John-T-53

"JEEBUS" No. 2 ! Looking at all the heavy corrosion found in the tappet chambers on the previous page, this engine needs to be removed and placed on a stand and disassembled. Even if it turned over, it's in no shape to run with all that crap in there. There is likely corrosion that you can't see that is locking up the rotating assembly. The block needs to be thoroughly cleaned - baked, tanked, blasted, and inspected before proceeding. You might already have a boat anchor on your hands, but you won't know until you can have a shop inspect it. I'm trying to save you time from making more snausage here. Hopefully it's still good!

I, too, was considering the R-10 when first looking onto ODs back in 2010 or 2011....and decided to go with a T5 after similar advice from Dodgeb4ya and Ed (above), and others.

Yes, it will all come out intact; you'll need to angle the engine/tranny assembly up at a steel angle to clear the front sheet metal (dawg house) and cab, as you dangle/lift it out vertically. I did it this way the first time, second time I removed the dawg house and it was a lot easier.

I like it this way....consolidates information. And reminded me that I have not yet returned to finish removing my door lock since my last attempt 14 years ago as documented above.... humph

Over on the FxBO sites (FCBO for me), there are news and politics forums and they need no moderation. You're allowed to speak freely as long as it's in the appropriate threads. Yes, still some folks get worked up while others are all over the place and can't make a concise argument. We're slightly more locked down over here. As for the OP, not sure what "problems" leaving this site would solve. If Trudeau gets installed for another term as PM, I'm not going to sh*t the bed, because that's a Canuck problem. For the average little guy like myself, I followed General Flynn's advice and got involved with my local government. That's really the only way to make a difference. Besides that, have good relationships with your neighbors, be kind, and pick up litter. Oh, and stay off Fakebook 😄

Even if you still had the 4.10 rear it would be too high in first....

The 1953 shop manual lists the following gear ratios for the 3-speed transmission which came in the B4B, C, D, & DU. I'd guess that the transmission in the B1s would be the same or very close. 1st 3.3 2nd 1.78 3rd 1.0 Rev 4.3 When combined with the stock 4.10 rear end, you can see where we end up. Does the 833 have any tags or markings where you could look up what it is exactly?

I hate to tell you, but if you are placing this behind a flat 6, too high. Your first gear will have an overall ratio of 8.77, so low performance and no "get up and go". 8.16 is second gear in my truck, for comparison. You want to be in the area of 12-13:1 for first gear. I'd suggest changing the gearset, if possible, or finding a transmission with a desirable set of gears, otherwise your project will have an undesirable outcome, and may lead to more fallout in the decade long battle between the transmission swap clans on this site.

Aw, man. I'm sorry to hear that. Bummer. I'm glad that I got to see her one last time this summer. She had a good run, and was a good kitty.

That's intriguing. So the tire shop took the tires off the wheels, and tried to balance just the wheels themselves? I could definitely see those big bias ply tires being tuff to balance though. Besides any issues with the wheels themselves, one could install radials on original wheels no problem. Well, hope you can save your old wheels in case you want to go back someday, or offer them up for sale on here unless they look like the photo in @Los_Control 's post above. They are getting scarce.

I guess I'm wondering why the need to replace the wheels in the first place, if only the tire size changed? It's hard to tell from the photos what the new wheels look like up close but you may be able to transfer the hub cap clips from the original wheels to the new. They were riveted on. Offset and backspacing are basically two ways of measuring the same thing. With a (positive) 6 offset, that would mean that the mounting surface is 6 inches outward from the centerline of the wheel. If the wheels are 6" wide then this would place it even with the outer edge of the wheel but the pics don't appear to show that. A 3.75 backspacing would mean that the mounting surface is 3.75 inches from the inside edge of the wheel. A bore of 95.25 must be in mm because that equals roughly 3-7/8"

I see an opportunity for some vintage looking flaps with 'Job-Rated', Dodge, Ram, or Cummins logos!

Yeah, look at that tree which was obviously dead for a long time before it fell. The bark had fallen off and the trunk was rotted. Why was it left standing and didn't the car's owner notice or take heed as to where he was parking? This could have easily been avoided. It's interesting that the tree managed to pop out the windshield then land on it vertically without crushing it! I'm not an E-body guy but still sad to see another Mopar bite the dust.

Will you be required to get mud flaps too?

That's the golden ticket right there. Do you rivet them on yourself? Where to get these... Ebey and such? I put 'bestos shoes on the fronts a couple years ago but they were complete units. My parts guy was having them lined down in Columbia or something....