Plymouthy Adams

This is another area that causes lots of confusion and disgust. There are those out there that have the vacuum wipers refurbed, some have added reservoirs and all swear they are very much functional today. Then there are those who have upgraded and put later electric wipers on and as you did not state if it is a Plymouth using the Dodge or Dodge to Dodge..chances are the lengths of the rods is just enough to cause it to bind in over extension and pop off. I am thinking the Dodge is a bid wider than the Plymouths and even the 51 is not the same width as the earleir models.

I have not missed a Moutrie event in years....I often times get lucky there but it is predominately Chevy and Ford..twangs and maro's and a few truck as this is the south.

That truck would be a lot sleeker looking IMHO if the grille was a bit more forward and sloping down to the front axle..as it is..looks like Galion roadgrader.

Darin..the solid state device you show appears just to be a zener diode.. This is the picture of the one I put together..

been there and done that...parents don't change much over the years...

either of these may work...

I am thinking you have a set screw on the bottom of the hole it slides into and accessable from below the dash..

knighthawk..rebuilding a ring gear is not that common..if the car was servicalbe prior to being swapped and not stored out in the weather and got water internally..chances are all is well..go online and you should be able to find the bolt pattern for each model..the shape are very similar but the bolt placement and number of bolts vary..I cannot recall from memory which was which..I looked it up for meyself when i used the 5th Ave I had for donor parts..that is how I knew my car was a 7 1/4 and 2.32 rear gears..

That bolt on plate for inspection, screen cleaning out to be a give away..I am not familar with it though...lots of pans have the dip stick built in..continued practice way into the 70's as I have a 383 truck pan (rear sump) on the big block in the 41 Dodge ..also it is a 6 quart pan..

nla

knighthawk..the rear cover on the differential is the surest method to identify a 7 1/4, 8 1/4 and the 9 1/4...all were available in that time frame but the 9 1/4 was primary trucks...my 9 1/4 2.88 posi came out of a 79 Police Interceptor. If you can find one of these cars..you get all kinds of special performance parts..power steering cooler, aux tranny cooler, rear sway bar..larger brakes...nice steel wheels...and the tranny is built heavier from the factory and first gear is manually locked out...(removable device) guess this kept the NYC police from doing any back alley racing...

Mike..you are right..he SHOULD have an 8 1/4 being a V8..the one I parted out did not and was a 7 1/4 though it was a V8 also..the following is from ALLPAR....applicable to all M bodied cars.. Available transmissions included the A230 3 speed (Slant Six only), the A833 4 speed overdrive (Slant Six and 318-2 only), and the A904 and A998/999 Torqueflite 3 speed automatics. These were coupled with either the Chrysler 7 1/4 inch rear axle (for Slant Six coupe and sedan, non-towing applications) or the Chrysler 8 1/4 axle for the wagon, heavy duty, and V8 versions. Axles were available in 2.45, 2.76, 2.94, and 3.23 to 1 ratios, depending upon transmission and engine. Sure-Grip limited slip axles were optional. Torqueflites got a lockup torque converter in 1978 for non-heavy duty engines. Police Package Diplomats with the 360 V8 were equipped with the virtually indestructible 727 transmission.

Darin...in reality that particular reducer is not much good for light loads the guage will represent..that is designed for heater motors and such...even at that when first energized it still spikes the voltage and as such the motor can handle that so no big deal. The body of the resistor is just a mount and should be no electrical contact to the car...battery in on one side and load (device) connected to the other...your sending unit should be grounded in the following manner due to age, corrosion and such over all the years...this will provide a solid ground and should remove all doubt..get a small thin piece of copper or brass material..say about 3/8 wide and about maybe about an inch long, approx. .010 inch thick and drill a hole in each end..place the gasket on the tank mounting flange..then one end of the strap..then place the sending unit in so that the main lower body contacts the strap, curve the other end of the strap to contact the upper plate of the sender and attach an aux ground strap here and run to know good clean body ground. In the schematic above, the picture of the guage at the bottom left says CONTACT..this is the internal switching contacts on the bi-metal that regulates the input to 5 volts..reading under operation explain how it works. This is why they can work on 12 volts..the contacts open and close at a faster rate than on 6 volts..but even on 6 volts they are constantly are opening and closing..that is why the guage moves in small increments when you first turn it on. If you do not have a good Volt/Ohm meter by now..do yourself a favor and do get one..they are not expensive anymore and are worth thier weight in gold when doing electrical work and trouble shooting.. I will be running mine on 6.2 volts steady regualted DC with a device I built that will handle 12 AMP load..size of a golf ball and toatally adjustable output..can handle a direct short and fold so as to prevent burn out. I would recommend that you find such a device for yourself..and save the other resistor for a wiper motor, heater or such as that. It really is not instrument grade device.

most excellent..this will be such a big help..sometimes when welding, the glasses get fogged up and it is a pure T mightmare and takes a lot of fun out working on the hoopie.

James..the 100, 150 and 200 is that by chane 1.00 1.50 and 2.00 dioptics? I'd be interested in then.. Fred... I also use a pair of 1.50 dioptic reading glass behind my goggles when I weld..could be very well a slight flash burn if your timing is a bit off striking an arc before/as yu close the lens or lift a bit early or should you have a light leak at the side..my self-darkening helment has all but cured those ailments.. Flash burns are no fun at all and have had more than my share, most when not welding..

After having owned a completely stock 49 Plymouth with stock 218 flattie, standard tranny, and 3.9 rear gear...I can say that I will not own another...thre are so many other combinations that make these car more at home on the highway and me happier behind the wheel..I will say though I am happy with my 230 flattie with automatic tranny and 3.73 rear gear...the difference in driveability is like night and day..

