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Assembly line foreman to engine builder " I don't care what the build card sez, USE THEM TILL THE DAMED BIN IS EMPTY!" " Are we clear on that? GOOD."9

Another variable, my 56 Plymouth 230 had a six bolt assementric pattern. Maybe to carry the overdrive? I used my 4 bolt (lightened) 46 flywheel. The od I found matched the 56 engine but I chose to use the light 4 bolt flywheel. 18K on the setup, no issues.

Talk about artistic license, look at the 37 illustrations. Compared to the actual cars, they look chopped channeld and lowered. Well they were trying to sell cars.

Three passenger rating is pretty optimistic especially these days. With me and my wife comfortably ensconced, there is barely room for our 25 pound dog between us. Folks must have been narrower in 1946. Thanks for attaching those pages. Quite interesting how in depth the descriptions were. Folks today are interested in USB ports cupholders,and how far the remote start can be from the car and still work.

Fuller brushes, Stanley Home products, Electrolux, Rainbow, and Kirby Vacuum cleaners, encyclopedias, bailer twine, milking machine parts. Life Insurance. Hormel Meats had a fleet of them painted up like their canned ham containers and a few done in Spam livery. NY City PD used them as radio patrol cars and in Traffic and Parking Enforcment units. Saw a pic of one with a slide out mini machine shop. Mine was owned by a fellow that sold farm implements, tractorsand tools. He had a garage full of die-cast models of his catalog/ brochure items. Some manufacturers labeled them as Doctors Coupes, most notably Buick and Packard. My service manual specifically refers to that body as business coupes differentialy seperate from the club coupe with the back seat. In 1940 and or 1941 there was an option for fold out occasional seats which faced to the side. I forget the term for those. The business coupe was the body that was built as the p15 convertibles. On the p15s the trunk lid was specific to the coupe and convertible. 20230116_141520.heic

You should have a knob and cable to disengage free wheeling. Its charm was only moderately usable in the thirties. I think its an over driven gear with a prawl to lock in or not. My choice these days is not.

Spiffy! I have a pair of wing tip brogue in nearly the same colors. I think they may be also known as spectators I think they were popular when your coupe was built. Great lookng car enjoy have fun!⁶ ,

I took my road test in a 54 Meadowbrook with three speed fluid drive. I used second gear for the bulk of the test using my right foot on gas and brake. Clutching only for reverse during parallel parking and three point turn. I used third once to go above 25 mph. He had me accelerate from a stop sign get up to 25 then stop and do a left hand turn. When we finished he said I had passed and complimented me on my smoothness. He said if he didn't know better he would have thought the car was an automatic.

Put the front bumper against a stout tree. At idle(500 rpm) in 3rd, side step the clutch. Report your findings . If you are squeamish, put an old tire between bumper and tree.

I was going through my business card file (yes some people still retain old habits) and I found a piece of folded paper. It was they list of engine rebuild i ordered from Egge in 2001. Anybody have a similar list with current cost? .030 over pistons. 164.00 Rings. 52.00 Main brngs. 68.00 Cam brings. 26.00 Oil pump. 56.00 Timing gears. 50.00 Timing chain. 54,00 I got some other stuff from Terrel Machine in Texas, ~150.00. Valve train parts, freeze plugs were sourced through the machinist. He charged me 800.00 to boil out bore,deck, mill the head, balance, lighten flywheel, port matching, install parts necessary to short block status. I brought it home did the head, manifolds, accessories and reinstalled. If you have similar in current cost let's see them. Motor still running as it did 20 years ago so pretty good annualized expense.

Why is the clutch slipping? It, by design, should stall the driven portion of the drive asemblage. The fluid absorbing the umph of the engine while the clutch and transmission held static by the brakes

I have a long screw driver. Bent it with a torch.it engages latch as shown above. It can also where cable is clamped to the assembly. It worked better when I was 56 as opposed to 76 as getting on the ground comes into play.

On the agenda for today is gas trip. Being it's 75 degrees and sunny, I will combine business and pleasure. Take a trip to the gasoleenaria, for 10 gallons of non ethanol fuel, pick up a prescription at Wally Green's place, jump over to True value for a new sparky thingy for the snow blower. Then do the twisty section on NY Rt 13 downstream along Chittenango Creek north from Cazenovia to agitate the Sept gas with the November gas and and a jigger or two of Stable. Then cozy Kate up in the garage for her nap. Mouse bait stations in the garage are negative for activity. Trunk, interior and under hood will be baited up also. So last ride unless winter is mild and reduced salt diet is available. Cheers to everyone who has a 8 plus month driving season.

Not 100% correct but pretty darn close.

