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billrigsby

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Everything posted by billrigsby

  1. Wow that would be fun, and would bring back a lot of memories. Used to drive through Clements every time I would go from San Jose to Mount Aukum to visit my sister. That's the same area where I got my truck from, Omo Ranch California. Mom sold the house in San Jose so now, being in Colorado, I come through Lake Tahoe, but still not far from my sister's house. And now Moms in Placerville. We'll see
  2. I've seen several different references in several different threads about keeping this patina, personally, I like a nice prime coat and then a nice color coat. Personal preference
  3. Been way back in the 90's when I re-did mine, and they looked much worse than yours, and don't remember a bushing. This is from the parts book; Seems only the larger trucks had a bushing. From the Service Manual;
  4. Super MacGyver! I don't know how I have missed this post in the past but I sure did but I'm following it now, awesome job on all of them.
  5. Victory is yours, yes they can be a pain in the butt.
  6. If I remember correctly back to the late 80s early 90s, I think I used a Dremel cut a couple small slots in both sides of the bushing and then hammered it out with a chisel. Mine was pretty dang stock also.
  7. Well technically I would agree, since I bailed out of there almost 25 years ago but that's where my truck is currently registered, non-operational and since I have YOM plates I'm keeping it registered there. As much as it will pain me to write them a check on a yearly basis once my vehicle is up and running.
  8. The major holding effect is done with the swaging of the stud into the emblem's softer metal, JB Weld is just added insurance, seems to be pretty strong, after all it is only a hood emblem and only one of the three mounting points. Time will tell. ?
  9. I do not see why you could not omit it, you may need shorter bolts for the yoke, I am sure if its been done you will get a comment.
  10. Poking around on the web, came across CALPLATES.COM, they reproduce 1920 1995 car and truck plates along with 1936-1993 motorcycle plates. These are done with .9mm aluminum. Oddly enough, located in Delaware. The obvious disclaimer is there; All products sold on Calplates.com are sold for novelty and artistic purposes only and purchasers or persons and/or entities receiving products marketed by Calplates.com shall not use products for official purposes. This means license plates sold on Calplates.com can be only used as photography props, wall hangers, applies to motor vehicles in museums, automotive show vehicles, vehicles filmed for advertisements, Television shows and serials and motion pictures. Art galleries and car collectors may also use products sold on Calplates.com as an application on motor vehicles which are not driven on public roads or highways. Art galleries may also use products marketed on Calplates.com or individually or multiple units as works of art for display. Purchasers are responsible for customization which can be letters, words, symbols or a combination thereof. Calplates.com and its affiliates and/or Assigns are not responsible for any misuse of products purchased from this website. I plugged in my digits, I noticed the font was not correct for the 7 and 2 and it was promptly corrected. Decided to order one, the quality is extremely good. They are off a tad bit on the location of the 19 and 47, but for a 'perfect' looking plate for show purposes, excellent. Just FYI
  11. What a difference a month makes, very happy for you. ?
  12. This is a second one on EBay with a good shot of the bottom the other one looks similar but they don't have as good a shot of the bottom. EBay Those bad boys are a bit pricey.
  13. Looks very similar to one on EBay; 1941 Plymouth Commercial Car Pickup Models: PT-125 Styles: Pickup EBay
  14. Gave it a shot with the half-an-emblem, made the stud area flat and also flattened the end of the swage screw. The swage screw measured at .21", drilled a .199" hole, filled the hole with JB Weld and pressed the screw into the hole. I had a small depression due to the depth the screw went in, added a small washer turned down to fit the hole and added JB Weld. Set it all in a vice to cure A washer on both sides of the hood panel and tightened it up, as far as 'proof of concept' seems it will will work fine, I am only replacing one on the end of each emblem. Pressing the screw in, it seemed to go too easy, will try a slightly smaller hole for the final ones. will also take down more of the emblem metal and make a larger and thinner 'cut to contour' washer.
  15. Went digging around in the shop, may have found an answer. I have a bunch of swage screws (4-40) and nuts (4-40 and 6-32). I will try the screw, after installed, with a washer on both sides all the pulling stress of tightening the nut will be on the screw itself and none on the emblem. There is a raised spot on the back of the emblem, I will take it down enough to compensate for the thickness of the washer and should be good to go. Not sure what to use besides the force of the screw head in the softer emblem metal, may try one with Loctite first, I have a ‘half of an emblem’ to start with first then maybe try one with JB Weld. YES, too much time on my hands, I know the emblem tape would work, removal can be a real pain, have de-badged a few cars before.
  16. They are out there, $35 used/rough, $60-100 NOS and $70 Repo I'll see what I can do first ?
  17. I have four of the side hood emblems one still has all three studs Two are missing, of course the end studs One is missing, yes both end studs Does anyone have experience or suggestions on repair? There may be enough metal to drill and tap a significantly smaller thread and insert a stud with Loctite, but being pot metal not sure how well that would work. I don't see JB Weld working?
  18. Sorry I just looked at your picture again that's different than a 48, there are no splines, is it already keyed?
  19. You may be able to chase those threads or recut them, or just shorten it and turn it down from 3/4 to 5/8 and recut 5/8 18 threads. Of course you would lose your splines for the steering wheel but you may be able to key it. Just thinking out loud.
  20. Finally, now that the Holidays are over getting back at some of this. Reassembled the carburetor today. Its been sitting on the counter for months. Glad I took a lot of photos during dis-assembly because this diagram is the pits Wish there was a way to 'bench-test' so there are no surprises later on. ?
  21. While I'm not sure about how lock washers or split washers would affect torque ratings or values, yes they do belong there, this is from the parts manual, and I also just went to check the block and associated parts that I got back from the Machine Shop which was stock and it does have lock washers.; Here's some basic Fastener information; 10 tricks engineers need to know about fasteners
  22. These are the controls used if you also have the fresh air option..... Without the fresh air option the TEMP and AIR are omitted and blanked off.
  23. Looking very good, what kind of primer are you shooting? I did that once back in the seventies it did not go that well, was spraying 65 Mini Cooper, I guess I had too big of an exhaust fan, one side of the plastic came loose from the staples I had in the rafters Needless to say it just laid down right on the top and side of the car. @#$%^** One step forward two steps back.
  24. I think he was confused by your sequence ? I had not seen this, any idea what manual this was from, I see no reference on any of the pages? here is a link; Truck Manual
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