desoto1939

There are two miller tools that are used to get the correct spacing and also so that you do not bend in out out the control arms for the upper an lower bushings. Contact me I have the tools. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

25 dollars is the fee they charge you to dive into their garage and then you walk in to the office and they start they paperwork. $25 dollars really does not buy anything today Rich Hartung

To help on my taillights I got a spray can of Chrome spray paint at the local Home Depot. Taped the socket so that no paint would get intot he socket and then sprayed the inside of the taillight housing. Or you can use some reflective tin foil in the back of the bucket to push the light forward. Rich Hartung

On my 39 Desoto the fist stop on the light swith operate the small parking lights in the headlight. The second stop on the way out turns the parking lights off and then turns on the low beams. This is a standard in cars. Even with your modern cars you can just turn on your parking lights at the first stop on the light switch and then the second stop is the low beams. On some modern cars the running lights stay on but would still think they would go off. Go try this on your modern car. Most owners manual glovebox manual will even tell you this info even in your old cars it does. Rich HArtung

Question: during the day with the lights not tuned on and you use either right or left turn signal do the appropriate lights flash with the lights out, yes or no. If they do blink is is a very weak light or a bright light? if weak then you might have the bulbs insert incorrectly. The blinker should be the high intensity and the low intensity is the running lights. Did you install an after market turnsignla unit and how many wires are there for the turnsignal unit? Now go out a night time do not turn the lights on forthe car. use the turn signal do you get a weak or strong signal? If week then reverse the double fillment bulb in the socket. Make sure that the dual filiments are making contact in the base of the bulb. USe a 6v battery charger grounf the bulb with one connect on the charger to the base of the bulb, then use the other clips and clipa a wires to it then touch one of the contacts on the bulb. it should light then do the same with the other contact. MAke sure the bulbs are even working. What bulb number are you using? I think it should be a 1158 if my memory is correct?????? Rich HArtung

My 1939 Desoto came with the inner two section fenders and the lower splash shields that you are talking about. This was not an option but part of the standard package for this car. By taking off the upper an lowere inner fender sheetmetal then you can get to both side of the engine. On the right side, passenger this is done when the car is up on the lift and the right front wheel is removed and this provides access to adjust the valves. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

MAke sure you have the bulb making contact with the coorect contact points of the bulb and the socket. You might have the bulb installed in the incorrect relationship to the contact points. I have seen this done on modern cars when the owner has replaced a burned out bulb and they do not get the bulb installed with the correct indexing. So the bright brake light is always on and then when the hit the brake the light goes dull. Also check for a good ground on the sockets to the body. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Take yourr time in finding the parts. The hunt for the parts is also a major part of the game in getting the car on the road. If price is not a problem then the big venders like Mitchell, Roberts and Bernbaum will be your first place to checkout if they have the NOS parts but you will pay for the cost to play with them. Check out any all swap meets you might get lucky and find the parts. ALso do not forget to look in the vendors that caryy Ford and Chevy parts the smaller guys, They sometimes get items in lots and they sometimes get some Mopar items for sale and do not even know what they have and sometimes you get a bargin price. Now since it is getting to be colder and the weather is changing and less driving time this is a good time to get to know your car inside an out and to checkout the condition and to start to make a list of what you can work on right now and putoff for warmer weather but also gives you time to do searching for items. I have had my 39 desoto for 25+ years and I am always looking for parts even thought it is in good condition. The hunt never stops that the fun of the hobby. Here is the link to the Ply owners Club regional clubs. You might want to find a local club and contact them and ask for any help in locating the headlight parts for your 39 Ply. http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/regions.htm Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I can also tell you that the 39 Desoto LWB uses different suspension components that the regular 6. The Dodge and Ply LWB fron suspension components fit the standard 6 Desoto suspension components. So you have to be very careful when buying suspension parts since the regular Dodge/Ply will NOT fit the Chrysler and Desoto front ends. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Definately contact Don Axlerod He specilaizes in pre war headlights. He might have what you want. Here is Don's information: Headlight Headquarters 35 Timson St, Lynn, MAss 01902-1824 Phone 781-598-0523 Rich HArtung

