JohnTeee

It's been a minute since I've been in my '47, but in it, that is either the cabin light (dome light if you have a hard roof) or the dash light. John

I have vague memory of there having been a cork gasket in there; sounds about right. At present, I have one that I made out of a thick piece of gasket material. John

As Sam and LosControl mentioned, the easy fix is the NPT fitting and a short length of fuel line. Admittedly, I could trim that line a little and cleaned up the pipe dope from the threads ... This is my new fuel tank, from vansautolic:

Sam beat me to it! I was going to post a link to: https://www.ebay.com/itm/403692350614 Bought one for my '47 P15 and it was a perfect drop-in. John

One of those things I've been needing to look for. I have one. John

Welcome! That's a nice car you've got. There's a ton of information on the website. Check out the downloads, ask questions and use the search function. Search can by augmented by using a Google site search: "site:p15-d24.com keyword keywords". You can throw in operators like "OR" - 'Plymouth OR Dodge'; "AND" - 'Radio AND Tube'; "*" - '* distributor' ; "( )" - (vibrator OR capacitor) radio. Cheers! John

Tennessee Clutch & Supply Inc Address: 1995 Nolensville Pk #113, Nashville, TN 37211 Hours: Open ⋅8:00AM Closes 4:30 PM Phone: (615) 242-4163 A good source to price shop for clutch and pressure plate. You can probably get a throw out and pilot bearing at many local auto parts stores. If you have a NAPA Auto Parts Store, they may be able to resurface for you.

Robin, your convertible should be in there! Wait, maybe you too! <grin> John

I have a convertible, so no rear package shelf. ? However, you're thinking modern autos with stereo systems and these were a monaural system, so could have had single speaker. John

9/16" Hood Bumper from Steele Rubber Products - https://www.steelerubber.com/hood-bumper-33-0395-42 5/8" Hood Corner Pad from Steele Rubber Products - https://www.steelerubber.com/hood-corner-pad-33-0117-42 Enter your P15 model in to be sure you have the correct parts - https://www.steelerubber.com Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts for the larger one, at a better price - https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts/c-interior-rubber/hood-bumpers/ Cheers! John P.S. Just looked at my P15 and there are three of the 5/8" down each side (total six) and one of the 9/16" on each side, up near the front (total 2). Mine are hard as a rock. I need to orders some of these too!

Nicely done! That may have to be a screen saver for a bit. Till the next bauble catches my eye. <grin> John

Dagnabit. Ain't anything ever easy! John

How about something like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/403940412255 I too am looking to upgrade my 6V light bulbs. John

@Sniper and @keithb7 thanks for all the good information. I've saved a lot of links for products for future reference. As I told Sniper in my thread, I'm going to start with the radiator and then see where it goes, though, I think a 6V Alternator upgrade might be good. Cheers! John

Thanks Sniper. I had seen that title and cruised right on by looking for one on radiator replacement. <grin>. Lots of good information and you did a nice conversion. I'm still on 6V, so will be dealing with a slightly different approach. I'll start with the radiator exchange and monitor. An upgrade to 6V alternator will probably be in her future and consideration for a fan of some sort. I also had not considered the outlet directions, compared to the original. Small work-around one way or the other there. I see that you put the Champion Radiator in. Unfortunately, as mentioned above, HUGE back-order going on with theirs. Maybe I can delay through the winter a bit and see if they come available. John

Working on an air medical helicopter, we were in Nomex flights suits and leather boots. Working 24 hours, down time was much like firefighters with naps, TV watching, cooking, etc., often stripped down to gym shorts and flight gear was often left at work for the next shift. One hot summer day, one of our medics loaded up the boots of of a co-worker with a packet of blue kool-aid in each boot. It ended up being a busy flying day and he was in his boots, sweating, all day long. Pulled his feet out to find them stained indelibly blue - he left for a beach vacation the next day. John

