Adam H P15 D30

Those shock mounts will fatigue and oil can the floor in short order. Better to use a frame mount. Adam

I'm sure you will get a lot of advice and "what I would do" so this will be mine.... If you're good with a tape measure, carpenter's square and protractor. If the original frame is as good as it looks, clip it with the Dakota front end, install the springs and rear axle in the back, leave the rest of the Dakota frame for the scrappers. Much easier and the end result might look a little better.

Since I converted to 12 volts years ago, I gutted the old voltage regulator and added the fan relay in there (along with 2 others).

I put a 'T' in my heater hose connection. There is always flow through a 5/16 line warming the intake.

Mine kicks on at 185 off at 175. Many temps available though.

Old thread but I'll bite.... This is all you need plus a relay. Very reliable as almost all manufactures use them.

Try these people for your windshield. http://www.streetrodglass.com/classic_car_windshields_truck_auto.jsp Adam

I removed the rubber flap from the sheet metal disk you’re holding. Put the metal part back in and reassemble. Adam

It's a BIIIIGGGGG transmission, so cut your floors accordingly.

Mine was from a 91 or 92 Dakota 318 V8. The reason I suggest Quality Engineered Components for the adapter is my torque converter bolts were a pain in the a$$ with the Wilcap, much easier with QEC one, plus he can answer any HEMI questions you may have. http://www.qualityengineeredcomponents.com/ With your 276 HEMI, you do not have to do the internal mods I chose to do. I've been building transmissions for 25+ years so I can't leave them alone, lol. If you end up with a 2 wire A518 with lock up converter, that's perfectly fine. Several aftermarket places make very very simple kits for the lock up function. Adam EDIT: With a 276, I would also be on the lookout for an A500 O/D. Basically the 904 version instead of the 727 version the 518 is and smaller sized. It should handle anything your 276 will put out. Just make sure you get the correct bellhousing. These transmissions come with a .69 overdrive, so unless you're running short tires, I'd up the gear ratio to at the very least 3.73+ 1 more EDIT. Check your torque converter bolt circle. Make sure it matches the flexplate bolt circle, Ma Mopar had 2 bolt patterns for the torque converters.

Yeah, I’ve read his stuff before.

I prefer the electronic slant 6 distributor mod with an HEI module. Better dwell control and spark than a pertronics and if anything goes wrong, every parts store carries the stuff. Adam

@oldasdirt That may be true and 3 carbs might not be too much but it’s always better to be a little under carbed than over carbed on the street. Adam

I put a Dakota A518 behind my Chrysler HEMI with a Wilcap adapter, I think the adapters are the same. If I did it again I would've used Quality Engineered Components (Wayfarer here) adapter for a few specific reasons. I used a 92 Dakota 518 without converter lock up and put big block TF727 direct and forward drums in it, Changed the intermediate bad apply lever to a 4.6 ratio, put the early intermediate band piston in from the TF727. Did a few valve body mods and installed a home made restrictor in the front drum apply circuit. Easy trans to work on except for the O/D unit, need a press to get that apart. Nice thing about the early 518's is it only takes 1 switch for O/D, no other mods and you can use any 727 torque converter you want. Adam

That's the way my 49 is titled in CA, came with a title when I bought it. My 47 is titled off the body serial number by my choice because it didn't come with a title.

My Wayfarer does not have a damper but I also read somewhere that a lot of Fluid Drive cars didn't come with them, but who knows.

A lot of talk lately about the cr@ppy foreign made points on several forums. Even some on the most traditional forums are citing defeat and changing to electronic ignition. Adam

Sorry for the confusion, I think your master cylinder faces opposite of mine (forward) in your 39...

Rich, just curious, was it the residual pressure valve? Rubber flap thingy that goes in just before the back bolt? I’m probably not being clear, lol. Adam

I used a 30A relay to power my electronic ignition, and vacuum pump that activates with the ignition in the RUN position only. I used a second 30A relay that powers everything else on the ACC side of the ignition switch. ACC is also hot in RUN but not vise-versa. FWIW, Adam

It will bolt in. If the 49 has stock running gear, it is a Fluid Drive. If someone changed it to a standard clutch (non FD) use your D24 trans and FD unit. Both crankshafts should be 8 bolt but if the engine not original to the 49, who knows.... If you wish to keep it numbers matching, rebuild or store the stocker while you enjoy the car with the 49 engine in it. Adam

Paul, Mine had lock washers, no locktite. How come the overdrive isn't going in? Adam

It's a Midland Ross brake booster. can theoretically mount it anywhere and they are still available.

I do have to say those manifolds look really cool and kudos to you for casting your own!!! Hotrodding at its finest! 1 question, will the rear carb clear the firewall or heater box (if there is one)? The Carter/Webers are so tune-able that someone probably could get 3 to work well. Keep us updated on how this works out. I for one will be following. My home-made intake but not as cool as yours...

Langdon's Stovebolt has the Carter/Weber 32's originally used on the 1.6 and 1.8L Escorts. Work great in duals, I still think 3 is too much. Adam