Frank Ollian

Yeah, whole different game with the manifold in the way.

Lots of good advise on removal of broken fasteners, here is something that has worked for me on those manifold studs. If they are broken off above the block surface try a stud remover, I got mine at sears several years ago. With a torch heat the block around the stud, dont' heat the stud, you want the block to expand and not the stud. While it is hot give it a shot of PJ Blaster, as it cools it will suck some of this up. Do several cycles of this over several days. When your ready to try removal heat the block around the stud again, don't heat the stud, use a breaker bar on the stud remover and apply a steady pressure, don't over do it, you don't want to break of whats left of the stud. If you don't get it to move a little, repeat the process, be patient and try again. Also it's your call on how much heat to apply, don't over do it if you don't have to.

One tons did not use vacume advance.

The original wheels do not have the drop center so if you weld the lock rings on you might not get a tire on it.

Nice dollies under those engines, hope you don't mind someone copying your design.

You might also try strip caulk, seals great and won't absorb moisture.

Thanks everyone for your response. Got a good chuckle from Don's as i was thinking of filtering the used vinegar and reusing it, no need for iron supplements if you make your deviled eggs with this.

Any metallurgist here? I tried this on an old head bolt, it worked great, took about a week. I'm wondering how this will affect the steel. Good idea or not? Should it be nuetralized? If so with what? I'm thinking of throwing the whole set of head bolts in, maybe other small parts, tail light brackets etc. Any reason not too? What do you guys think? I'm sure many of you have tried it.

Curved windshield makes it a 55 second series or a 56.

I would just rebuild your original carb, get it running and see what you have to work with. Get a base line, this way a new carb or intake won't complicate any tuning problems you may have. The kits don't cost too much and it's not too complicated. You may get lucky and it will run real sweet. Good luck.

Works well when you freeze the pinion yoke and heat the sleeve.

You might also try a good bicycle repair shop. Bikes use many different sizes of small ball bearings, bike shops order them in quantities of 25 or so, usually have them in stock.

Just my opinion, but I think a black pulley with a white timing mark shows up pretty well.

I kinda think they did make a tail gate with no script, I've got a 48 D with no script in the tail gate, appears original. Any one have an original with no script?

Fifties Ford ?

I've recently taken apart a few engines, a 218 and three 230's. They had a mixture of domed and flat exhaust valves, mostly domed. I think the domed exhaust valves are probably the originals, I'm thinking more meat there will handle the heat better. I also found a couple intake valves that where recessed or dished, is this what you get now if you order new valves? Frank

Great video. I didn't realize Autolite was such an industrial giant, 25,000 employees and did it all from raw material to finished product. High quality parts, not like the imported crap we have to put up with today.

Longer stroke, better torque.

One of my trucks, B1D has the factory stake bed. I have the stakes but not the hardware, I know the connectors are available new but I dont have the gate hinges and haven't seen this new any where. How does the gate work? Do you lift it out of the stake pockets and open? What is the solid piece, what is its function? How does it work? Thanks. Frank

I've been casting rubber parts using flexane and plaster molds, I've made pads, grommets, boots and pedal pads. Not hard to do but a little expensive, but if its a part you can't buy or you like the satisfaction of doing it your self it's a good way to kill some time. I've wanted to try doing some hard plastic lenses using silicone molds so thanks for posting this link. Silicone should be a better material for mold making, use the mold more times and probably a little more accurate, don't know if you can use it with urethane though. If anyone has done the silicone and plastic I would like to hear about it too. Thanks.

Pilot house doors on that trailer?

I've owned six Optimas, two failed, these could be charged to 12.5 volts and would lose charge down to about 11 volts. They were replaced at no charge. Optima has a procedure on their website for charging. I've also heard they moved production to Mexico and produced many bad batteries. Frank

One other thing not mentioned is in a lot of families now days there is no father present and so no male roll models to learn from and be encouraged by. All the young kids I know still love cars and machines, but as they grow they end up with video games and computers instead of an old beater car to learn on like most of us did. Never got to help for the first time with an oil change or tune up. Frank

Over the years some of these trucks may have wheels that are not the ones they came with. I have four B1D and B2D trucks, on the two that are dually all six wheels are the same, same offset and all six coined. On the two single wheel trucks all four wheels are the same, same offset and not coined, the offset is less than the dual wheels. I also have a 64 D300 dually, all six wheels are coined, all have the same offset. These wheels look like they should work on the earlier trucks and vise versa. I'm interested in what wheels and combinations where available, what is everyone else using? Thanks. Frank

Thanks for the heads up on the bearings. I was just getting set to find a set of Clevite main bearings, I ordered a set so you saved me around 100.00. At that price I feel like I should order another couple sets for future projects. Thanks again. Frank Ollian