desoto1939

Frank checkout this listing on the Ebay: 1941 1942 1946 1947 1948 Chrysler Bullseye Sealed Beam Headlight Assemblies Do a seach on this and they have the buckets and bulbs might be a good example fo ewhat you are looking for Seem to be NOS or very good used condition. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Frank: Not sure of the answer to your question, But of other concern is that you have the turnsignal or parking light in the top of the headlight trim ring. Is this a seperate bucket fromt he main sealed beam bucket? If there are seperate buckets then I would think it should be the same bucket style witht he plastic three blade connectors. Also check that you wires are tight ont he headlight black onthe innerfender or if it attaches to the radiator on some cars. Also check that the headlight block is tight and is not moving where it bolts to the metal. Could also run a ground of the headlight block. Just a thought. I know the 39 desoto setup better than the 40 and above. Hope this helps, just a thought. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157 cell 610-630-9188 home valley forge pa

Also check the terminal block where all the wires for the headlights attach to the fender. I found mine ws lose and this can also cause a problem with grounding. But I also thin the dimmer switch is the issue. Keep hitting the switch with your foot and this might clean up the contacts or as tim said get a new one. Also they are on the bay Rich Hartung

I sent you a PM this morning Rich HArtung

Ok on the truck side someone asked if there are special tools to rebuild a water pump. I have several of the miller tools for that purpose C412 is used to puller the pulley flange off the shaft c783 is used to put the pilot hole in the shaft and has a hole for your drill bit to put the pin that holds the pulley flange c384 is used to burnish the two inside bushing and to face the inside of the housing c373 is used to push out the two internal bushings and also to install the two inner bushing tried to post the pictures but the file is too large. If anyone want the pictures and info sheets then email me Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I will try to post pictures of the tools later tonight and willpost on both the Truck and Car side of the forum. rich hartung

Yes there are special Miller water pump tools. The is a puller to pullthe end that hold the pull and fan blade. Then ther is a tool to pulland installthe two innter busings. There also is a tool to chase the two inner bushing and also a tool that is used to face the internal section of the bushing. I have these and also a special tool to locate the hole in the main rod that hold the flange to center the hole to drillthe hole inthe main rod that goes throught the pully. I have all of these tools, Miller Tools. Alos note that the rebuild kits if found run about 45-60 dollars sometime you can get a rebuilt WP for the same amount and do not have to worry about if you did the job correctly. So spend 60 for a kit or 70-90 for a pump that you just install and then go for a ride. Some people like to fix other like to replace. Inthe old days they fixed them at the dealership. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I noticed that you did not champer the ends so now you have a blunt end. When new linings are put on both ends are cut at an angle to help when the wheel is rotating so it rotates and there is not chnae of breaking the ends since there are square. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Do not convert the old driveshaft because you willbe using 50 plus old material. If you are going to go to a new DS then get a completely new shaft tube made with the slip joint init and the new spicer ujoints. Have the unit balanced. Then get the extra two spicer u joints for the front and rear to have. Then you can alwasy use a zert fitting to lube the ujoint every year. The newer ds wil lrun about 350-400. When you figure in the cost of the old style detroit ujoints which cost 150 and up so for two you already have spent 300 and then the time and money topress the pin in and rebuild another 50. The DS shop will also align the shaft and install it in a short amount of time. And now you have a modern shaft that anyone can work on. If it is bent replace the entire unit. JUst my 25 cents worth of data and now you should not have any issues with the driveline. If the old DS is cut you still have to get the parts and also rebalance the shaft. Go New. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Mine has the original Radiator and I have verified the MOPAR number that is stampped on the top of the resevior tank Rich

on the 39 desoto and also older desoto in the 40's they had an 11 inch clutch. These were used in the taxi's so I would think they 11 inch should fit but I am not 100 positive. Rich HArtung

u joint tool

[here is a copy of my finding about kettering

If you do a search on who invented the electric starter you will find the Charles Kettering developed the electric start mechanism for cadilacc.

Don has the old style PIN and Trunion style not the modern cross style. So there is a road that comes out of the end of the driveshaft that has a small ball on the end. A pin then goes throught the hole in the ball end. The pin needs to be centered between the ball end. The entire pin and trunion fits into a metal housing that has either a leather or rubber boot covering to prevent dirt, water and other crud from getting into the internal workings of the until. The housing can slide forward and backwards as needed. There is a metal plate that overs the end of the unit where the housing then bolts onto the end of the trans and at the differential end. These unit are Known as Detroit U joints or Pin and Trunion U joint and they are getting very expensive $150 and up for the internal parts plus the housing. Also there are different sizes for the various cars. Double check an ebay seller and ask for measurements on the housing and flange size. There are special Miller Tools to driveout the pins and also to center the pin in the ball end.I have the Miller tool that is used to drive out eh pin and center the pin and also the vise that is used to hole the ball in place and support the ball end. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You can purchase chrome spray paint and then spray the inside of the bucket to get some more reflective background in the housing. I did this with my 39 Desoto Rich Hartung

