Sniper

So you are saying you do not want a roiling boil then? All you really need is some very hot water, if it's boiling profusely you won't see the float bubbling.

Not too sure vintage powerwagons is going to be a source for a lot of stuff, not sure many PW's came with the Hemi. But, here's a link to a source for engine stuff. http://hothemiheads.com/dodge/index.html

That is a fairly esoteric statement. Care to elucidate upon how it shows you where the hole is?

She would be in the passenger seat, ducking and running LOL

Wow that's a crowd. We only have eight at our place

That is the truth. I came home from work once and my 51 was half in the road half in my driveway and I don't have a steep driveway at all. Well technically you can't get caught. LOL

Somebody's got to say it. Merry Christmas to all y'all.

With the engine running watch the ammeter turn on the headlights you should see the needle flick towards discharge momentarily until the generator catches up. Or turn the engine off turn the headlights on and the needle will go towards discharge

It might behoove you to look at the hot rod industry they make a lot of trunk openers that are designed to be adapted to just about any application. Sometimes you get lucky and you can find later model parts that'll fit. For example I put in an electric trunk opener in my 72 Dart it came out of a 79 Cordoba and bolted right in the only thing I really needed to do was wire the switch. Unfortunately I have no idea what may or may not work in your application⁸

A funny semi-related story when my oldest daughter, who is now 40, it's learning to drive I had an 87 Dodge Diplomat with a four-speed that I put in it so she learned to drive in a stick car. Years later after she had gotten married she was moving and had rented a big U-Haul nobody else there, I was 250 miles away, could drive a stick so she drove it and it was the biggest thing truck U-Haul rented. Well she called me up and said dad what am I doing wrong every time I shift gears it grinds the gears. I told her oh you're driving a non-synchronized gearbox. I never taught her how to shift one of those because I never thought to really. I tried to explain how to do it over the phone and she wasn't getting it So eventually I told her is it your truck? She said no and I said do you care about it? And she said no so I told her grind away, lol. Once she got in town and we unloaded her truck I showed her how to drive a non-synchronous gearbox in that U-Haul. Funny thing is is a couple years later she joined the army and became a mechanic it was the only mechanic who could drive a stick

I don't know what to say I got the receipt from AutoZone RockAuto does List It as available

Well I pulled the trigger. Got me a supercharged XF. 35,000 miles. If you see an old fool flying down the highway with a stupid grin on his face it's probably me.

That line is so you can siphon the tank empty when you go to pull it.

They all use the same timing set, I ordered it from Autozone, they had the best price. SA Gear 73111

Those red and green felt washers that you can buy at this parts store actually work good.

I guess the question now becomes can you get another pressed in zerk fitting? If not I guess you'll have to thread that end cap

I don't know enough to know if it reads lie data or not. The factory too is called DRB scan tool. In Ebay it's in excess of $2k. I did find the user manual online though, It doesn't specifically mention it can read OBD1 sensors

Wow, I don't think you could buy the hot rod parts for anywhere near what he's asking for the whole car.

The PCM sensor uses 5v from the PCM, it sends a voltage back to the PCM that varies depending on it's temperature and the PCM interprets that returned voltage as a temperature reading. OBD1 is not nearly as sophisticated as OBD2. Example: Coolant temp reads 50F, ambient reads 70F, intake air temp reads 125F. All are "valid" temperatures as far as the range of over all expectations go. After 5 minutes of running the coolant temp doesn't change. OBD1 thinks "it's in a valid range", OBD2 says "wait a minute", OBD2 knows that value should have gone up and based on load, run time, ambient temps and intake air temps has a pretty good estimation of where it should be and if it's not there will throw a code. OBD1 will not as it doesn't do that type of calculations. Now if the coolant temp sensor returns an invalid signal, such as not having 5v going to the sensor, OBD2 will throw a code. OBD1 might. This is really where being able to view the live data from that sensor comes in handy, One thing I found when putting together the parts for my EFI swap was a source that listed the data and values from the various sensors I am using. Microsquirt (my PCM) will let me look at that data live so I can see a flaky sensor that returns an "in range" value that is not correct. Such as telling me my coolant temperature is 50F, which is "in range" for that sensor, when it's actually past the thermostat opening temperature. Don't forget a grounded signal line from the sensor to the PCM will also confuse it. Unfortunately, I only have GM sensor data, but if we knew what the data was for your sensors we could back probe the voltage to the PCM and see if what's going there is rational or not.

Well, a good enough for government work type of guy maybe, lol. A wise man does what eases his mind.

Back then there were two coolant temps sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. If the one for the computer is sending bad data to the PCM then it may be the reason it's running rich. Essentially, it's telling the computer I am not warmed up so the computer stays in open loop and it runs rich once the engine is actually up to temperature. Gauge sender PCM sender OBD1 isn't sophisticated enough for you to actually look at the data and see if this is the case, unfortunately. OBDII is smart enough to let you do that, which cuts down on the issue of shotgunning parts, but at the expense of a costly scanner.

The only relay in the mopar injector circuit is the one that feeds 12v to all the injectors. The computer uses injector drivers (solid state device, not a relay) to trigger the injectors on/off via the ground. Those usually either work, or do not work, very rarely are they intermittent. Either the coolant temp sensor, the one for the computer not the dash gauge, is flaky, you have a leaky injector or the PCM is wonky. If you have the ability to measure the fuel pressure at the injector rails you can see how fast that pressure bleeds down, if it's quick you have a leaky injector(s). Have you run the codes?

This right here. If you fill the radiator fully it will puke the excess out until it's happy.

He said it's looks like someone ground on it, as in it is physically damaged. They should be replaceable, however you may have a problem finding SAE thread grease fittings in the Netherlands.

I ended up using some 1/2" ID thin steel shims to resolve that issue, I just used however many it took to get almost all the vertical free play out, Your local hardware store may carry them.