47 dodge 1.5 ton

This one does not have a heat plate that swivels, only the (2) holes.

Thought I would update progress, day 5, have the intake off without any damage, exhaust —I have decided to go with a very aggressive approach. This would not have came off by soaking for years. I have cut, chipped, drilled holes, soaked, added heat and still going. Here are some pictures.

I have several hours in split days so far, nothing broke yet. I have managed to get 3 of 4 heat riser bolts out so far as well. Had to cut the tops off and drive down after soaking and heat. Not sure if it’s worth all the work trying to salvage the intake manifold as it has been welded from the top side only by PO. Don’t think this one has ever been off or they sprayed all holes with a rusting agent! This is the 3rd one I have pulled and by far the worse, had one off in 5-10 minutes. All others had some clearance around the studs that’s why I was questioning if there were some type of inserts originally used? Just getting schooled on patience this week I guess. Thanks for the replies, Kevin

Sorry to pull this off topic, appreciate the update.

I didn’t know that, I know he mentioned he wasn’t feeling up to par shortly before our visit, we have been lucky down here, just starting to get cases close to home. I think we have spoke on the phone around the end of November. How long was he in the Hospital?

My father and I was up to see him on the 13th of November— the Plymouth was running plenty healthy as well was Mr Asche?

I was up to see George Asche about a month ago and went for a ride in his ‘50 Plymouth w/230. Very mild motor with dual Ball & Balls, head milled slightly. That car will run 65mph all day and 85 if you need to. He does have an O’drive installed. Unless someone needs to be drag racing, that 230 makes plenty of power for a car/ pickup in that weight range and runs smooth. If you really want to keep the clutch/brakes & wheels, I would do the 230 and add an OD trans. That’s only my opinion!

I looked at a ‘52 truck that is for sale near me for a heck of a lot more with a bad motor and poor bed. Any of these will be a project, that’s what makes it “fun” IMO, all of the dreams while you work on them. You will appreciate what you have so much more when finished. Best of luck!

Nice Jeep- I had a little chuckle as a “horse owner as well” seeing that shoe on the grille, looks like she may have marked it?.

The (2) studs that go through the exhaust manifold have a point on them, what is that used for and why is there no clearance hole around the stud? I removed the nuts on these but think this is my main culprit? Hard to see in picture through mirror, but you can see the point.

I have 13 nuts (9/16 wrench) removed, none of (4) from heat plate.

Just was wanting to know if there are any tricks when trying to remove the intake/ exhaust manifold as one unit? Seems to be “bolt bound” and unable to get the manifolds split under the carb. I have all nuts/ washers off except heat riser, no studs came out which is now causing me some pain. Have been at it with a torch, kroil, hammer, and chisel for several hours with no progress. Biggest stud issue is the (2) that go through the exhaust. Just don’t want any broken studs or manifolds if possible. Thank you, Kevin

Thank you Walt, I could not find the picture on his website however, I ordered them with the water plates. If they fit without major modifications, I will be able to use the stock carb linkage which will be a big plus. I am also wondering how the water plate seals off the access stud holes? I may need to weld a half moon in there and use sealant once the headers are installed. I will post a picture once I have them installed. Thanks again, Kevin

Has anyone used the Langdon headers and will they work with the factory dual carb truck intake? Thanks, Kevin

Truck that I am working on, I’ll have to redo the doors though.

Talking about aspen station wagons— my father special ordered one as well in cream, 225 super six(had a 2 barrel), 4spd with OD. He loved that car. I remember when our family picked it up at the dodge dealer. It had a Volare badge on one fender and an Aspen badge on the other. It was pouring rain that night and water ran strait down from the windshield on my fathers best shoes. He was really upset at the time. Turned out to be a great car as my learner and was full of rust by 1982 as well. I have had Cuda’s, dusters, and 340 demons, think I would love for a ‘64 Belvedere, 4spd and a 426 wedge sucking from (2) 4’s! Still love old trucks though as well.

The best designed ones we have had over the years were made of 3 pieces of frame material (u-channel). (2) pc’s dropped down from the each frame rail approx a foot on a slight 15 degree taper, setting hitch closer to tail end and (1) pc welded to the bottom with a draw bar or receiver hitch welded on top. That is how I am going to fab one for my ‘47. I have enough frame behind the rear spring hangers to make something work. The goose neck will be a harder fab and truck sits a little too high in my opinion. The goose neck receiver on my late model dodge has a drop pocket (approx 6”) cut down through half the bed length and the truck sits much lower already. I will be watching what you come up with. Kevin

I really appreciate the pictures! It helps “learn me up”as I haven’t seen all the different variations that were available. My pictures flip as well and I am using an older I-phone. Thanks again for spending time posting them! Kevin

I know I could use the brake set-up and possibly the top if yours fairly tight. Unfortunately, don’t think I’ll be able to transfer much from the 4spd from looking at your pictures.

These are more pictures, it does have (3) head gears for 3rd, 4th, and 5th.

Is there anyway you can get pictures of the hand brake set up on the side and back with a tape measure in the picture? Also trying to figure out how the shifter removes from the top housing as it’s different from the 4spd?

The granny low gears are real nice backing up loaded, moving around the fields with a load or wagon ect.. All of our Dodge farm trucks have been set up this way over the years except my 2006 3500 6spd Cummins— and backing up with a loaded trailer is just painful. Adds to a lot of hopping on the tail end. The ‘47 doesn’t have a 2spd rear to help accommodate as well. No— this is not an actual synchronized transmission, just better than strait gears, they are helix cut with I believe (3) head gears for improved alignment so thinking that would be 3rd, 4th, and 5th.

Yes, I will most likely need to address the parking brake, hoping I can switch over from the 4 speed. Drive shaft to the carrier brg will need shortened and changed to later style yoke. I appreciate all thoughts, I like to evaluate issues before any cutting takes place. This is just an enhancement, not a necessity but think it may be worth the switch so far. Thanks, Kevin

I’ll be gaining a granny gear, slower reverse, and a little easier shifting over the strait cut gear 4 speed. High gear will still be 1.00: 1 ratio so don’t think I loose much on top except the extra weight. I’m just not sure about altering this truck as it is really nice to be hacking up.

Has anyone installed a 5spd in one of these trucks? I picked up a transmission and bell housing and did some measuring this evening. As the 5spd is longer, I’m wondering if it‘a necessary to cut the frame support making clearance for the trans brake? Also looks like the shifter will be located about 7” forward of the 4spd hole in floor. Transmission is stamped 1948 on top. Thanks for any thoughts