Have you looked at this from the opposite end of the question, what 12 v do you need to run the ac? Seems the compressor clutch, and the circulation fan are what needs 12v. Put one of those red top fancy gel thingies in to power those. Unless you are in the car for long trips, seems if put on a charger over hight you would have 3hrs of ac, or go to a 6v to 12v step up to power the ac. This one is 1/10 the cost of what you posted puts out 10 amps. Or use it to charge the ac battery with engine on. Couple articles I looked at suggested 6 amp to engage clutch and ~4 amps to hold in. Those compact compressors on small cars and hybrids probably draw less. So instead of converting the car, build a seperate power source for the ac. https://www.kaiserwillys.com/products/dc-6v-5-11v-to-12v-10a-step-up-converter-module-fits-41-71-jeep-willys-923133/?gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0vfNqYHDiQMViUn_AR3hUxZ_EAQYBCABEgJ5EPD_BwE

Sure you can ask away. But like the kid at the Auto Zone,year, make and model info is helpful to any discussion. Pretty sure you will find some good neighbors here. This forum is unusually free of haters,baiters trolls,spammers and nitpickers.

IF you shift manually to neutral is there any change? Is it a Hi or lo frequency vibration? What is the state of your drive shaft/u joints? Have you ruled out exhaust banging? I had a pipe contacting that passenger side under floor heat shield. ? .

Well, I haven't been to allpar in a while. Looks like they changed things up and the pages I referenced are no longer there. There is some stuff on the AACA forums, but I can't get the link to copy. If you find it the content there by Desoto Frank will be worth a read. He was a member here, but hasn't posted in a long while.

Today's market is pretty slow, values in general are down. Side by side Chrysler products don't fare well compared to similar GM or Ford. The folding top helps the value of this car. If you are thinking it will increase in value over the next few years, it may, but not much. If you are getting it to have a nice ride for cruise in, local cars shows, and pleasure drives and having the wind in your hair, go for it. It will likely have a semi automatic transmission which was Chryslers answer to early selfshifting transmission. It ain't no rocket ship. Go to AllPar.com and search transmissions and fluid drive, and no, they are not the same. The Chrysler in question will likely have an M5 version,of the Presto matic version of te semi automatic, it is a dual range gearbox with 2 speeds in each range. Normal driving is ment to be done in the two gear sets of High Range. Low range is only good for 20 mph so in most road driving situations is not needed,if you need to pull stumps, or pull a two ton trailer up hill, low range is your friend. Once a gear range is selected, the clutch pedsl is no longer needed, the trans will shift , andcan be left in gear when stopped by the brakes. The transmissions are pretty bulletproof with most faults having to do with external controls and connections rather than internal hardware. Does the top work, are you happy with 0 to 60 in 25/30 seconds, with 60 mph as comfortable highway speed, is the fluid drive section free of visible leaks? (Not to be confused with a rear main seal leak of engine oil ) Would I like it in my garage? You betcha!

Plymouth did not have fluid drive. In 53/54 they got Hy Drive which was a three speed driven by a kinda torque converter. Post your engine number. It's stamped on the block on a flat boss above the front most freeze plug. It's a Special deluxe or deluxe. Engine number should start with P19 followed by a mix of didgits, symbols, and or letters. However, engine swaps were pretty common to keep them on the road. Your running gear could have been up or back dated rather then having a rebuild.

Cull your stuff, redistribute load, add air shocks maybe?Y y What condion are your springs shackles and bushings in? The bump stop was probably due to knock off rather than fall off.

Not that it's a big deal, but weren't a lot of the military speced set up for 12 or 24 volts? Swapping accessories would address concerns. Might they also be governored on the intake/carb? Physically should fit. Crank flange,flywheel, starter, clutch diameter may also require a look at compatability and or interchange issues.

Is the 'M' engine 23 inch?

Did you solve this? I chased a gremlin with my last new battery. It was fresh carried specified amps under load test. Put it in, worked great but had intermittent glitches. Found that even though the negative clamp was fully tightened, it was not fully clamped to the post. A bit of fiddly triming of the clamp with a mat knife solved the issue. You also might give your solenoid a couple three whacks with the handle end of a long screw driver to wake up the inner components. Is the solenoid properly grounded? Have you got a jumper wire and probe? These can be your friends in these situations. Start by checking lf you getting power to the starter side when start circuit is engaged through the stock connections or jumper the small terminal to the battery to if the solenoid is passing current.

I have a spare distributor all set up and ready to drop in. Instead of chasing gremlins, you can save road side repairs and AAA truck haul. Don't know if it's been mentioned but a couple feet of new fuel line and clamps, oh yeah that pesky 30 amp fuse on the headline switch. Have about 40 years of rally experience but in time speed distance events in New England, PA, Jersey. New York. These typically started 3 PM on Sat and finished 7am Sunday. Then a 250 mile drive home. Did a couple scavengers style, didn't click with them. Good luck.