Sniper

I have a BMW, truer words were never written, lol.

That is always the question. Unfortunately, those people are not around to ask anymore. So we get to play archeologist, lol. But unlike the archaeologists that try to tell us how the pyramids were built, most of us have some knowledge of the matter at hand. Looking at what they replaced the original setup with I am going to go with both better and cheaper. Better in the sense that it is less complex and simpler in design adn cheaper in that there are less parts involved to do the same thing. A win/win.

If you have bubbles in the fuel line odds are you have some pinholes in a rubber line and the mechanical pump is sucking air. Which means with an electric pump odds are you'll have fuel leaks soon.

Yesterday, the son and I were running around town gathering up stuff to fix the stripped oil pan drain plug on his ride. We took the Plymouth. Started out running fine, about three quarters of the way to our last stop it started running funky. No power, died at idle, barely made enough juice to to 25 mph. Funky noises, not like anything I have ever heard before. Anyway, we finish our errands and manage to get home. Not running hot, normal, for it, oil pressure. I heard a noise or two that sort of made me think rod knock was possible. I got home and parked it. Today I am thinking about this very thread, I am hoping the crappy modern day points rubbing block issue is the problem, haven't looked as I am afraid it isn't. No I did not leave the parking brake on, lol. Well, I pulled the cap, nothing really jumped out without taking it more apart than I want to right now, going to spend the time with my son.

I dunno, there is a reason Mopar redesigned that setup.

I was going to comment on an inch rule made in Germany, never saw such a thing, lol.

OSHA has no jurisdiction at home. Therefore, it is compliant, lol.

Some of us live alone.

Congrats

http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor

Been starting mine for 4 years on 12V If you are running 12V to the coil without going thru a ballast resistor then that is why it is so hot.

Oh they most definitely go bad. Coils get how, that is why there is oil inside them, for cooling. How hot is too hot, I dunno. But did you even check to see if you had spark after is stopped running? That would tell you if you had an ignition problem. Did you pull the air cleaner and see if the accelerator pump shot a squirt of gas in the carb when you cycled the throttle? That would tell you if your carb had gas in the bowl.

Rockauto sells premade battery cables for use, if you want something more factory made looking. https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/electrical,battery,battery+cable,2500

If number six is on the compression stroke and you are at TDC then put the number six plug wire in the cap tower that is lined up with the rotor. DO NOT get hung up on where the rotor is supposed to be pointing, it's obvious someone did not reinstall the oil pump properly. At this point you can either roll with the way it is or try to R&R the oil pump to sort out your rotor position.

I'll have to ask my son, he was a witness, lol.

I dunno, seems someone I know was having similar issues, then noticed his parking brake was still on Dunno who that could have been though.

That would be even more useful if it said what the term meant. Cause you now, my age you say you're gonna slap me someone's going home to mommy crying, lol.

I converted my 51 Plymouth to 12v - ground. Not real hard to do. Had to rewire it anyway because the PO's mechanic did a real hack job putting in a new aftermarket and universal (fits nothing) wiring harness in it. He kept it 6v + ground, but used a 12v harness, so all the wires, including the battery cables, were undersized. Lol You will have to change all the bulbs there are 12v equivalents for them all. The starter doesn't care. My electric wipers needed reducing to keep them from beating themselves to death, lol. I had to use a 12V starter solenoid, added a 12v coil and a ballast resistor. Heater blower motor was replaced with a 12v one. Probably a few other things but my 51 doesn't have a lot of OE electrical stuff. Here's what I did for an alternator http://www.yourolddad.com/12-volt-conversion Some of the wiring issues http://www.yourolddad.com/rewire-it Blower motor change http://www.yourolddad.com/blower-motor None of those links are comprehensive, just stuff I ran into. If you have questions, ask away. Why I converted? Because I could, lol. No seriously, I wanted good headlights, nothing 6v, including LED ones, qualify, imo. I am running GE Nighthawk 12V, 7" round, LED headlights. Those are good. I also want a thumping stereo, yet to do. I also want AC, no 6v option I know of there.

Did the latrine yesterday. Maybe, if I am a good boy and I pass inspection I can play with cars this weekend, lol. I do have a few new items for the 51 to review.

Battery cables are too small, lol. I see that all the time. Nice start to a good project. Step one, a good cleaning, lol. Speaking of which, I need to clean the kitchen.

So, what is the difference that makes that added 6 hp?

You would be unique I have to retract that statement. Seems there is a one piece hub and pulley setup. trucks used it, at least. So entirely possible. See? Even an old dog can learn a new thing,

There should be a data plate on the starter with a part number you can use to source a good starter and/or parts for you existing starter.

I run a set of DORMAN 939137 on my 51, but they are 17x7 steelies that are for 2005-2011 RWD mopar cars. Fit the back just fine, the fronts require a bit of a spacer.

AHHHHHHH! 🤪