rear of the truck up by a foot and you'll see the flex... I suggest filling the tank with gasoline and sealing off with tape and a plastic bag before tank installation...let it sit for a couple of weeks and see if it is seeping out. If no leaks, drain and install...if it leaks, have a pillow handy for all of the screaming

training in the old country...

VINTAGEPIC: hey look a canvas top

somewhere near Seattle...

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-series 3-window in town...

VINTAGEPIC: hey look a B-series panel !

somebody wanted to go fast...

everyone's happy in a Tucker Torpedo!

wellll allrighty then...

before there were interstate highways...

I thought my 20+ year old garage door opener had bit he dust, did some net research and spent 20 bucks on a new transmitter and receiver, problem solved...friend had problems with her opener, more research and a sawbuck for a new sprocket, problem solved...the 1976 Maytag was having probs, research gets me a part number that the local service ppl could not find, ironically enough the $20 part was sitting on the shelf behind the counter and that washing machine is still humming along...thought I needed a new starter for The Blue Bomber, did some research and Geno's had a repair kit for a fraction of the replacement starter that took minutes to install...the Outback blew a headgasket and I thought it was the end of the road for that buggy, did some research and found that it is possible to fix without pulling the engine or needing special tools, also found the non-chinese factory reman.part# for replacement half shafts that the dealer could not find, kept that buggy on the road for half the cost of original estimates for another 2 yrs before trading it in...and best of all, Dad bought a KenTool small tire changer years ago that had no instructions with the assortment of parts that came with it, we cussed at it a ton but could not figure the thing out so it sat in the corner of the barn for a decade, we need to put new tires on big mowers that we plan on keeping so I do research and find a factory how-to video on YouTube that demonstrates the usage of each part that came with it, I have since used that changer several dozen times for mowers, golf carts, ATVs, for ourselves and our neighbors, with very little colorful metaphors...that Al Gore sure did a good job with that internet that he invented

The most definitive answer will be found in parts books and interchange manuals, unless somebody on a Power Wagon forum has done the exact same swap as you are mulling over and has more technical information

Factory rims were Budd locking ring type...late 50s early 60s Dodge (maybe Ford and IHC) were drop center, non-locking ring type (modern) that might fit the hub, but brake clearance might be an issue...this has been cussed and discussed here every few months it seems like...maybe there's a video on the YouTube where a guy shows how to use a chain to seat the bead on a Power Wagon rim (HINT-HINT)

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/ might have a few things you need

additional information - Valve Guide Replacement

The shedded snake skin has the structural integrity of dandruff...live snakes that are skinned, well then ya got something useful thar that can be used to decorate tastefully

I went to verify a fuzzy memory about a problem I had a few years ago with the carburetor...as it turns out, I had a carb float pin lock that broke and had to improvise a fix as I did not have a spare in inventory. As luck would have it, I had a respirator mask nearby that was ready for the landfill and noticed that the flexible nose clamp might come in handy. Sure enough, the flexible aluminum strip was almost the perfect size to replace my broken float pin lock. So I finagled that strip into its new home, and as can be seen, it has not oxidized or failed in years... also seen was that one of my pest control representatives left some articles of clothing behind in the engine compartment

I recall having a float problem on one of my carbs that I struggled with for awhile...eventually I examined the float pin lock and found that it was not staying seated...when I tried to adjust that, it broke...not having any spares, I improvised with a modified Dr Pepper can pop top respirator mask nose clamp to wedge the float pin in place...problem solved

If it's like the B-series trucks, then the D-series wheel track will be a tad wide for the body

additional information - Rear Axle Seals

There are no listed torque specifications in the shop manual for rear wheel bearing adjustments...the shop manual is more specific, but the long and short of it is very similar to installation of all wheel bearings: not too tight, not too loose...additionally, adjust so that the lock washer dowel pin aligns with one of the washer holes