JohnTeee

They don't look 'correct' for you vehicle. I'll take the right side one off your hands to match the left side one I already have . . . Nice find! Cheers! John

And Now for Something Completely Different . . . Well, Off Topic anyway. Happy Thanksgiving fellow MoPar owners and Aficionados! Hope you and your's are well and about to enjoy the day. Cheers! John

Permit requirements vary tremendously. I built out in the county and I had to get a $20 building permit. Since we were tied into city water, we had an inspection after completion to make sure that any spigots were anti-siphon. Had to have a perc test done for the septic system to get that system approved . . . and that was it. Did not HAVE to follow any code, get any other inspections. Have to make sure you won't back flow into the city water supply, but you could burn your house down through poor building practices. My brother in SoCal, on the other hand, has to have expensive permits and inspections at every stage of remodeling. Get caught out on something like wiring or plumbing not being inspected and you have finish work over it . . . you get to tear out the finish work. Cheers! John

So, anyone who has had that right, inner fender panel out to get at valves . . . are you guys saying that your panel was slotted on the end so it would slide back and out? Turns out mine had 3 elongated holes, that had two studs going through them into the bracket around the radiator. There was no sliding that panel out. I'm going to replace the studs with bolts and turn the holes into slots, so this will slide out easier next time. Guess I'm going to have to search the forums and see if there is anything to replace that little flap of material that was attached to that . . . Valve now won't be in till Saturday, but O'Reiley's is getting it in at just the cost of the valve, vs. NAPA who wants to add $8.00 UPS Freight! Cheers! John

As I mentioned in another post, some things it just does NOT pay to compete in . . . Cheers! John

I have a memory of seeing the news on TV . . . but it also seems like I should have been in 1st grade . . . Cheers! John

Here's what looks to be a great deal on a Plymouth Hood ornament on the Bay. $45 Buy It Now. Cheers! John

Marty, there are SOME things it just does not pay to compete in! I saw your picture in the thread that Don linked to. Did you get the same sick feeling that I did? My new valve should arrive on Wednesday. If I weren't working a 24H today, I would have the head/bad valve pulled and be ready to lap and drop the new one in. Should go fairly quickly Wednesday. On my first go-around, I had problems with the panel inside the right front fender. Could NOT get it to slide out as advertised. It remained attached at the top/front corner and sort of rolled the rest forward and out of the way to work on the valves. Finally figured out, with a little more investigation, that my panel apparently has a hole in the top/front corner, instead of a slot. There is a stud through the fender, said panel, inner-firewall (?) that mounts in the frame around the radiator. I'm tempted to take a vice-grip down between the radiator and grill and try to back the dang thing out and replace it with a bolt. Cheers! John

If only I had more money than I had sense . . . Cheers! John

That's great Robin. I wondered how things were going for you. That's a fine riding old girl you have there! Mighty big for those narrow streets, though. Cheers! John

Don, that sounds disgustingly familiar. Glad I'm not the ONLY bonehead!!! Should be quick work to change the single valve, now that I have a better idea what I'm doing. Thanks Don. Back to school! Back to school, to prove to Dad that I'm not a fool! John

I think I screwed up and bent a valve. Got the compression checker out to see how the engine looked after buttoning things up. Did not notice that the compression adapter had longer threads than the spark plugs do. And, perhaps, my brand new, Cylinder #2 Intake valve sits up a little higher than the old ones. Cylinder #1 was fine. Cylinder #2 I heard an audible 'BAP' when I cranked to test compression. Was not sure what it might have been until I went to remove the compression tester. Threads on the tester (brass, luckily) were galled and that thing was a bugger to get out. Fired it up afteward and it was running and idling fairly well, occasional backfires on start, but I kept thinking it did not sound quite like it was running on all six. Got the timing light out and set the timing to about 4 degrees BTDC. Vacuum advance seemed to be working right and I could see it advance counter-clockwise. So, problems I was experiencing: 1, On start, there is backfiring until it gets to running at an idle. 2. I could hear a tick-tick-tick from the tip of the exhaust pipe, but it was not really audible up front. 3. When I put a load on it (drive up the back driveway, it started missing and acting like the choke was on ( can look down the throat and see the butterfly valve vertical) 4. When I put a driving load on it, the sound of not running on all six is more pronounced and it tends to start choking and hesitating. 5. Compression on all cylinders had been between 90-98, this go around. No #2 has done a lot of bouncing and reads about 50 PSI. After some reading of the forums, and all the trouble I'd had from fuel before (it's fresh now) I got it good and warm and slowly added 16 oz of water through the carb, revving it to keep it going. It started and road tested a little bit better (well, just a little bit), but that did not fix it. I did just rebuild the carb, I'm open to other ideas, but I'm afraid it's the valve. It's a learning experience . . . It's a learning experience . . . John