LLoyd: when on ebay checkout on the 39 Ddodge I think i saw an 39 Plymouth square headlight bucket and it looked in good condition. You will also need to have the headlight socket 2331 for the correct syle headlight bulbs. There is only one vender that has these headlight sockets and that is Don Axlerod up in Mass. I use the same sockets on my 39 Desoto. He has had a major run done on these sockets and they cost $35 for a pair. I have a 39 Desoto which is close to your car. You will need the internal frame to hold the refelectors and the sockets. The headlight glass and the Chromes frames. These are called the headlight doors and also a rubber gasket that goes arounf the glass and the refelctor. Roberts Mopar pasts has the bulbs which are 2331 not 2330 and the rubber gasket. The 39 Plymouth has alot of stuff since they were the most produced, then Dodge and then Des/Chrysler. The 39 Plymouth is somewhat by itself on sheet metal. The 39 Dod/Des/Chry share some of the same sheet metal. Write to me and keep looking on the Bay and also contact the POC Plymouth Owneres Club. They might beable to help with the buckets. The conversion assembly over to sealed beams does not enhance the front of the car. This is just my opinion so if you can get the original headlight it will look better. ALso I would go with the hologen 2331 bulbs if you can get some and also put a headlight relay on the car to help get brighter lights. When swaping over to sealed beams you do not keep the original headlight chrome trim becasue the sealed beam is not round and the new outter door has the correct sized hole for the sealed beam. There is a front end currently on the Bay with this setup. do a search on 1939 Plymouth headlights. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Chrysler number 1271105 equals Victor 49658 and national 6017 this is according to my Victor and National Oil seal catalog. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ok to answer your question the Ammeter Autolite Number 11236A is used from 1946 - 1948 on all the chrysler 6 and 8 cylinder cars. This information was taken from my master Autolite catalog that goes from 38-51. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I would suggest that you get the lines that are more bendable instead the old style that nned the bending tool. ALso do not use stainles steel lines they get brittle and are hard to make the flare. As stated before get the flareing tool and practice to get the feel for what you are doing. To test you fdouble flare making use two short lines and then connect them togehter. Plug the one end and get all connector tight. Stil the line in so water and have the connected lines in the water then blow air into the line to see if you have any leaks. You shold not see any air bubles. If there are now bubles then you have gotten the flaring process down and can start to work on you lines for the car. Better to experiment before putting the lines inthe car and then seeing you have leaks. Do not use teflon table on the connectors. Onthe parts book you do not need an original Dealers parts book. Look to see if you can get a reporduction. These are some time cheaper. Only you are going to use the book. When having a car shown for an AACA event the parts book even when shown in the trunk does not carry any wieght on the judging. The parts book is only used incase the judge has a question about a part or accessory and then the book is used to verify that it is correct for your car or truck. They do not care if the book is new old or has some wear. Just need verification. Check the Bay for repro parts books Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Robert: I know what you mean about the conversion setups to go to sealed beam. I have two conversion kits for my 39 Desoto. One with painted headlight rim and the other with Chrome Trim rims. The conversion headlight door as they are called do not do anything for the fron of the car. They are just big and bulky looking. Since we really do not drive the car at night I have not chnaged over to sealed beam. Thinking of going to the Halogen bulb with the flange. Also there is a gentleman in the West Coast that will take the reflector after you have had it nickel plated and buffed and then will put on a plastic coating just like they are doing with the modern cars. The reflection is stated to be better than the silver plating and sinc e it is a highly reflective plastic coating it will never get dull like the silver plating does. I would like to go that route first but need to find another spare headlight reflector. I have three spares and two have been buffed out with still good silver and the other would also need to be buffed out. So if i can get a very dull reflector then I would give it a go. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

