billrigsby

Well Dang! Was looking in the wrong place, looked through the parts manual and found... Do not like the options, guess it could be worse..... My Willys had 4.11s and would climb a wall if it could keep traction, had to put an overdrive in it just to not get run over on the highway, oh well just go around me. ? Brake cylinders tomorrow.

How do you find someone on EBay selling something you need that's within driving distance, what a find. Everything I always find is halfway across the country, and being in the middle of the country that's a long drive in both directions. ?

Okay I have to ask are these acronyms or just names, FEF, TODD? ?

Yes, however the only part in there was the slave cylinder, no brakes no springs no nothing, baffling

Is this what you mean, sorry, been years (25+) since I have had doors off. Have hinges in the crates, but almost dark. If this is what you are saying, I doubt it will come out, I see no way to remove and replace. Door adjustment is done 'by force'.....

This plate? I know of no other 'in the cab pillar', one upper and one lower.... If not please post a picture?

Like this, similar, just all inside the door.....

This is what I started with 30 some years ago, not sure if it is still available, Dupont DP40 Primer is NOT ☹️

Was looking to find the ratio of the rear end, this was the only markings I can find, wonder if they mean anything to anyone, may need to pull the cover and count. Also decided to clean and check the drums, I had put a thick coat of grease on them 30 some years ago, for the most part they look okay, one rear has some rust to emory cloth out. The brake slave cylinders do not look like they have stood the test of time all that well, knocked one of the rear pistons in and saw some rust, will need to remove all of them and inspect, possibly replace/repair I cannot for the life of me explain what has caused this wear ring on the inside of one of the rear drums, there are no innards, just wheel cylinders? Nothing on the inside has any wear marks, it has to be recent (rolling in and out of the shop) or it should be rusty? It also looked like there were marks in the grease.

This is a 48, Not even sure if they are the same, is this the part? If it is, yes it comes out.

I was in error, I thought the radiator mounted to the front of the U-Mount, it does not. Had to go back to some hand scribbled notes I made during disassembly before I had any books. The welded nuts on the sides are for the sheetmetal panel that the front clip bolts to, the three on the rear are for the radiator and I show the fronts 'not used?'

Hi Bill, I'll ask him but like you heard, he doesn't do assembly so I figured I would ask around here first. Was nice to meet you today. Maybe one of these days we'll be together at a show, but that'll be a few years off for me I think.

Looks like we're getting close, looking for recommendations on what Lube to use for engine assembly? Locally we have Napa, Advanced and AutoZone, and of course there's eBay and Amazon. Thanks

Mine (48 B-1-D) has neither, that is for the radiator mounting, correct? Mine had the J-Clip Captured Bolts.... But to mount the radiator they will need to be on the other side if you are going welded nuts.

Dropped off the last bit of parts today at Rocky Mountain Machine, ran into Bill Schwindt a member of the Dodge Pilot-house Era Truck Club of America. Had a nice talk and saw some photos of his trucks. Was please to see good progress, may be ready for pickup next Friday, not sure where the two months out I was told. Definitely not going to complain about an early Christmas present ?.....

Chrysler dealer promotional sales film library.pdf View File Link to the Chrysler dealer promotional sales film library on http://www.mymopar.com/ Chrysler dealer promotional sales filmstrips were created by Roy Ross and used as training material for dealer salesmen and as a sales tool for potential customers. These filmstrips were complete with narration which described the standard and optional features of Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth and Desoto cars and trucks. Today these filmstrips are a valuable source of information for the modern day Chrysler vehicle enthusiast. Submitter billrigsby Submitted 10/29/2020 Category Marketing Brochures  

Chrysler Master Tech Service Conference program library.pdf View File Link to the Master Tech Service Conference program library on mymopar.com MTSC Training material from 1947-1975 Submitter billrigsby Submitted 10/29/2020 Category Reference Information  

I found some more information from a post 'Shaving a 218 head vs. a standard 230 head?' December 3, 2017 Seems the NOS head has a smaller chamber volume, being for a 218, how will that work in a 230? Sounds like 230 pistons are right at or very close to the deck at TDC and 218's are 'a couple of 32nds' below. Wonder what the CR would be with the NOS head? It will need some milling 'cleanup' due to rust, but minimal.

I remember when my 48 1 ton was in a similar state, it's gotten a little further. I do like those rear view mirrors, very interesting I've never seen those before. You'll get there, keep plugging along.

I found some information on applications based on the casting numbers, still not too sure. Is there a difference between a 218 and a 230 head? May need to do some volume measurements. Looks like the NOS head is a 218, hope that does not matter. And the third head is from the original engine.

I have been dropping off bits at the machine shop as they get in. Friday I am bring the NOS Crank and NOS Head down to be hot tanked. Looked over the three 23" heads I have and all have different casting numbers, wondering how to ID and determine differences, if any from those numbers? NOS Head D34 230ci Dodge Car Dodge 6 Custom 1950 T306 218ci Dodge Truck B-3-B, B-4-B 1951-1953 or Original B-1-D Truck Engine (that I have determined was not stock)

Has any one used Motor Coater Engine Enamel? Wonder if the Aluminum is a close match? Ordered a sample, we'll see. Motor Coater

As I am in no rush, a Snap-On socket was ordered this AM, $16 vs Bunging up the jet (a no brainer). I am hoping this will be a viable carb once rebuilt, seems very sound at this point. Just had to do some minor 'white rust' clean up on the inside, and bead-blast the outside to have it looking sharp. There is a NOS on EBay, but at $400 and will probably need a rebuild being so old, I'll try this route first.