Plymouthy Adams

while weather is out of our control...and the fact that the forecasters are not how we say 'on the nose' trying to work within the predictions do help out for those that garden and what not. Even jockeying cars about from storage to work area is largely governed by weather, at least, for me. Weather is like time.....to me wherever I am and whatever I am doing, I am always on time....gotta love being retired....except, often you gotta be a bit older than you wish to take advantage of it.

cannot answer if in the wrong place, but, you never stated what you are building here. There is little chance of finding a direct bolt in type engine swap for these old puppies. For every mod needed you will likely have to do three more mods that affect other parts of the build for the first part to interact correctly. Your line in the sand on the build will ever be moving. And while I have done a few swaps I would never try in any manner dictate to another person to follow what I did. Each of us have our own set of skill, tools and space to work in. These three are paramount and even with that...I would recommend you set your build down on paper and then NOT stray from the build or make running changes....you will be forever backing up and apt to take the vehicle in a direction that you cannot recover from in means of time, money and function. For me there is a bit more than just upgrading an engine, chassis mods and braking are two important factors one must address also not to mention added creature comforts. You will end up wanting the total package. Also the more modern donor you address the more likely you are going to encounter electronic issues you must be able to adapt.

no matter the weather, no matter the location....someone somewhere is not going to be happy....this prediction is about as 100% as you can get.

trunions are usually threaded onto the top and bottom of the upright and are situated in a manner that they actually rotate the upright by incline plane when the upper/lower arms are stationary held in place by a locating pin. At least this is how it is my cars that have the true trunions affixed in place.

looking at my set here at the house the spindles are what is altered in the set up....odds are you will need kingpins and bushing at the same time to do the job right and likely a good idea to renew the a-arm bushings....in other words work the unit right.

at one time these were available but I also recall reading something about the shop has closed their doors. Look to e-bay or post a wanted ad here on the forum.

I guess it is the carry over dinosaur gene that is common still my generation, but I see majority of the stuff on cars today dumb down drivers that allow them to focus on a warning beep instead of their own driving skills being honed by being attentive to all conditions. Bells and whistles should stay with the clowns at the 3 ring circus...typically not center ring either. Some features are nice...but as I mention, many now growing fully dependent on them. Back in the old days only one distraction, the carrot hanging in front of the mule's nose.

one of the most hated words to me.....proprietary

it seems to have piqued your interest, go for it,,,,most that can go wrong is you tire of it and pass it forward. You only get one bite at the apple....good luck

I moved some 30 years ago and I happened to be back int he area and drove by the shoe repair place and it reminded me that I left a pair of shoes there just before I moved. Odd chance but what the heck, stopped in and inquired of my shoes, they will be ready next Tuesday

a VOM will tell you all you need to know of the relay......do you have one, they are indispensable for electrical work.

get something heavy enough for the task....6 of these available at the minute (3 sets of 2) Pair of 2 Amish forged black wrought iron wall J hooks metal 1 7/16" tall x1 1/4 | eBay

I remember cutting the donor firewall down to the proper size to fit the 48 and STILL be able to use all the components of the donor including the AC, suspension grafted to the original frame, steering column, ABS brakes etc.....you pictures bring back lots of memories.

from the image I saw of the rust and corrosion it is no surprise that you are experiencing issue with voltage and grounds.

I believe they have comingled two style of lamps on this thread now.....

did you remove the bulb to see if you can find the number that is usually on the backside of the bulb....the 4 5/8 is typical to Guide and often even can be located at tractor supply for a clear driving light or red for stop....yellow not so common at the tractor places.

unit is marked on the glass as a sealed beam..you will replace the burn out unit with a new unit...

is your manual the one published originally by Chrysler? Chilton's usually don't cut it...a Motors of the era however is often beneficial to have on hand. The factory service manual is in reprint and not a bad cost overall.

lost compression but did you read each cylinder......did you do a dry and then a wet test.....as for the valves, could be they moving up and down but still not closing....the removal of the head would be most beneficial in reading the worthiness of the engine.

I serious doubt any rear axle will be large enough of a carrier housing to allow a tooth count that great in number for the strength needed for the rear axle...size would be HUGE....and teeth count in a fine mesh to fit the housing, rip out on the first dump of the clutch. IF you continue with the metric system and circumference of the gears...big circle into little circle., this is what I think is going on here....the tooth count is missing and only diameter is being used.

while specs say it will turn as small as a 6" drum...I believe it...these are 7" for my Morris Minor rear brakes and are the better factory MOWOG brand. I cleaned these up today and am pleased. I upgraded to MG Midget front discs and did away with the factory 8" drums.

Hard to beat a gantry crane, I built this from some metal at the wrecking yard that was less than 50.00, the upright metal were already on hand as was the chain fall and the trolly....need and use....not as much as one would think but it was a most fun project if nothing else. With nuts bolts paint and couple chunks of metal from the falloff bin at the machine shop, little at home welding...think total outlay less that 100.00 The casters I removed at no cost from a tossed industrial item long ago. Pays to save some items for the future.

I did this with my first conversion to V8 and automatic....running dual exhaust and crossover tube.....single pull using stock handle and cable...rest is home grown. The pulleys for the cables are also ball bearing type to ease in the pull....works great.

surely the seller can answer that question for you.....

personally I prefer the later model Dakota single pull on the drivers side of the chassis and the combo engagement lever that then splits to each wheel at the rear. Cleaner setup with less likelihood of exhaust interference when running cables especially if you wish to run dual exhaust.