desoto1939

Young Ed: we all know that these AMMCO tools have gone for some very high costs. The 150 is a great price if all the parts were there. But you also have to figure that how many times will we do a brake job. Maybe two times with the little amount that some people drive there cars. So when I lend out my tool it is just the cost of shipping. So when you would buy your own tool there is a cost to ship it to you. So now when I ship to you the first cost of shipping equals out and you have not spent 200-300 for a tool. Now you ship back to me $20. So now you have saved anywhere from 180 to 280 dollars. even if you need the tool again $40 so now you still saved 140 to 240 dollars and you do not have a tool sitting in your tool box that you spent a lot of money for and then you hope that you can resale to get your money back plus the listing fee on ebay. So in the long run it really is cheaper and more economical to rent the tool from me or someone else that is not charging to even use the tool. I do know that some people want the tool to have and that is ok with me. I had the opportunity to get my Ammco gage at a very cheap price a long time ago so that is why I have mine own. I also have the miller tool MT19 and got that at a swap meet at a really steal so when the tools are cheap then you get them but when they are over the top you borrow them if you can is my theory. So this is why I offer to loan my tools. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

You need the complete tool. The dial onthe other end is part of the micing part of the job. So both parts the rod and the dial are used at the same time. Then you take the reading on the dial and for an example if it si 40 then you turn back the dila to 1/2 the number on the dial because you now will be only working on one side or half of the brakes So in this example you reset hte dial back to 20 And then set the lock screww. Take out the long rod. Put the tool onthe spindle or axile not the eccentric cam that had the various numbers which is now set to 20 is used to get the brake shoes to touch the lining. Adjust the toe wihich is the top cam and then the heel which is the bottom eccentric so that these parts of the brake just touch the shoe. Keep doing this until you get a perfect brake adjustment. Then go do the other side of the same brake assembly. Some guys also use the the feeler gage as specified in the repair manual. After getting the shoes set then put the drum back on the spindle/Axle. I then perform a minot adjustemtn witht he top cam only spin the wheel ue one of the top anchor to lock the wheel from spinning then back off to have a little drag. Then do the other cam inthe same manner. Then get in the car and push the brake pedal to help set the shoes. and test agin inthe same manner. The start the process all over again on the otheropposite drum. So you need the complete tool unless you want to get the parts as they come up on the Bay. Also refer to the technical section onthe forum about the useage of the Ammco and the miller tools. I did a power point on these two tools at the Philadelphia AACA annual meeting Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

The microm eter shaft is the rod that has a flat spot onthe end and then there are three holes in the rod for 10, 11, 12 inches. These are for the different drum sizes. This is key to the tool, Did you read my post above your post about the tool. I also sent you a prive IM about the toolthat I have, the Same tool. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

you can pick up these wrench at your local swap meets. Eventhe cheaper wrenchs are ok so long as you do not beat on them. Th bolts to hold onthe starters do not have to be held in place with a lot of force. Just have them snug and tight. This isa wrench that is not used allthe time but when you need it you need it to do the job in those tight areas.. Like Don showed the wrench also can be used to get to the bolts inthe manifold just to get a short throw onthe nut or bolt. Rich Hartung

To take the starter off my 39 Desoto I have what is called an obstruction wrench. You can get these at any aoto parts store or even sears. The wrench looks like a it has been bent. It is cureved so that the box end fit over the socket and the curve of the wrench fits the contour of the starter. It is a slow process to take the bolts out but this is the wrench that you need. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

This is Rich Hartung. And Yes I do have the AMMCO tool and also the Miller MT119 tool. The Ammco tool is the easier of the two and is cheaper to mail. Contact me if you need to rent the tool. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

According to Motors Manual 1941 - 53 water pump remove: Remove the fan belt and disconnect the water pump hoses. Unfasten the water pump from the engine and lift out the pump and fan blade assembly. when installing the pump make sure all mating surfaces are clean and use new gaskets rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

According to my Hollander book Dodge Front drum from 1939 - 42 5 passenger Dodge Rear drum from 1939 - 42 5 passenger since you have left and right threaded drum then the appropriate r and l drums can interchange so right front to right front or left rear to left rear you cannot use the 7 passenger drums. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

found this item on the ebay that also might work for but is not factory but will go around the steering tube to give a clean look at the floor enter this in the ebay search: FLOOR MOUNT for Steering Column street rod interior chrome model t ford 1932FLOOR MOUNT for Steering Column street rod interior chrome model t ford 1932 the cost is about 75 but then you do not have to remove the shaft to installthe seal and adapts to the angle of the column and this could be mounted on the outside of the floor mat or carpet if you have this in your car. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I will check my hollander book. The 39 Dodge uses lug nuts and the 39 Desoto/Chrysler user lug bolts. I think idf my memory is correct the upto 1948 Dodge car will interchange. But 39 dodge used right hand nuts on all 4 drums. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Dave: Since I have the tool why would you want to make one. You can borrow mine if needed and then you know it will work correctly. The cost to make one willhave to be more that the shipping cost. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Thanks for the picture and information on this tool if you ever need to use it let me know. Rich Hartung

yes they both have them in their catalog rich hartung

Ok. Just purcahsed this tool waiting for it to come inthe mail I just purcahsed a Miller Tool number C-875. The tool has a label on it that says 1949 1950 Plymouth Hood Spring removal and install tool. The instructions are printed directly on the tool which looks like a large socket and on one then there are two holes inwhich a rod goes throught to assist witht eh turning of the spring in the direction to remove or install. I looked in my Miller catalogs that I have and can not find any reference to this tool. Would anyone have any pictures in their repiar manuals for a 49-50 Mopar car that shows the use of this tool and any instructions with the tool. The price was to good to pass up on this tool. I fwould figure the same tool could be used on other Mopar hood springs. Once I get the tool I willtry to post some pictures of the tool. If you are trying to remove and install the hood springs and you can use the tool let me know. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

