JohnTeee

I am definitely learning my lesson: don't let cars sit! Getting out the other day, it was running a little rough, choking and sputtering when you tried to get above 35 MPH, or so, especially going up hill. Carb has been rebuilt, float level checked and rechecked. Put new points and condenser in, aiming at the rough running and seemed to have improvement there. Replaced the fuel pump (there was some sediment in the strainer bowl, but fuel looked basically clear), and went out to drive again. It's starting to buck at lower speeds. Opened the carb fuel bowl and the fuel is turbid looking; fuel in the pump bowl is also turbid looking. Adding gas treatment did not help. I'm afraid there's STILL crap in the tank. Guess now its time to drain the (FULL!!!) tank, drop it, give it a good rinse and start from scratch. Sigh. John

Dagnabit! And here I thought I was pulling a sneaky Google search!!! I definitely have liked older Alpha's MUCH better than that! Cheers! John

This appears to be it . . . Cheers! John

I was out and about for about an hour today. Car passed inspection . . . barely and its licensed again. Still running rough, but new points and condensor will go in tomorrow and I may try a different dist. cap. Found a new problem . . . when I start hitting above 40 MPH it starts choking and bucking like it's running out of gas. I think the fuel pump needs attention now! I have a spare on the shelf than I may try to throw in there and see what happens. Start looking for a rebuild kit. Radio came back from the shop and works well; needs a new vibrator in the near future - that sucker is loud. Put the clock back in after cleaning, but it still doesn't run. My 18 year old son got to drive a couple of miles in it and likes driving/shifting it better than my Honda FIT. (Click the picture no sound for some reason) Cheers! John

Mine's also a little sad. So . . . how many need a new knob? Cheers! John

I tried computer sex, once. I kept falling off the computer! Cheers! John

Love the sound of a radial. Nothing like it growling overhead! Cheers! John

Was there a 'factory turn signal' for the P15? I have a nice unit, installed on the column, with a chromed stem/ivory tip lever. It looks like the one at the bottom of the page (this if from David Maxwell's car) This is my turn signal lever: I'm taking to Kevin Carroll, who has molds and reproduced just about every molded piece of interior plastic found in the P15. It seems like I have a knob or two from him already. He has not done this particular knob, but is willing. Anyone else out there need this? With several takers, we can get the price down to around $50 + shipping.

Hi Rick, Welcome to the forum. I'll bet somebody jumps in with the correct answer anytime. The MOPAR 802 was correct for '46-early/mid '49, so an 803 sounds about right, to my uneducated mind. Cheers! John

My error. Still begs the question . . . Cheers! John

I've forgotten what year and model my FIAT was. Split Pea Green, early 70's, four door. I was young, dumb and it was affordable. A REPO by the local bank. That should have been my first clue. I suspect the folks who lost it knew it was going to be REPO'ed, didn't care, drove it hard and put it away wet. Turned into a money pit that I was glad to get rid of. I almost bough a 'Poor Man's Corvette', an Opal, before that. One headlight was stuck open. Took it out for a test drive and it got stuck in third gear. Limped back to the owner with it and promptly forgot about that idea. Would have been a fun classic today. Cheers! John

Got this from my dad: This has to be one of the neatest web sites whether you have gasoline in your veins or not. This is a web-site featuring the original factory brochures for nearly every American car you have ever owned. Pick the manufacturer, the year and the model. Enjoy! American Car Brochures (Of course, my first car was a FIAT . . .) Cheers! John

This headline has to tickle just a little bit . . . Coast Guard airlifts injured woman off Beaver Island Cheers! John

Just out of curiosity . . . are you driving a period correct car/engine?. I have not seen any mention of two things in this thread yet: Do you have the heat shield installed installed above your fuel pump? You can see it in this picture Don Coatney posted of his engine, between the exhaust manifold and the fuel pump. Lots of discussion about this in the forums. What condition is your heat riser in? A heat riser stuck in the 'cold' position, called 'Open' or 'Closed' depending on what you read, could certainly cause problems when the engine is at operating temperatures. You can see it right in the middle of the exhaust manifold in Bob Riding's 'engine porn'. It should rotate 90 degrees forward/clockwise when hot. And this internal picture from Dodgeb4ya: Lots of discussion on that too! Also a nice article on heat risers up front on the website, in the maintenance section. Cheers! John

