JBNeal

I was doing some research during another cold'n'rainy day and noticed some OT content on one of my build threads. Looking at four of my build threads, only one had content that stayed on topic, and two others had significant OT content. I have reached out in the past to participants when they went off the rails to remind them that they were going OT on my build thread, in each instance I was summarily blown off and told that was how the internet works. At any rate, the only way that I can see for a thread originator to control content on a build thread is to report posts, but I get the impression that is generally frowned upon as it puts a burden upon moderators on censoring members. Is reporting posts the only way to control content, or am I missing something?

additional information - Hood Lace Nails when I get to that part of the detail work, I plan on on putting a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on the twist nails (that I will attempt to salvage) to seal the cowl holes

I did one tractor pull at an antique tractor show with the '67 Farmall 1206 I had recently restored...no modifications, no weights, just bone stock on a muddy track...was 10 feet away from a full pull, something the modified tractors could not even do cuz the track was too wet, before I started to dig in and bounce the front tires...got a standing ovation from most of the crowd of 300 or so while I was unhooking...wasn't really interested in doing it before that day, haven't been interested since, only did it on a dare, got a free homemade ice cream cone for my efforts...I noticed the weight wasn't moving on the sled for the station wagon, and the 2 chvy diesels pooped out just after launch ?

During this rainy day, I was doing some follow-up research on universal joints that had been discussed earlier. The Cleveland type u-joints are not easy to find these days, though there are listings at Roberts, MoparMall and DCM. These units appear to fit, but the grease zerk is not as easily accessible as the original design, which was not a bike ride to get to either. I found a part number that grey beard had used, but my research looks like that economically priced u-joint is similar to the internal locked unit used earlier in post #25. So for now, I reckon the limits of our choices are to use a Cleveland-type u-joint that is difficult to lubricate or to use a modern u-joint that is "close enough"

Whenever the towing issue pops up on a vintage machine, I notice ppl overlook one thing: speed...these trucks were designed before the advent of the interstate highway system, and from what I've seen and heard, speed limits back then, in many locations, were much lower than today, somewhere in the 40mph range. This was done for safety reasons as bias ply tires and unboosted drum brakes were prominent. So the vintage machines could do the work, but not in any hurry...modern powertrains have more power (to go and to whoa), and are more stable with radial tires and robust suspensions. So whenever somebody wants modern performance with the retro look, then I recommend going with the body swap on the modern powertrain...the framework is proven, so grafting the body onto it is the real challenge, not engineering a powertrain into an antiquated framework

additional information - External Bypass vs Internal Bypass

additional information - Candle Wax Trick on Rusted Nuts

additional information - Brake Cylinder Sleeving

additional information - Fuel Line Routing + Insulation

I am on the side of replacing manifold studs and bolts as a set during a full engine rebuild...I've seen these corroded where there is pitting along the shanks, even though they were still useable...since exhaust fasteners see the most heat, any significant corrosion can lead to failure from yielding or fracturing, which is not good for manifold sealing. I have replaced individual studs and bolts on engine repairs, as inspection of stud and bolt surfaces showed no pitting or obvious signs of stretching, and those repairs lasted for over 10 years. In either case, the new studs and bolts were almost as rusty looking after several years of use as the originals, so it was hard to tell at a glance which were new and which were vintage

It's all about timing: the mechanical timing of the cam, the distributor and the crankshaft is crucial to develop maximum power during ignition...any variation of the timing will greatly reduce engine efficiency which may include termination of ignition...timing can be thought of as the foundation of engine power, as improper timing will result in vastly reduced power

That is timing chain cover related...not sure if all flatheads used the felt tho

The big flatheads in heavy duty trucks had two single bbl carbs and split exhaust for a reason...these trucks were not speed demons but needed to produce power at launch throughout the engine speed range...these carburetors were designed and adjusted to work well this way. And it's these adjustments that are key to making the dual induction work. With increased fuel consumption, fuel economy will begin to drop, but properly adjusted induction with increased exhaust will generate more power to the pavement. As a side note, I recently upgraded the exhaust on my Dodge Cummins from 3.5" to 4"...after several thousand miles, I could see that my economy had decreased by about 1 mpg, but passing at speed rarely required a downshift as putting my right foot into it motivated that beast very quickly...LOTS of fun that way