When having a fire place gas insert installed in my house the gas pipeline runs throught my garage and leads to my gas dryer in the hallway behind the gage inner wall. They ran the hardsteel pipe up the wall and then a flexible line to the insert. During the installation of the hard steel line I had them put in a tee and a shut off valve. This is in case if I ever want to put a heater that hangs from the ceiling all i have to to is now hook up the gas line to the heater. It did not cost me any more tohave the extra tee when the install was being done and the technician siad it was a good idea. Rich Hartung

I also agree awesome looking front bumper in how he was able to take the curve of the front gril and then incorporate that into the front bumper. Nice effect and does alot for the car. Keep going with the custom work I like to see the inventive side of what can be done with these older cars and still enhance their overall appearance. Do not worry what the purests think. This is your car and your time and your money so do what makes you happy and just enjoy and drive the car and have fun. If it was not for guys like you we would have never had some of the new fabricatins incorporated into our modern cars. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

headlight rely instruction sheet Will try to post it here I tried to up load the files. ever since we moved to the new formatted forum I can not ever post any pictures or documents. if you want a copy of the instruction then send me an email and I will send you an attachment. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

IN my EIS Brake catalog I can finf a 1953 Dodge truck B-4-K and the brake cylinders are Front r/l EW17789 Rear R/L EW17786. not sure if this is the same. I can not find anything for a B-4-KA. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Don. The two switches are placed after the dimmer switch. This is done so that the relays are used to get the increased volts or power to the lights. I have a double headlight rely and there are separate connections for the low beam and then the high beam. So the headlight switch provides the power to the dimmer switch. You have a direct 10 gage wire from the battery source to power the rely or each relay. Then a line from the low beam contact on the dimmer switch to the single S on the one that will be used for the low beam. Then the H on this unit is attached to headlight bar to the corresponding low beam. Now the low beam rely is doing the work of powering the headlight instead of the electricity going through the headlight switch down to the dimmer switch and then out to the headlight. Then you setup the highbeam rely in the same manner but then you connect to the highbeam connection on the headlight bar. If you are in doubt then I will look to find my instruction sheet. I have had a dual rely on my 39 Desoto for 20 plus years. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Marty: This is Rich Hartung and yes you are correct. I did post a picture of a fan wrench. If you go out to the Ebay and search on snap-on fan blade wrench you will find several and also pictures of them. Go upto my post just after Dons and there isa link to ebay to one of these wrenches. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

These are single light headlight relays. They do make dual headlight relays. H = headlight S= Switch or dimmer switch foot floor board switch and B=Battery. So you would hook up one relay to the low bean and then one for the high beam if you have single lights or if double headlights then one to each light. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

OK here is your answer on how to remove the radiator on a 1940 Plymouth taken out of my motors repair book. 1. remove the hood and water pump 2. disconnect the water outlets hose. bend back the clips which hold the hadlight wires to the radiator core. disconnect the core from the radiator support and lift out the radiator core So here is where a 1940 Plymouth service manual and or a motors repair manual. When you go to your next swap meet look for these books. This will be a very valuable book while you own the car. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

there are several of these fan blade tools onthe bay: Here isa link to see what one of them looks like. Nice to have in the tool box with your car. I had had mone for over 20+ years and have lent this out to other owners when they have to chnage the WP. MAke the job easier and no scrapped knuckles. VINTAGE SNAP ON FAN WRENCH S-9470B 1/2" 12 POINTVINTAGE SNAP ON FAN WRENCH S-9470B 1/2" 12 POINT The wrench is about $25 and well worth the cost in the lack of aggrevation. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Snap-on-S9470-Fan-Wrench-/321287570948?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item4ace3b4604 This one of those wrench that you willnot use every day but when you need it, the cost is well worth it. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

On my 39 desoto I had to take off the fan blade to get the radiator out of the car. I have the side opening hood like a butterfly wings. There is not much room between the fan and the back of the radiator. If I remember correctly the 4 bolts that hold the fan in place are 1/2 inch. They did make a 1/2 socket that was welded onto a flat bar which was about 16 inches long this permitted you yo reachin a get the fan blade bolts out of the hub. I have one and this has saved me from the cut up knickles. The 1/2 inch socket is very shallow. The secreat is to disconnect the gen and then when you use the tool you can spin the blade inthe appropriate direction and hold the tool and the bolts willeither unsrew or screw into the hub. I can take a picture of the tool if you want to see what it looks like. Snap on made some ofthere. Radiator fan blade tool. If you send me your home email then I will send you the picture of the tool sinc e I am having troubles attaching pictures. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

Joe. Is this price including the material? Also does it include all four door panels, seats, panel between the doors and any other area such as the hand pulls that are near the rear doors. Does it also include the kick panel at the bottom of the doors. and also the foot rest at the bottom of the front seat? Are they using a wool mohair or broadcloth from a major supplier. I have seen material from LB go any where from $40-90 a running yard. This is based on if you are using their material that is the correct sytle for your car. So for a four door sedan you are figuring at least 10-12 yards. ALso need to have the door panel boards cut to size figure about 12 each. Does this include fixing any broken springs ans also reting the springs and recovering the springs in burlap like they did inthe old days. So based on what I know and if they are providing all of the material and doing all repairs like they should then 2200-2600 is not a bad price. This is detailed work and no onw really has patterns for our cars so this will all be custom work. JUst take a paint job for an old car is now running 7-10K for a complete strip down to bare metal. Just addeding in my $5.00 woth of input. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com