47 dodge 1.5 ton

Wanted to know the opinion on here for flathead motors. Since I’m relativity new here as of last year. When I was looking for a 25” 265 motor, thought those were hard to come by. I just had a call that yet another (4th) one close to me that is available. This one is not running but am told it ran smooth, good oil pressure and did not run hot when last used. It seems maybe they are more abundant and no real market for them being they are not original to many trucks/cars? Seems to be a lot more 23” out there in use. Wanted some thoughts on value in that condition if that’s appropriate. I do not like to hold parts for myself that most likely will not get used and wish I had calls like that on parts that I really need.

I would expect(4) bolts but could be anything more or less. Not sure what size the bed is or if all steel? I figure about 2000lbs for the one on my 1.5 (steel frame/oak boards). The one on my fathers is all steel and has a dump, that one is well over 4000lbs. I would think a cut off wheel should get those bolts off quickly if rusted/stress bent.

Other than specs, I have often wondered what is the highest cylinder pressure that has actually been measured without mods on any of these engines? The book value ( Massey Ferguson) that I have shows 125-145psi for 1960 ind 265. I measured 135psi cold.

This is the industrial motor I pulled from a 1960 combine. Stamp is on front left. It might be a ‘59 motor though.

I have not pulled mine yet but figure just as easy to lift the cab off.

Thank you for the link, don’t know how clean that they are (I went with diesel). Almost feel like cutting apart and replacing the material. Guess I kind of question if I used diesel to clean and saturate, if the 50w is still needed? Thanks again, Kevin

So I decided to wash my oil bath air cleaners today. I was surprised to see what I’m calling horse hair used for the element? I don’t have kerosene so have a choice— diesel, gas, mineral spirits, simple green, or dawn. Wondering what is the most common and works? Thanks, Kevin

Once verified, please contact me via e-mail @ kbrooks@flowserve.com. I may be willing to go with the order pending a 12v variable speed fan motor that fits in the sheet metal without modifications to heater housing or firewall.

If your wheel is still on, remove that and the inner fender for better access. You will need that to access the valves as well. The manifold on my truck did not have any clearance around the studs, however the 48 and 56 motor I worked on had an oversized hole(much easier!)

Maybe spray a little carb cleaner around gasket areas and bottom of the intake looking for a leak. I had a repaired crack in the intake manifold that I thought was bearings in the pump. Ending up being a vacuum leak.

If there is no clearance around those (2) studs, I would not remove manifold until another is located. If you look at the picture, I cut, and drilled holes towards those studs and soaked oil after hot until they broke loose, saving the studs. Once the manifold was off I was able to remove the studs without ringing them off in the block.

Mine were hung up on the (2) bolts going through exhaust manifold. I pulled the exhaust off of (2) other engines without issue. I believe coolant leaks in there and causes rust over time. I spent a week trying to be delicate using heat & kroil. This was the end result towards the end of the week. (I already had another manifold in case this happened) note; I did not ring and studs off in the block.

Rustoleum is some trick paint to use. Don’t know if that can be applied to a new/soft coat without wrinkling. I have made that mistake in the past and have since steered away if it is something important. Always seemed to work on projects that I never gave much thought towards. I know it is hard to use with primer, and recoats need to be made in a short window.

I believe he is referring to a paper card as it is plenty abrasive. I have been under the opinion for years that when the points fail, make a switch. My local Napa does not have a good quality blue streak anymore. Since the points are currently working in my truck, I have not switched to pertronix, just figured that one day there will be a need. I think it is the last point ignition that I have. I am very surprised with the disappoint and many prefer points. Good conversation, thanks!

So I have to ask where everyone buys a good point and condenser?

You said the pertronix quit? Might be dumb to ask— plugs show a hot spark when grounded to motor? I know you said it’s firing through carb. Just wondering why the pertronix failed? I have those switched on some old tractors and have never seen one go bad without a contributing factor like grounding? Have had other issues that I thought was related to ignition but always was something else in the end. Just a thought.

I used ultra copper sealant on all manifold threads. I believe this kind of lubricates the threads, keeps from rusting fast, and helps keep any vibrations from loosening things up. It is also heat resistant and provides sealant for the block side to help prevent antifreeze leaks. I have been using it for my old tractor manifolds for years and the studs can still be reused after the manifolds burn out. JMO

Jumping back to the idea of changing material for the bushings, if someone went to another material, I’d recommend SAE 841 oil impregnated bronze. I work in the heavy industrial pump business and bearing material improvement is closely monitored. I have been involved with testing rotating equipment with almost any new trade material offered over the last 25 years or so and believe this would suit best for the application.

Is there a valve spring on #3? Picture is hard to see, but don’t see it. With the valve covers off, did you see if there was approx .012” clearance (just to confirm a valve has not dropped)? Think you are getting there— just have extreme patience. If you haven’t already, may want to put more MM in each cylinder and blow some air in the spark plug holes(help it get to the valves when each one is open) while rotating by hand.

There is a plug in the head over #6 that you can use for timing. When I started, being cautious about wringing something off as my plug was very tight. I put my finger over #1 hole until a felt compression coming up, with the dist cap off, looked for a spark shortly after in the point and I observed where rotor was pointing, that established #1. That should get you close if dis had not been moved but will ensure you have fire @ #1. Again— I used a hand crank and had already checked compression readings with plugs out and then verified spark firing order to all six plugs.

For a motor that has sat over period of time, backfire can be any number of things. Bad fuel, vacuum leaks, carb plugged, ignition, timing, stuck valves, fouled plugs, would be the first to iron out. As said, I would pull plugs and get an idea of compression( don’t be disappointed if some are really light around 50psi or so) If good move forward with checking spark/timing while plugs are out. If both check good, move towards fuel & carb. If still good, start looking for vacuum leaks. If your car has a hand crank, take advantage of it, best tool IMO. You can feel a lot of what the engine is doing without force. You may need to get familiar with MM oil, Kroil, ATF or some special creative blends. I would not advise ripping things apart until you know the issue.

Thank you, I have been pecking away little at a time. When I first picked it up, I had big plans for a BB or Cummins. After going to many shows and all were rodded up , made a decision to keep the flathead for awhile. Still working out some gremlins but am enjoying this truck more than some cars I have had over the years.

Just a picture I took this morning.

Took a picture after a Sunday drive.

Your first statement was what I wanted to confirm. I believe it’s tuning, possibly need to pull carbs apart and take a look. Seems very smooth throttling up and extremely responsive. After a few quick stokes, I’m getting a pop here and there. One item that I had uncertainty in—the gaskets under the carb. I could not find the exact thickness, so I made my own. Not sure I needed the notches and if they needed to be a certain depth. (I put notches in that may not be used for these carbs).That may explain the slightly rough idle.