Errr, I'm afraid that might be the one where you asked me about switching plug wires . . . Cheers! John

Got it all back together and fired it up. Still backfiring!!! No power, dragging down like the choke was on when I tried to drive up the hill and above about 20 MPH it really felt like the choke was on. Back to basics. Pulled the plugs and noted that Cylinders #1-#4 were tan; #5 & #6 were a little gray looking and the plugs seemed to be a bit oily. Checked cylinder compression and everything is good there. Better, actually. A couple years ago compression ran 90-100, mostly around 95. This time around I'm 105-120, mostly around 110. #2 after the bent valve had been down around 40. Pulled the distributor. Points are serviceable, but need to be replaced. Dressed them up a bit with a points file and set the gap. Vacuum advance functions correctly. Cleaned up the distributor cap and rotor and put it all back together. And the basic that did it . . . checked the plug wires against cap wiring diagram and connections and . . . BINGO! #5 & #6 were reversed. Not sure how the heck that happened, but it did. Put it all back together and it fires up INSTANTLY! No backfiring. Does not sound like it's missing like it had been. Timing is a wee bit retarded, about 5 degrees BTDC instead of 4. Acceleration causes advance; no vacuum gauge so don't know if it's dead on, or not. Dwell is coming in at 37 degrees. So, a wee tweak there. It sounds GOOD! I'm a happy camper. Would have been happier if it was not raining here and I could take it out for a test run. Hope for Wednesday or Thursday. Knew it was going to be something stupid/easy, and it was. Was just sure that switching two plug wires was NOT it. Sigh. Cheers! John

I don't read every single post; read what interests me. With "OT" in the subject line, I can continue to pick and choose. Have to lean in on the side of, "if it works, don't fix it". Cheers! John

It's there . . . . but didn't work. Dodge Power Wagon Wiring Diagram WM 300 Cheers! John

That sounds good Jim. I'm hoping I can get it running myself and not send it out if I can help it. I've seen quartz replacements for the guts, but, would like to keep it as original as I can. Cheers! John

Well, Round 2 Head is back on, first torque and all hardware bolted up, except for the thermostat housing. Get that back together tomorrow. Between using the flat washers and letting the paint on the head cure for a few extra days with heat, it came out much better the second time around. Got my hood back from the local guy who welded it for me. Pulled it off to make work on the engine easier and found broken spot welds on the front end of the brackets. Got them welded up and looking good for $50. It will go back on after we're done with the engine. Got my radio back from the local guy that works on tube stuff, so it will be nice to have it working again. I'm going to have to stock up on spare tubes and a vibrator (for the radio!). Was able to get a few parts out of my spare radio. One of these days, the spare will go in for FM conversion. Has anyone messed with the insides of the original clock in these old girls? Mine runs . . . after a fashion . . . not well actually. I suspect it needs YEARS of dust and sticky grease cleaned out. I was thinking about opening it up and taking some contact cleaner to it, maybe see if I can lube a few spots . . . Cheers! John

So, I'm waiting on pins and needles here. Want to know the end of this story. Does he buy the car or not? Oh, the agony of waiting . . . Cheers! John

Registered Nurse since 1982. I've been flying as a Helicopter Flight Nurse for over 20 years, flying full-time for something like the last 15 years. I'm leaning against an MBB BK-117 Helicopter. Cheers! John

Intake valve came in this morning. It was going to cost $12.49 + $8.00 shipping from NAPA. O'Reilly got it in for $11.49, no shipping charge. Yay! Pulled the head, pulled the bent valve, dropped the new valve in, lapped it, made cold valve setting for the new valve and I'm ready to put the head back on. Paint on the head got kind of chewed up putting the head bolts in the first time around. It's cleaned up and some more coats of paint going on - as the rain will allow. I'm thinking about putting some Grade 8 washers under the head bolts to keep from chewing up the paint. Found some references in other forum discussions about doing so and does not seem to be a problem. Get the paint dry, maybe with a little help from a heat gun and get Ryan to help me drop it back in place tomorrow or Monday. Onward. Cheers! John

They don't look 'correct' for you vehicle. I'll take the right side one off your hands to match the left side one I already have . . . Nice find! Cheers! John

And Now for Something Completely Different . . . Well, Off Topic anyway. Happy Thanksgiving fellow MoPar owners and Aficionados! Hope you and your's are well and about to enjoy the day. Cheers! John