This topic is for the guys that have 1939 Car and Trucks and back. Since we use the lightbulb in our headlights and not the Sealed beam unless you converted to sealed beam style. These vehicles used a special socket that has three pins. These sockets are very easy to find in swap meets and even at Hershey which is a huge swap meet. There are two types of bulbs the 2330 and the 2331 these headlight bulbs have a flange with three holes that match upto moutning pins on the headlight socket and then the two contacts inside the socket for high and low beam. So be very careful. The 2330 socket looks the same as the 2331 but the dirrecence is how the contact match with the bulbs. The 2330 is setup so that the low and high in the bulbs goes up and down, but the 2331 is setup so the high and low go left and right. Don Axelrod is the only vender now that is carrying these two light sockets. He had to get special run made. So here is my advise. If you have these bulbs either the 2330 or the 2331 in you head light I would suggest that you pickup a set for spares. I bought a pair from him at Hershey this year for $35 and that included shipping. These also come with the pigtail wires. Best be prepared for the future His address is Headlight Headquarters, 35 Timson St, Lynn, M 01902.. You can also search him on the web. Just passing along this information for the old car and truck member. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is a good one for you all: The 39 Dodge/Desoto and Chrysler all had electric wiper motor. The 39 Ply stillretained the vacuum wiper motor. Some point in time after 39 I think they all went back to a vacuum wiper motor, do not know why. Can anyone verify a year after 39 when they went back to vacuum. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Yes the lead was used to cushion the vale sets, But Chrysler engineering was a step ahead of the other manufacturers from what I have read and have been told. They used hardened value seats in their engines. So this is why our engines do not have to worry about the use of unleaded fuel. If you had the engine rebuilt then they should have used hardened valve seats. If you do not have bill and a list of the items that were replaced it will be a hit or miss situation. All older engines when being rebuilt should get the hardened valve seats. So the lead in the old gas that was being sold was an extra benefit to our cars. Am I correct in my assumption. If I am not correct please let me know so I have the knowledge. Thanks, Rich Hartung

I have read that you could use sim stock on the brake linings to make up the difference if the drums have been cut. Rich Hartung

I just looked at the 1938 Desoto shop manual and the 39 Desoto supplemental shop manual that the dealers would have in their shops and there is NOTHING mentioned in either manual in the brake section and or in the Specifications section on the drums and how much can be removed. I have checked these two books several times and nothing is ever stated. Rich Hartung

Plymouthy: Thanks for the information. I have looked several times at my original drums and there is nothing stamped or even cast into the drum with this information. The older cars like mine did not have this info and I guess Chrysler felt that the dealership and or the independent garages would have this information in their manuals. So this is why jopjob was asking because I think from his first post his drums do not have the info. I have looked around and have never seen as stated value Actually I just looked in my 1935-53 Motors auto repair Manual and in the brakes section thee is nothing mentioned about the cutting of a brake drum and the max that you can take off the drum I have looked all over and could not find this info Rich Hartung

I have a 39 Desoto and in none of the manuals that I have for this car and any other manuals that I have none of them state what the max can be removed from the drums. I do know that some of the more modern drums have the amounts cast onthe outside of the drums but the older style usually do not have this information. This is also helpful for my education for my car also. Thnaks for the info Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

You will use a 6Volt headlight bulb 6006 if I remember correctly. This year I saw more that I ususally do at Hershey. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

As marty stated the engine block is bigger, 25 inch block. The baisics of the engine and how it works will be the same but the internals will be differnet because of the size. The water distribution tube is the longer one, etc same for the head. ALso the suspension parts will be different. What I have found with my 39 Desoto is the the 39 Ply/Dodge long wheel base models some of the suspension parts will interchange but the regular 39 Ply/Dodge will not fit. So the best thing is to get a 51 desoto parts book and then also the 54 pLy parts book and compare the numbers to see if anything matches, but Iwould think most will not. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I came across a NOS MOPAR radiator at Hershey last year and it was still available this year. It is in a box and it is the old style honeycomb radiator. The number on the tank with the Mopr DPCD logo was 794009. My 39 Desoto has a number 794008. The seller did not know what year it fit and everyone was asking the same question. I did a search in my Motors flat rate book for the 39 Chry. Dodge, Ply and this number does not show for any of these cars. Does anyone have a lead as to what this might fit. I looked i tne top hole where the cap goes and it was very clean I took measurements of my 39 Desoto and if they are close to this radiator and he stillhas it next year I will buy it, but would like to have an idea what it might fit. ANy help would be appreciated. The old styel honeycombs rad's are hard to find Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com