billrigsby

The rest of the sheet metal was next.....

Turning our attention to the sheet metal now..... This was scribbled on the left side of the engine bay, always wondered just what it was, should I duplicate it? Towards the end of 1992, Mom and Dad were planning a trip to Arizona, and were nice enough to haul this rusty mess to Redi-Strip for a non-acid dipping to get it ready for primer. I may have pleaded quite a bit, but what is a small trailer behind that Big-Ol van? Saved quite a bit of time with the bead blaster, and clean up of all that media, here she is primered..... + Remember that 'bird bath' roof we had, it is taking shape.....

NOS Running Boards, not perfect, but 1000 times better than the stock ones, seems someone liked 'dragging' the old ones across trees and rocks. I got the NOS 81" Running Boards, T306 Engine, NOS Head, Heater for $300 and $235 Shipping. Time to start the assembly.... Axles in place (what is that thing on the wall to the left of the chassis?)..... Brake and Fuel lines installed..... We now have a rolling chassis, albeit, with out rubber.

Springs are next, since I have the bead blaster at my disposal..... Bead blasting, in hind-sight I probably should have dis-assembled them, too late now..... Primered and painted..... NOS Spring Bolts for the rear, pretty sure I found them for the front also, but can not find a photo, I think several photos are in limbo somewhere!.....

Time to tackle the frame, borrowed a 'big boy' compressor for the bead blasting, no way our 3.5 HP / 25 Gal Craftsman will be up to the challenge..... Frame on it's cart..... Frame bead blasted..... Frame primered..... Frame painted..... Just a side note, all primered pieces were shot with Dupont DP40 Epoxy Primer and all gloss black were shot with Dupont Imron polyurethane-based enamel paint. I know DP40 or 401 is not available anymore due to lead content, not sure if there is a viable alternative? Still have a half gallon, need to be sparing with that. Not sure about the Imron.

YES!, another older project, some of us thought we were the only ones with 'stalled' projects, Good Luck to you also.

Steering wheel restoration, as you can imagine or may have seen, a forty year old steering wheel is usually in no shape for use, pits and cracks. This was an invaluable resource to guide me through this process..... Here, all the bad areas have been filed down to the metal steering wheel band..... Next, filled with PC-7® Paste Epoxy..... After LOTS of sanding, refilling, sanding, did I mention LOTS of sanding, you have something worthy of primer..... + Managed to keep the part number intact, no cracks there fortunately..... Several coats of Gloss Black Imron, and wet sanding down to 1000 grit, you have a 'like new' steering wheel..... Horn button installed and finished steering wheel.....

Rear axle repair, disassembled..... All the bits primered and painted, some of the new seals..... Ready to go back together..... New brake cylinders.....

Front axle repair, original spindles showed cracks when magnafluxed, so found another pair, checked out good..... Primered and painted..... All the other bits primered and painted, new king pins, bushings, seals, etc..... (still missing one of the correct U-bolts!) New wheel cylinders..... Front axle reassembled..... Steering box and mount primered and painted.....

Original wiring harness removed..... Recreated, using the correct cloth covered, color coded wire, but with a modern plastic sleeve.....

I was thinking that was the original, one has 25'" scribed into the cap, so I knew it was not that one, one V-A Dist was on the Car engine disassembled 2 months ago, I know (think) I should have had a fourth but did not find it when I did the inventory earlier this year. That will be the one I go with. The IAO-4002-1 with out V-A is by far in the best shape. Thanks to all.

Yep, that's pretty, and a decent price to pay for modern cooling and as you mentioned I've never found a radiator shop that could paint LOL

I have three distributors, not sure the best route to go, thats the problem piecing an engine together from different sources. Two have vacuum advance on does not, the one without is by far in the best shape, one has no ID Tag, anyway to ID it without that? The manual sheds no light, not sure why there is no P/N listed for a B-1-D?

Or OSHA (had to Google L&I) ?

YEP, She's toast..... Pulling the engine, love those old Oak Trees..... Good old tar top battery, minus a few caps, Still have it, not sure why, If it was in the engine compartment might restore it..... Gauges have seen better days, as has most of this truck, 80 MPH on the Speedo? Downhill with a tailwind?..... Dismantled and repainted gauge housings. NOS gauges also, Reset the odometer to 0000.0, I am sure some bureaucrat will just love that!..... Grabbed some black cardboard and re-did a new glove box..... An original headliner (not from my truck) in 'decent' shape MORE TO COME.....

Haha, can you say Okidata Microline, Those were the days dial up and DM printers. BTW, this is the last vehicle I own that I actually have a 'pink slip' for.

I just got back 260 slides from 1987-1988 (roughly) that were digitized, so I can start my build thread. First, Sherman, set the WABAC machine to 1987, Omo Ranch (Mount Aukum), CA This is where my sister and brother-in-law were care taking a ranch owned by his dad. I am yet to determine the exact location, but eventually may find that, basically we are here..... .....and I spy a truck, not just any truck, this thing has a 'hell-of-a' long bed, bubble fenders, bullet holes, a birdbath for a roof and potential! I have never been one to find a project that had a ding here or there, or an engine with a miss, no I go into full rescue mode. So after long negotiations over several, and I mean SEVERAL rum and cokes, for $25 I am the proud owner of a 1948 Dodge 1 Ton (B-1-D 126)..... .....Whatever That Is, What the hell did I just do, At least it is not a tattoo! Well this is her, in all her Original Glory..... After the engine removal, even the hood ornament has bullet holes! TO BE CONTINUED.....

Daytona Parts Co. - Carburetor Kit 2303 - Stromberg BXV and BXVD Instructions.pdf View File Daytona Parts Co. - Carburetor Kit 2303 - Stromberg BXV and BXVD Instructions Including float gauge 'cutouts' with scale Submitter billrigsby Submitted 11/02/2020 Category Instructions, Manuals & Templates  

Bars-Leak - KIDDING!! Two good tanks, a drive through the mountains, whata day

Wow that's too bad, I hope mine is okay I like the style of the core on these old radiators, almost honeycomb-like. I've got a spare but it's not a factory core and I think I've got another set of tanks, but I want that original one to be good.

See Below....

Wow $400 each for front drums, I'm glad I got a complete pair, kingpins, spindles and everything that was just basically 'cutting torched' off the front axle. The current set, front and rear were turned like everything else about 30+ years ago, and fortunately they're in good shape. I guess at this point I'll just use the shoes I have (mostly to test the Integrity of the wheel cylinders) and start making a list of who has what available and also check on the cost to have what I have relined.

Yes, pretty sad, but after sitting 30+ years could have been worse. My dad never replaced wheel cylinders either, I actually used his old hone to get the job done. Job done, fingers crossed, at least I know these are quality USA made cylinders. Wonder, what does everyone do about shoes, reline, source of quality replacements? My rears have plenty of meat left, fronts are getting down there. For now I will reassemble the old ones (in case of a leak), but we are years out before a 'road test'

Went through all the brake cylinders this AM, disassembled, honed, cleaned and reassembled. I think I will be okay with them, we'll see if there are any leaks. the one from the right rear was the worst (same wheel that had the rusty drum). Also need to replace one of the cups, has a small nick in it.