47heaven

Thanks, Frank!

Fred, sorry about that. I still have to get the muffler moved out of the way on the left side. Have gotten extremely busy, and other things have had to come first. I may have the muffler work done tomorrow so I can install the tank. As I had mentioned before, it seems pretty simple, but I just hope the gas line, which is all steel now, will make it to the outlet all right, since this new tank is not as wide as the other.

Well, if you want to stay period correct on a paint color, see what other colors were used on other non-Mopar cars in 1946-48 (e.g. Chevrolet, Buick, Ford, Studebaker, etc.). It might not be what Plymouth offered, but it will be a color that exited then. Remember that people could also order special colors on new cars back then that the dealership didn't offer.

You might want to go down the "blue" direction on what Plymouth offered in paint colors that year. I think there are about 3-4 shades to choose from.

Jon- This is pretty much dead on to that Balfour Green. http://beta.bringatrailer.com/2010/01/25/bat-exclusive-1947-plymouth-special-deluxe/ That's what I wanted to get my car painted at first, but it didn't quite "send me," so to speak. You already know that I went with a Chrysler green from that year called Seacrest Green. I think Dodge even had a similar-looking green, as well. Here is a sample of Chrysler and Dodge's green: Chrysler http://blog.hemmings.com/wp-content/uploads//2011/09/1947ChryslerNewYorker_01_700.jpg Dodge http://www.curbsideclassic.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/Dodge.Business.Coupe_.-1947jpg.jpg

Mmmm...don't like it. Looks like a squashed bug.

My P-15, for the most part is stock. My recent addition to the car was an aftermarket fuel tank because my original was going to cost too much to fix. When I first got the car, my plan was to keep it as original as possible, but as time went on I decided to enhance a few things, but still keeping the original look, inside and out. I really wished that I had dropped a 350 small block engine in instead, which I will do when the straight 6 has run it's course. As time wears on, the parts for these cars are getting harder to find, and many of them not being reproduced like for Chevy and Ford. My theory now is, "What you can't see under the hood and car won't hurt you."

Gotcha...thanks!

I hope that applies to "everyone," and not just a selected few. We have a couple on here who need to get their hand smacked once in a while.

Tried to upload an album, and it said I'm not allowed to. Is there a special pass or priviledge to do so?

Bill...I was told by some on here that I had the option to leave it off, if I use a vented gas cap. This way the tank can fit snug up against the underside of the trunk and be more stable. It makes installation a lot easier also, especially if you are using the old straps.

Wow, Fred, you didn't have to go out and do all that in the cold, but I appreciate it. It looks like I would have to do drill a couple holes in the back to put in the new straps. I'll test the durability of the old ones and decide whether to stay with those or use the new ones..or both. Thanks for braving the cold and snapping those pics!

My old straps are still good, just a little thinner than the newer ones. It's just the new ones seem like they need some fabrication to hook into the slots in the back.

Fred, I took pics, but they came out to dark to see.

Fred, the new tank is 4" longer than the original tank was. I just got off the phone with the place that had done the muffler work originally, and they told me that they would be able to redirect the tailpipe in question back into the other pipe so that it will just be one pipe out the back end now instead of two. I'll lose my twin pipe look, and will be back to the stock look, but that is something I can live with. As soon as I get the pipe work done, I'll get that tank up and in there. One question I have though. Do the original straps hold the new tank fine by themselves? The reason I ask is because I can't figure out how the new straps work, nor was there any fastening hardware sent with them.

Was installing the tank today and, of course, I ran into a hurdle that I couldn't clear. The tail pipe that I had added five years ago when I went split exahust now sits in the way of the clearance on the drivers side, thus not allowing the hole on the fuel tank to line up with the whole on the bottom of the trunk for the sending unit. It's not the tank's fault because it's designed to fit the car, which it would had the secondary tailpipe not been there. So now, I have to figure out a way to redirect the secondary tailpipe to come out the same side that the correct one was does. Can the tailpipe be cut after the muffler and directed into the pipe on the correct side or would that call for a larger diameter tailpipe at the end? I would really like to keep the tailpipe the same size coming out the end, even though I'm going to lose my twin pipe look.

Like Tim, I will probably wait until it's out on video; as I don't do theaters either. People just don't know how to keep their cells phones off and shut up during a movie anymore. I swear in this still from the movie it looks like my P15 (same color and model) going down the middle of the road.

Fred...understand that I live in sunny California. 30's are very cold temps here for us. -2 would be like death out here because our blood isn't as thick. Actually, it got down to 31 last night. I have a very good heater on that Plymouth, once the engine heats up, that is. The only problem I get is fogged windows, especially when it's raining, but I've learned how to crack the wind wing just enough to solve that problem.

Yes, I'm running 12 volts, and a few years ago I switched to a one wire sending unit and gauge (I have a new gauge, but the old face is still being used).

I have an aftermarket, one wire, sending unit that I was already using with the previous tank. Just have to see if it will fit into the hole of the new one. I was just curious why this new tank has baffles? I thought it would have been straight through all the way across just like in the original. Are they to make the tank stronger or control sloshing of the gas?

Fred, I took the gas tank out originally when I first bought the car. I was a little thinner then, too, so it was easier to get underneath it. What brand of black paint do you suggest that I use to paint the gas tank?

That's cool to know, Grady! I was supposed to go see it with some other friends in their vintage cars at this drive in tonight, but I'm kinda coming down with a cold, and it's going to be in the upper 30's tonight, so I refrained from going, plus my car isn't ready. Probably the reason they used a lot of D-24s and P-15s is because most of the Chevys and Fords from that era are either hot rodded, chopped, or lowriders.

I think that is what I'm going to do. I want the gas tank snug against the botton of the trunk. BTW...do the new straps go in like the old ones? Can the old ones still be used on this tank?

I really wish I could have used the original, but it's really a mess, and the cost to strip the old coating out would have cost more than the new tank did. The way I see it...what they can't see under the car won't hurt them, right?

Fred...most of what you said seems to make sense. As I was reading the paper they sent me it mentions: "Most of our tanks our designed to work with your stock-style vented cap. We have provided and additional vent opening in many of our tanks to help with today's reformulated fuels. If you have changed to a non-vented cap, your installation may require additionalventing through the neck or the sending unit to prevent pressurizing the tank." So does this mean that the top vent is optional since the vent is additional? In other words, if I use a vented gas cap instead, will I have to still vent it from the top? The only thing I'm confused on is if I do have to place this vent flange on the tank, and space it from under the trunk floor, how is the sending unit going to mount to the tank? I'm thinking of the gap between the tank and trunk floor, or is the sending unit no longer going to be mounted to the floor of the trunk, but to the tank?