Plymouthy Adams

unfortunately, you will have to either flush grind the roll of the rivet or drill it...with the mount from the body already cut it is ruined so drill or grind. You will go back with a replacement pin...don't expect to find these lying about willy nilly.....

my book did not state drum size only the length of the linging and being some 2+ inches extra lining length, I figured it would have had the larger drums....thanks for the info..going to pencil that into my margins

your call........I have never had a screw not come out with the method I described above and using my impact driver that is a 3/8 drive....

Phillips are in many standard sizes and tip profiles...the tip you would use will fill the cross in the Phillips head fully and snugly...this model door screw will use a blunt tip....profile is such as bottom bit...the sharp pointed tip above will be for smaller head screws you can look to e-bay for some models and pictures of these and while I do not push ebay for buying...I do recommend it for see what is out there and available...use this search... 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set

bummer...as my bud would say, easy come, easy go but never is it easy for me. I have a couple of those leather key holders here from different Chrysler dealerships. My lastest keycase was given to me still NIB. It is leatherette (grained vinyl) with gold lettering: SUNBEAM FINE CARS BY ROOTES

you would be wise to heat these screws a couple cycles with a good torch to help disintegrate the rust and then use an impact driver to break them loose using the proper bit that will fit snugly in the Phillips head of the screw. Numerous companies make these, they are reversible, ensure you have it oriented correctly by twisting and locking the mechanism in the direction you wish to turn the screw. These last a lifetime...still using mine after 45 years.

but only after the lawn mower found them first when mulching leaves...guess they dropped onto the lawn when digging the Tiger keys out when playing musical cars...thankfully I was able to locate the two of three pieces needed to duplicate....my blank keys arrived this morning and so I ventured to the shop and got out my key cutter and processed keys for three sets. I so hate losing the original aluminum DPCD logo...but I did cut a signet key for the doors and ignition.

Thumbing through a folder and I came across the pic of a spindle nut I referred to in one of the posts that I wish the nuts on the Plymouth were as simple as these....a picture to show the manner of locking nut I was referring to.....

The spare is in a curtained compartment behind the driver...there is a locking compartment behind the passenger.

my book shows the Saratoga having 2" wide linings at 3/16 thick...

TV...in the shop....??? Well I guess I am guilty, as I got a 32" for free and connected my DVD player I had spare to it, put it in place and put a cover over it and that is where you will find it today....not in use at all....only viewed it to test the setup. Now stereo...that is all I need and the only clock I need is in the paint booth for timing the flash between coats. The paint booth was used for the longest time as overflow storage as I remodeled a bit in the house...I have the two commercial sewing machines now moved to the room above the garage and I am out there now and almost got it back to where I can drive in a car again and do some paint spraying. Objective is to try to have this end of the shop cleaned and operational by the weekend.

I cut the extra hole as aligned with the new service location for the sender. The original cover is in place and the wiring routes as normal there but the new hole cover is merely a 4 x 4 electrical handy-box cover with the preformed (raised) 3 inch opening for large outlets that I then welded a section of a metal over to enclose it. The raised section of the handy-box cover provides sufficient room for the electrical terminals. Just a quick means to cover the access without a whole lot of fabrication by using a ready made item. Will be covered by carpet so no one is the wiser. Might work for you also.

I have the original tank in my vehicle but did make a cradle just the same for install. Reason for the cradle was to relocate the tank to the center of the car body utilizing original mount holes thus changing the offset so I could install dual exhaust. Being a business coupe and flat floor, this was easily done. As for the cradle...this may or may not give you an idea of what it may need.

that rings true today, maybe not so much the car...bur for certain the drivers...

yes, but say you had to drive that car one day for 700-1000 miles....it's doable....the power grid in America is not set up for the total electric highways at the rate of daily travel on the roads that is per day...we would have a grid melt down....and how in the world green will support green...while changing..it is not changing fast enough for the goals and targets placed on public and manufacturering. It will I guess get there either by force or failure to supply...

had to crunch him over to another picture format.....

too much and maybe damage your seal...at the point you are now with noise, the failure is in motion....just biding your time right now,.

no one mentioned green grass or for that matter the yard on fire.....dried leaves set the tractor on fire at the exhaust manifold...due to the dry spell and abundance of pecan trees, as many leaves being pushed ahead of the mower as being mulched by the blades.....slow, ! you would have a hard time keeping up the zero turn running wide open...The black walnut has already dropped its leaves also and the nut harvest was a good year.

mulching leaves today, we had been dry for about 6 weeks and the pecans shed early due to that...while mulching, some leaves pushed up under the engine and caught on fire...had a bottle of water handy...doused the flame and drove to the facet and hose and washed it down...of all the years I have been doing this, this is a fire-st mower is fine and yard look so much better.

my question to you is did you order/buy your tune up parts based on year of car or as you should have, by the part number of the distributor. Over the years it is not at all strange or unusual to have distributors changed, thus the NEED to buy by distributor over make and model.

40 was the last year for the basic run before change in 41 to other gearing....the 36 - 40 list the same ratios but as stated by me on the other thread started by the OP there are other options....with a fast first and second and reverse ratio

I totally understand and respect your opinion....but I am still puzzled the why of a floor cut with a master that is not a Wilwood....many donors can be had that are not integral reservoirs. These are easily adapted and cost effective units and the only difference would in my opinion be the home-grown adapter that would need be fabricated. So if floor cut is what is putting you off on a possible later model Mopar (other brand) cylinder...that technically should not be an issue/concern. These later masters come in a variety of bores for to tailor your 'applied' foot pressure. It is only the concern of having to buy (mail order) from a sole source that puts me off Wilwood and some other folks who do not list source as it is/may be a proprietary item..

that extra 100.00 would go a long way with buying parts for other systems/needs for the vehicle and while you can order the rebuild kits for these, they are some double the cost and only available from them. Whereas other brands listed here are OTC assemblies and repair kits and could mean the difference between stranded offsite and laid up a day or say awaiting parts. This is more important to me, RM&A is everything when building and is always the deciding factor for myself. If you do not plan to take the car away from home then I can see where parts availability may not be an issue.

In my opinion the cylinder with integral reservoir was for that reason the why I chose not to go in that direction but strike out and locate a more suitable master for my needs and fabricate the setup I have installed. I do not nor wish ever to service through the floorboard any master cylinder. Others may not see this an issue but others may not have the carpet installed as I do and prior to this upgrade and before the carpet even my original master I made remote fill. Again, this is not that hard of a task retrofitting, but I think by your descriptor of what you do not like, you have greatly narrowed your options. While the integral master/reservoir can be adapted for remote fill, that often entails yet need for a tad more room between the master and floorboard.

the gear ratio for the S10 smaller truck is by design geared in first and second to get you rolling and up to speed with the often equipped smaller anemic engines of the S10 when at load. You will have the similar experience with the flathead if you get too tall in 1st and second via the close ratio gear sets...3-5 gear ratio is often the same or so close to the close ratio transmission you will effectively be the same with the truck wide ratio in the top 3 gears. Many find the truck ratio effective just for this reason.