I have 39 Desoto that uses the starter push rod that is just above the gas pedal. I have two NOS front nose pieces for my car. I has the crack hole and also came with the cover, the other does not have the crank hole cover. Also the one that came with my car does not have the crank hole. even thought there is a crank hole in the one unit there is no possible way to crank over the car since the radiator comes down to low in the nose piece to allow a crank rod to engage the crank shaft. This was just a left over. So at least 39 Does not have the hand crank option for the Desoto. I also know that the Dodge, Chrysler and Desoto had the basic same body style so I would assume that the hand cranking is not available. And also who would want to try to crank over by hand our flat head 6, And since Doctor Kettering from the Sloan Kettering Cancer hospital designed the electric start back in the teens for Cadillac who would want to hand crank a car and then have to worry about breaking a wrist if you held you hand in the wrong position on the crank handle. Remember never over lap your thumb on the crank handle open palm to prevent a broken thumb. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Ok: I know this has been mentioned before and I looked in the reference section on the forum. The weather is warm here is Valley Forge,PA today tookthe 39 out for a drive. After driving the engine was running around 170 which is ok since has a 160 them. Then hard starting the car after it sat for around 10-15 minutes. I read to reset the float level on the carb. So What I need to do is then bend the tab back so the float stis loser in the bowel Is that correct or should I bend in in to get it to sit high in the bowel. Just want to make sure I am bending in the correct way to help solve the issue and give it a try. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com.

If your engine has the petcock on the dizzy side of the block open this to see if you get any water flow. There still might be crud inthe block. you might have to stick a hard metal rod into the opening to free up any blockage. I still think you might have crud in the block and might have to pullthe welch plugs or other wise known a freeze plugs. I also wondering if you might have an air bubble in the block. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

I have had the plastic trim clips on my car since 1996 when I had it paitned and have not had any issues. Your newer cars are using plastic clips instead of metal. So you should not have any problems. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Don: Yes we have come to know them as Freeze Plugs, but really they are not freeze plugs. They were plugs in the block to help remove the sand from when the block was being form in the casting. So they realy are a core plug. They usually do not pop when the engine block freezes over as you would think by the terminalogy freeze plug. Don do not feel bad about asking questions, most of us do not know all the answers but for some they are more knowledgeable about automivtive terminollogy. aS WE WERE ALL TOLD IN SCHOOL, NO QUESTION IS NOT A DUMB QUESTION, It s just harder to remember as we all get older in life what the answer is to our question. Even my 85 yearold father in-law still asks questions about his 31 Model A and guess what I am even learning from his questions and answers that we have during our discussion on the antique cars. Knowledge is to be sought after and then also to be given forth to help the next guy down the lane, keep passing it on. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

maybe they sent you thr wrong rubber grommet. I know they list seperate car and truck fuel gromments. Check to see if they sent you the correct one. You might have gotton one that is tight and then it split because it was too small for the filler pipe. Just a thought. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

SInce you stated that you plan on driving the car at 60-70 MPH I would then install the disk brake setup on the car and then also swap out the rear to a more desireable road rearend that can handle those speeds. So are you going to Hotrod the car or just add modification to make it go faster? Also be carefl when driving at thos speeds. These cars were origannly setup to cruise comfortably in the 45-55 mph range with the original motor/trans and rear setup. Just my 2 cents. My big question is why do alot of people buy and old car and then want to go at sppeds like a modern car? If you have a car that needs total restoration then make it a streetord but the older cars were not ment to be driven at such high speeds. Slow down and enjoy the sites. or just go modern and save alot of cash. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

When I repainted my 39 Desoto I buffed out the stainless stell with an old washing machine motor. Get the appropriate kit with the appropriate wheels and compounds and you can save some money. I did not use metal clips to attach my restored trim. I use plastic trim clips instead. If you go to any good autobile paint supplier they should have an assortment of plastic clips. Try them until you get the one that fits inside your molding and also has the proper sized button that will fit the holdes in the body. Even being a little bigger for the hole size is ok since you do not want the trim to come off. I recommend plastic clips since they will not rust and since this is hidden no one will ever know that you are using plastic and not the original metal. The pastic is easier to get and use. Always get extra clips incase you break a couple or even lose a couple. Nice to have some extras Just my two cents on this topic. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

DOn: Not being a mechanic and looking at the picture I would say there is a lot of carbon build up and the car is running rich in the air fuel mixture. The blck stuff also looks wet to me inthe picture. I would say a fuel air mixture issue. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com