desoto1939

Here are pictures of the starting position on the testing stand and ending position note the pointer position on the sacle onthe metal plate. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

This stand will not work to test the sisson chokes that were used on the 49 and up Plymouths sin ce the arm is on the other side. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have the Sisson Choke testing stand that was usedd to test to make sure the choke is working properly. The stand has a thermometer on it. You put the choke inthe stand and then rotate the arm to a set position on the scale and use the metal tool that goes into the slot at the base of the choke. Then you pull the pin and the choke if is is working properly will then move to indicate on the sacle if it is within a 10-15 ampunt based onthe current temperature based on the reading on the thermomter. If you can not get the unit to work and you want to send it to me I will put it on my stand to test but you need to pay for the postgae to send it both ways. I also have a power point onthe sisson choke that I did for the AACA annula meeting in Phila I can send you the power point if you send me your home email. No charge for testing the choke. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Even pre-war desotos uses the 25 inch block at least the 37 and up. Rich HArtung

suggestion to get a rubber grommet the size of the hole inthe fram where the wires will pass through. If you can get a rubber ring to fir into the opening then whenthe wires pass throught the hole there will be less chance of the outer covering wearing away aand then cutting in to the wire and then you would get a short. This is just a suggestion. Also if you use wire tires then also get the wire tie tool that wil pull the wire ties up really tight make for a nice clean look and then you also know the wires will not move and the clamps if metal would rust unless you use SS clips. Just a suggestion. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

But that what they had the heat risor on the car to stop the ice effect at the base of the carb. I had this happen when my Heat riser when on my 39 desoto in the winter. So when coming to a stop light I would just pull the throttle cable out to runthe car at a higher rev's. So since you are IN SF did you disconnect the Heater risor? JAmes: In 1976 i rode a bicyle across the USA and then came into Oaklyn Allemdia NAval Station and stayed with a friend of mine. Took me 60 days to cross the us. Left from Williamsburg VA. We came down from Sacarento inthe morning and then spent a week riding inthe SF area before heading back to Philadelphia. SF is a real neat town to visit. Are you on the SF side of the Oaklyn side of the Bay? Rich HArtung

When you did the engine rebuild did you install allnew motor and transmisson monuts? Since you probably had the originals in the car these would have dried out adn the trans rea upper and lower probably would have colapsed. That would be the first place to start> Also not sure but does you engine have a vibration dampener or harmonic balancer as part of the lower pully down near the timing mark. This also might need to be replaced since the rubber inside the unit dries out and then you also get vibrations. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Don> I do not have an answer for that question, but knowin ghte judges they might take a couple of points off. Rich Hartung

Here is a real quick fix use the modern style hose clap the screw type and then clamp the choke down onto the top of the manifold. All you need to do is hold it in place so it does not move also you will need a heat gasket between the manifold and the coke. I think the rods were just brazed onto the manifold. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a drum puller that has all five holes and the hole for the mounting pin. This way I can use all 5 lug bolts to hold the unit to the drum and then get an even pull on the drum works like a charm. Rich Hartung

When we did my glass in the 39 Desoto we did not use the glass setting tape but used the black silicone instead. This also lets you adjust the vent glass to make sure it is in position inthe frame. If you are doing a full restoration and going for AACA and or POC judging then use the setting tape where is will be seen. otherwise use the silicone, just my 2 cents. There is a gentleman in NJ that sells regulators and window channels. I have been to his wharehouse and he has an extensive collection. Seach on regulatorRoy in Mulica Hill NJ. Tell him that rich HArtung with the 39 Desoto sent you. He is a great guy and has been in the business for 25 years. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Mistyping it shold be Hiker not hicker a hicker is someone that has a lot of hic-ups. Rich HArtung

Did you use a local shop or did you go to the internet to get this made. WHo made it for you and approx cost if you want to state the cost. I have been thinking to get a modern DS for my 39 Desoto. I have several complete kits and housings that I am looking to sell to help with the cost of getting the new DS. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here is a picture of the leather cover with the cone also in leather. This was taken off of Ebay Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