Just got on Champions website and found they are back ordered, 'Call for availability'. They currently have a 4 month backlog/call list of people wanting these! Supply chain issues, dontchaknow? Searched for "champion radiator CC4749" on ebay and found one from 'CUBAUTO' that, interestingly, uses a same Part #, "Manufacturer Part Number:4749, CC4749, CU4749, MC4749" and a similar price, that IS available. That might have to do, if I don't want to wait an unknown time on the 'Supply Chain'. ? John

Oi, nothing like a little challenge; you only have 4314 post to comb through. Still trying to find it. Any recollection of 'key words' in your title? ? I've searched "sniper champion radiator", "sniper AND champion AND radiator" and I've gone to your profile, clicked on your posts and tried wading through those. John

Newest fatality of not being run for years is the radiator. Took my original and a spare I had on the shelves to the local radiator shop. Neither one is usable. Rebuild with modern fins - $950 Rebuild with original honeycomb fins (send off) $2500 I'm looking at AB, aluminum radiator, drop in replacement, $325. Will require a different bottom hose. Many references in the P15-D24 Forum about Champion Radiators. I can live with not looking OEM and will probably settle for the aluminum. Any recommendations for Champion over AB? John

Merry Christmas from Southeast Missouri! We had a rare White Christmas this year. John

@Sniper Thanks!. I think that will serve for the immediate purposes of a working oil pump, and for only about $60 more than a rebuild kit. Then I can start disassembling the other two pumps at my leisure. One of those things I wanted a spare of on hand. Regardless, all work is stopped for the next week to go out to SoCal and see our new granddaughter and family. @Dodgeb4ya I was thinking along the lines of tearing the spare down, just to familiarize myself with the pump. May end up with a working spare, or wo. John

Quick update . . . Started out with the valve lapping tool from O'Reilly (two tools, four valve sizes) and was having such a lousy time getting it to stay stuck to the valve surface, I ended up making my own from a suction cup and a piece of heater hose. Worked much better and I returned the O'Reilly tool. Valves are all lapped and looking good. I'm working on a few other parts as I go. The installed front engine mount is in bad shape and I have a good spare that is going in. Repainting a spare front engine mount to put it in with. My newest concern, after reading the New oil pump seized thread and several other threads about oil pumps, was to double check oil pressure before I started putting things back together and tried starting the car. Head is still off, turned the ignition on, held the starter for several revs and watched the Oil Pressure Gauge. Nothing. To paraphrase the popular quote, "It had good oil pressure when I parked it . . ." I did just drain the pan, left it drained for several hours and went back and refilled it. Is there a chance my oil pump lost its prime? I've bookmarked the link from @Sniper for Freewheeling Smith goes through a flathead pump and the link from@JBNeal additional information - oil pump conditioning, for future reference, should I be tearing into the pump. As @soth122003 said, The longer you let them sit the more small problems start to appear. The problems, they are appearing! Barring any suggestions of, 'Did you try . . .' and I resort to a new/rebuilt oil pump. I could look for the rebuild parts for my existing pump, get a Melling M37 from O'Reilly, or a Sealed Power SEP 2244160 from NAPA. I don't have the machining capabilities that Freewheeling Smith has, but could do some disassembly/polishing following his lead. Just for grins, would it be worth trying to clean up and rebuild this spare, seized, oil pump? Thanks again for all the help. Cheers! John

Don't know the answer to the stock question or recall if mine came with it or I added on down the road. However, I did remember that it lived in Downloads and here it is: John

Two thoughts from my reading . . . How's your heat riser assembly? Could it be diverting heat all the time to your intake manifold. @keithb7 has a good video about this (just finished watching it, again) and you can search the forums. Oh. Also a good link in the reference section. Also, there is a heat shield for the fuel pump . . . I think wrapping the fuel line (picture foreground, left side) in foil tape. Cheers! John

When I worked on the valves several years ago, I used a regular feeler gauge set with straight blades. They are not destroyed when using them with the engine hot. Gotta watch that hot exhaust! I just picked up an inexpensive set from O'Reilly, with bent ends, that should make it much easier the next time I do it hot. Even helped a bit when setting them cold. John