I did some testing on a Power Wagon PCV setup that was based on basically several technical service bulletins that are in the Downloads Section...there is a vacuum tube from the oil filler tube up to the base of the carburetor. Just plumbing a PCV valve from the draft tube port to the intake manifold stopped the exhaust fumes that leaked into the engine compartment from the draft tube, but some fumes would be visible from the oil filler neck filtered cap at shutdown.

I've seen a few members do this recently, and I recall seeing this on the HAMB back before it got overrun by crazy ppl: putting "Build Thread" in the title of their build thread. Since a sticky on the Links to Building Threads would require constant moderation of the thread itself, members can put "Build Thread" in the title of the thread that their major work is being shown...that phrase can be used in the search engine to produce a directory of sorts that does not require moderator oversight. I have edited my build threads to show this info in the titles to get the ball rolling...

Clean the oil pickup screen CAREFULLY

You will need to get the # from the top of the carb, as I have found on these old trucks that carbs were easy to swap out as an upgrade...with this manufacturer's number, you should be able to order a kit from a vendor found in the links directory of your choosing

Kinda sounds like your carb needs cleaning + a rebuild kit...

It is possible to have the side and back glass cut by a local auto glass company...I took mine out carefully, even the busted up side glass, and the local glass guy used them as templates to cut from the same glass that he uses to replace glass on big rigs. It worked great and was fairly economically priced

I am not familiar with the 2nd series designation, but do know that '54 thru early '55 cabs and doors were called C-1 and unique, and late '55 thru '56 cabs and doors were called C-3 and of a different configuration...the C-3 cabs were used in the Power Giant D-series, as well as heavy trucks into the early 70s. The C-3 doors were different than D-series doors in sheet metal, but the door glass is the same. So if you are ordering glass from a catalog, you want '54 ordering info only...'55 is too confusing, because of the mid-year change, anything after '55 or before '54 will not work, unless it's been incorrectly marked or warehoused

I think bologna lice Otto drives the school bus on The Simpsons... more charged air + exhaust flow will definitely improve the seat-of-the-pants feel when ya put your right foot into it, but I recall from anecdotal dyno-testing that getting 200hp squeezed out of these flatheads is wishful thinking...some folks have tried turbocharging, supercharging, fuel injection...a lot of resources to pour into an engine that will get a good WOW factor but will get blown away by faster revving, lighter weight engines...looking at larger truck heavy duty engines that had dual induction and dual exhaust, they were marketed for maximum power for pulling...later light duty flatheads had higher compression ratios and optional 2-bbl induction, so marketing was evolving towards more power in later years of flathead production, to compete with V8 sales. I have driven stock 218- and stock 230-powered trucks, and there is a difference in performance at the low end that favors the 230, but overall, that extra 12 cubic inches isn't much to write home about. The most bang for the buck is the dual exhaust, dual induction, shaved head to get 9-10:1 CR, electronic ignition...ODs and/or highway gearing for more speed (but maybe not better pulling power at lower speeds)...it's all a balancing act of how much $$$ do ya want to spend vs. how much performance do ya want...this was the reasoning behind the single induction/single output exhaust, as it was an economical and reliability marketing approach to engine sales

...and take care when cleaning decades of crud off of that thin screen as ham-fisted attempts can rip the screen out of the pickup head, requiring questionable improvisation techniques to repair ?

This appears to be the driver side setup...the passenger side should be a mirror image. It appears that the parts you ordered would be correct as they are mirror castings. Scanning the parts manual, part numbers for the support plates are different for left and right for 1/2 and 3/4 ton B-series...possibly done wrong at the factory, possibly "upgraded" by a previous repair...

additional information - Throttle Return Spring Installation

truck picture B-1-B-108: 3 days ago it was in the 80s...now I've got snow and sleet falling on the dandelions in the yahd... February in TX...LOVE IT