The correct Leather cover should have the leather cone stitched to it. The leather cone went into the small end of the housing. The small leather cone wrapped around the shaft the had the ball end. This small cone prevented the grease that was inside the main body from working its way out of the body and into the space between the end of the shaft. So the leather cover by itself yes will keep out the water and dust but the inner cone is also necessary to prevent the grease form going all over the place. I have seen on ebay the leather cover with the cone and then are going for $50 each I have a couple of these complete leather cones. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Here isa picture of the boot that you can use and can get from NAPA for around $20.50. You will need to cut the end that has the large opening down to the first small ring from the end Bellowa. Then this will slip over the end of the UJ Housing. Then take a 10-12 inch plastic zip tie and pullthis tight to hold it in position on the collar of the UJ bbody. The smaller end then attaches to the drive shaft and you can use an 8 inch zip tie to hold this end. Since this is a CV Boot the greae should not affect the rubber. Then when you want to remove the boot you just have to clip the zip tie and you then can work on the inside to grease of check on the unit. Not MoPar original but for a driver this will work and you now have a good solid rubber boot that can collapse as the shaft moves inward and out. and it flexes on the ends I also have saved this as a document and if you send me your home email I will send it to you. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

is there any type of number or letter on these arms. rich hartung

wdoland knows the correct answer so I also assume your were a camper. I camped with my family since I was a young kid. started off tent camping and touring the USA. Then went to an Apacie Tent camper and upgraded to a Starcraft. HAd alot of fun and good memories was a member of the Natioanl Campers and Hickers Assoc. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The location is important. The electirc pumps are ment to be a pusher style pump and not a puller style. So they need to be located as close as possible to the fule tank to push the fuel upto the carb. ALso usea kill switch for these when not inuse. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Modern CV joint rubber boot that can be adapted to fit the Pin and trunion driveshaft. I found that a napa 686-1073 CV rubber boot kit has the small opening to be about the proper size. The large end will require to have the first ring cut back inoder for the rubber to go around the small end of the housing . This will also reguire the pin to be removed to get the boot on first. Use either a plastic strap to get the rubber tight against the housing. These CV rubber are fresh stock Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I think he has a combination of the Pin and Trunion on the front and the cross style on the rear I know the 46 had this type of setup. So he would need to still pull the rear and then do the fron because of the four bolts that hold the housing in place. Rich Hartung

Since the early Chrysler and Desoto used the lug bolts there isa peg on the drums to hold the rim on the drum so you can center the rim and then start to thread one of the bolts. You would need to drill a hole so tha the pin could come throught the flange. The Ply/Dodge used the lug nut style so the extra hole is not needed. A good machine shop can dril out the hole in the correct spot on the flange. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Missed seeing this go across the table. But did notice that on several cars the seller did not get his price. The was a dodge that cost the owner 74K it was a newer car not an real old car. There was a limited production run. I can not remember what the car acutally was but he only got a bid of 38-40K. The car was a 2010 Dodge Challanger r/t made by Steve Saleen with a 500HP engine 1 of 2 . with 3k miles on the car. The MSRP was 73K sold for 45100.00 So they took a big cut on this car. Surprised that when you have car wqith this high of a MSRP that you do not at least have a reserve on the car or the MSRP was so overly priced. HAve to also figure the cost to get the car there and they entrance fee to lose money??????? So the buyer got the best part of this sale. So it always doesnot mean if you have a limited car at 100 point that you are going to get your price, being an absolute action he had to sell the car. On Mecumm there was Ford Retractable that have the supercharger ending on 20 cars made the guy only got 125 and the ownere was expecting to get double that and more. Money is still tight and if you have some to spend on a car I stil lthink you can get some good buys on cars that have been restored and the seller is paying allthe cost and you reap the benefits. A 50 Desoto for 60K should have been a perfect+ car for that money. Just went online to BJ: This was a 4 door Sedan, HAd coker radial Wide White wall tires. Seats were recovered. Noticed in the engine they had the wrong battery, should have been a tar top not a modern battery also hoseclamps were modern aligator type. So they bir this car up for charity but then it gives a false sence to any 50 Desoto owner as to what they think their car is worth. Too much money for this car but yes for charity so I understand. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have to agree with some of the other statements. If you have the time, Tools, room, help and experience to restore the car and MONEY to buy the parts then go for the gusto. But if you have to go out an puchase all of the items to get the car back on the road then pass on it. You can find cars that have been restored and the owner wants to get rid of the car and get them at a good price. Just look at the olders cars on Barret JAckson completely all done and they are show cars and can be driven away and the ownere takes a bath on what they get offered for the car. Just my two cents. Rich HArtung

MOOG compnay makes Universal Sway Bar Bushings: Here is a link to their webpage that tells you how yo measure the metal sway bar and how to find the correct modern replacement. http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/Universal-Sway-Bar-Bushings.asp Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com