Ed..I remember them..I was around a couple of the Colt RS twin sticks..them little things were a trip..excellent parking lot racers...I have pics somewhere of a very elderly gentleman doing some motorcrossing while in Illionis..made plenty of rear wheel lifts while on the course..fun to watch..

knighthawk..the Omni's I spoke of were GLH models, both with Turbochargers and 5 speed trannies..(earlier GLH was just a trim package)..the lettering GLH was for Goes Like Hell and by golly I guarantee you..you were not disappointed..it was the only car I ever owned that the cops would turn around and follow..only reason I sold the car...it was truly a fun car to drive.

Thanks Norm...this way we all know the why and wherefore and he can be prepared for possible further costs...sad to say but once you start to alter a few things..more and more little annoyances keep popping up...later model rims will do the trick but will limit his use of original style 9/10 caps and rings. I used a set of Chrysler late model rims with the bolt on wire baskets on my 49 and loved it..when I sold the car the new owner was given the choice of original with caps and rings or the wire caps..he took the wires as he loved the way they looked also..his wife stated that the grandkids saw the pictures of the car they were coming to look at and and said, "Grandma..be sure to get the fuzzy dice and the squirrel tail on the aerial"...they got both..they sent me a picture of the car in parade just 3 days after picking it up..glad it went to a nice home...

believe you will find most all of the big 3 having that same top speed indicated..not that it would not run that fast..they were telling you in a round about way of your own thinking that if I were to speed above that MPH I will do harm to the car...it was a trend to reduce speed, saving fuel an lives on the highway I think. The 86 Omni GLH I owned also had this low MPH speedo..however it was not top end pegged so would do a wrap around...look at one and tell me what you think your speed is when it comes back around to indicate 25 miles per hours again...my buddy can tell you this...when an Omni GLH leaves the road at 25 indicated second time that 2 end to end flips and 4 rolls is not uncommon..amazing but he opened the door and walked away..

one more item..I have a little song and dance I do hooking up the rear emergency brakes that allows use of the original brake handle and cable in the front and connection to the rear brakes through a unit easily fabricated and connects through donor cable and I can supply a set of bearing rollers to guide the cables and set the angle to center of the car...it does not take very long to do start to finish..have done two and have two more to do later.

Knighthawk..with the entire drivetrain transplant of the 5th Ave..you will have the exact driving power of the donor...the rear gear should be a 2.32 ratio..7 1/4 ring gear..not a lot of meat and if you drive it normal will not be any problem..However if your intentions are to up the power in the V8 and do some really hard starts...or live in some hilly terrain, then a different ratio will be best for you. In addition, if you were to get a later model A500 4 speed OD unit say from a van or truck..you can go to the lower ratio rear gear and get some real grunt on the lower end and still serve yourself better mileage on the cruise with the OD. Remember that Chrysler small block trannys are different for the 3.9/5.2 versus the 5.9 as the 5.9 has to have an externally balanced torque converter. The use of a little heavier axle from the Dakota early series with 5 bolt lug will also be great and gives you a better choice of ratios.. 2.94/3.23/3.55/3.73 are the most common with the bigger numbers on 4WD units. The Dakota brakes are smaller but the 5 Ave will directly bolt on using entire backing plate. The 7 1/4 and 8 1/4 share same axle tubes.

I believe most of these cars ran 10 inch drums...that is the inner diameter so with the thickness of the drum considered..11 inch units will be your choice..and I think if memory serves me correct that some people swapping to disc brakes have run into clearance issues with the standard size wheel scrubbing and have had to go to a more modern profile that gives you clearance for the additional room needed when mounting the caliper in place. I think Norm himself had to buy new wheels to clear his disc setup and Don C. got new rims also but cannot remember if his was for clearance reasons also.. Running late model Chrysler wheels will give you the room you need I believe as they are all designed around disc brakes. Other issues in mounting disc is the bending of the steering link so as to prevent scrubbing there as well. Maybe Norm can jump in here and elaborate on his set-up and reason for the new rims.

this is from a town south of here that hosts our bi-annual swap meet..the texture of the card is different and I guess I just flat out liked it so much I bought it..one can only guess to what cars are pictured..

You are using + and - for terminals 1 and 2 and that is okay as long as 1 goes to one and 2 goes to two..the second chart is incorect....the first wiring should be correct..the black box you have below the tanks sending unit..what does that represent...?? This should be the sending unit going to ground....as the tank is full in this confition, the guage will read full as you indicate in your test. Using the trouble shooting chart above you can test each leg of the resistor by grounding or open by just lifting the wire off the terminal, through the wiper on the reisitor...as posted in picture by Tom T. Do not depend on the tank itself being a good ground connection..you can run an alternate ground wire to the frame of the car..please keep in mind here also that the lower part of the sending unit, the bulge that the reistor fits into is the ground point mechanically for the wiper..the sender has a gasket between it and the tank and internally between the bulge and the top cap where the terminals are..you can take a short piece of wire and place it between the sender and the tank with the gasket under the wirre and bolt it down..this wire can now go to your car body and ground ensuring a good connection at this point..seriously sounds like ground is your problem. In regard to your reducer..if this is one of the type that bolt in and not electronic or bi-metal style as built into your guage..the load will not be enough to reduce you voltage..they work well on larger load device but WILL still surge on first power then fall back. What voltage are you reading on the guage side of the reducer with the ign switch on? Can you post a pic of your reducer...? Again, the guage will work without the reducer as the guage itself has a built in 5 volt bi-metal regualtor. The ground is the one most common problen to these guages not working. As indicated in earlier post and pictures above..the wiper, arm that the float connects to, is the only link to ground you should have on the sender.