Had some tappet noise at this point. Sounded a lot better after I got the valves adjusted, the valve covers on and air cleaner on. I tried to adjust valves while running, but it's not happening. Regular box wrenches, straight feeler gauge and part of the inner panel in my way . .. I adjusted hot. Cheers! John

Some people paint by numbers; I mechanic by the numbers! Cheers! John

A short video - It LIVES, Master!

Don, I owe you a cookie the next time I see you. If we don't forget . . . You aren't as slow as the other forum guys say you are!!! I took a triangle file to one of the head bolts to make a chaser for the head bolt holes. Three were setup as you described. Seems like someone mentioned in another thread that (original?) grounds were to one of these on the head? My ground is to the generator bracket frame. I think dads '48 is to the head. Cheers! John

Hi Bingster, I'm not self-insured and don't know if United Healthcare (my company provider) does self-insurance, but stay away from them. I've been seeing their advertisements on TV lately and how they are all about looking out for their insureds. **************! Just about every time we've seen our doc (same for physicals for several years) they always start out as treating it as an out of network visit (which it is not). I have had to stay on top of them for EVERY billing to make sure they don't screw it up - and guess whose favor it is screwed up in every time? Not mine. Just a heads up. Cheers! John

Here's a picture of my old head bolts. A cookie to the first person to find what's not right . . . Cheers! John

Randy, can you make do with W95? It's all I've got. I had several copies of W98 (including SE) . . . About two months ago I took a box of stuff to the Teen Challenge that I figured I'd never use again . . . Cheers! John

Funny, my dad sent this to me, too. Guess I'm showing my age, my score sucked! I'm too young to remember a lot of these cars (was not a big motorhead in my youth). Cheers! John

Nothing that I KNOW of . . . Just had been reading in the forums that it might be a good idea to replace them if you have the head off. Bolt stretching, etc. The last time this engine was really touched was before '60 or '61, so I was hoping to fend of future problems. I imagine going to have to rebuild ONE of these days . . . Cheers! John

Sounds like I should be alright where I am for the winter, but may want to revisit this in the summer. I don't run the ethanol fuels when I can avoid it; might be cheaper, but the mileage is much lower. Thanks all! Cheers! John

Randy, I might be able to help you with that. I think I have some old OS software laying around. Let me have a look. Interested in an alternative idea? Depending on what you are trying to do, have you considered installing a version of Linux. It runs with a lot less overhead than WinDoze, is free and contains software for images, word processing, spreadsheets, (will handle all the commercial file versions/extensions) etc. I'm Triple booting my NetBook with JoliCloud, Linux Mint and Windows XP. JoliCloud is for an older machine that is used to connect to the Intenet. Much of what it runs is 'in the cloud', rather than being dependent on the machines performance. Linux Mint is one of MANY versions of Linux available, at no charge. Is compatible with a lot of machines. You would probably have to have the Internet available for loading/updating . . . have not tried it on a machine without Internet. Cheers! John

Aha, that 'splains why that puppy didn't want to come out! Glad I didn't try to have my way with it. Cheers! John

Tried a couple of parts stores for the Chevy bolts referred to elseshere in the forums. Everyone seemed to have similar packages that contained a fixed number of bolts, some the needed size bolt and some other not needed sizes. I'll keep looking. Cheers! John