47 dodge 1.5 ton

Spent a little time the last few days working some wood down to replace my old bed. Thought I’d share a progress picture and get any advice as I’m just starting to drill and bolt down the deck. I am using 2 1/4” thick white oak and matching the original holes in the bed to avoid Swiss cheese in the metal. I already know the bolt spacing will not be perfect as they were “some what” random drilled without a gig when bed was made. Plan on using boiled linseed oil when the weather warms up a little so I can repair marks over the next few years. I’m no carpenter by trade so open to any advice as I continue.

Why not use the 8 3/4” mopar rear? I always wondered why many on here go 8 1/4” or 9 1/4”?

Very nice looking set-up! I’m not out in the shop this am but think my pump looks different from what you have on there? I tried to put the front header on and couldn’t, so removed the pump and plated off, not a big issue in my mind. I thought they looked like a very nice quality product and decided to go that route over the factory dual manifolds. I am actually more concerned about valve cover clearance as I need to adjust one valve on #4 that keeps moving but think I can get in there.

I’m not sure on the 23”, I only have fit them up to the 25” motor I’m working on. They may have slightly cleared without the fuel bowl on the pump, but don’t like how close that would be with heat transfer.

Yes, I bought the cast iron manifold/ headers from Langdon’s and they fit well to the factory intake. Only down side so far is losing the fuel pump and I needed to make special tabs to hold the manifolds. For now, I’m going to keep the factory split exhaust manifolds, may change my mind down the road.

Yes, for the 25” motor. Picture was a mock up. Just had them bead blasted and installing this evening. I am choosing to use Langdon’s Headers over the factory exhaust for now and see how this works out.

I am adding the second one to my truck as we speak! I’ll take any of the “throw away” B & B’s you guys may have.. lol

Nice truck! Do you know what it has for a drive train yet?

Thanks guys— sure would like to know how it would work. Maybe I’ll find out one of these days being I have a front end to rebuild. This tool box is marked “Mopar tools” although I did find a few paper 16ga shotgun shells in there too!

My great uncle passed some years ago and left behind a toolbox full of specialized tools that he had, some I don’t recognize the purpose. He had worked for Dodge/Chrysler from the late 20’s through the early sixties. From my fathers stories, he spent a lot after hours bootlegging on speed boats as he lived in Cambridge,Md ( along the Chesapeake). I am going through some of these tools and will post the ones that look “specialized”

Thanks for the pictures, those with the wood or bone knobs really look sharp. I don’t think I have the fresh air option, truck seems to have plenty between the window and vent that opens up. I guess just running the fan may even add something as well.

Does anyone know with a gauge what the stock mechanical pump produces? Does it do the same at idle verses 2000 rpm? I am going to need this route and was looking at 12v pumps.

I had a pleasant surprise today show up at my shop door! This is the heater that will soon be in my truck since someone else liked the original heater that belonged in there. Now— question is what heater controls do I need and where do they belong in the truck?

I have been pondering this for awhile and have never seen any pictures of Right hand drive trucks. I noticed my frame is drilled for RH and was wondering if all were made that way?

Ok, back to the drawing board. I bought those from e-bay and they look to be 1 size too small. The major dia of mine will need to fit 1 1/8” shaft unless the threads are turned down. Just a quick check, the outside housing of the tie rod (currently on truck)measures 1 3/8”, the new (still in box)ones that match the part number correctly are only 1 1/8”. It is possible that they were switched I guess? Does anyone have a Wf 1.5 ton that can measure the drag link shaft size? From what I can tell, my truck does match everything on the register for a ‘47 WF 1.5 ton except being manufactured in LA California. Thank you, Kevin

Glad to know that works, I was going through some old flat head tools and looking for something like that just in case I would need it down the road.

So how does that work on Cylinder #4 behind the manifold and still need to remove keepers?

Odd that comes up for LA, Ca— tag says Detroit?

Thank you both!

This is a picture of the front

I think it is a WF, I’m not sure if it is any other letters as I can barely read the tag. I am mostly guessing by the grill and it looks like 13700 GVW the best I can read the tag.

What information did they need? Original part number? I’m guessing these are a standard size then? I have never dellt with them prior, I’ll give them a call. Thank you, Kevin

Looking for some help. I need to rebuild the front end on my ‘47 1.5 ton truck. Are these somewhat universal to something else as I have not been able to locate them. I didn’t want to tear apart anything until I find a good source for replacements. This is one item that an aftermarket upgrade could be used in my opinion. I will also be replacing king pin bushing but think that I should be able to make those if new ones are not available. Thank you, Kevin

I was nervous on this one as well. Back in the spring when I bought this truck the PO said is was real weak the last time they ran it 20 years ago. From what I understood, no one had been in the engine before including adjusting the valves. I could see weld on the intake and they had swapped carbs to a Holley. After I had the engine running, it was losing power when hot and noticed a vacuum leak when warmed up. I decided I would not touch anything until I had replacement parts in case I would have this trouble. After pulling some replacement parts (manifolds) thought I would be in the clear. I think this goes much easier if the motor had been touched somewhere in life. My advice— just have a plan.

Day 5– exhaust manifold is off and in pieces, not sure what can be salvaged there. Good news was that I have (1) of the long bolts out as well. Now the 2nd could be a task as it doesn’t budge yet with heat, next to the welder I guess.