Sniper

I just returned from a round trip drive to Wylie, TX last night. 10 hours on the road. 12 hour trip taking all time into account. Got home just before midnight. Good thing I am no longer the impetuous youth I once was, lol.

I look for, at least, a 0.060" gap between the clutch disc and pressure plate with the clutch pedal fully matted.

My advice on the points is to just stay away from current production stuff, the rubbing block wears out too fast. Fond NOS ones.

Oh he's that way even if he's not the only game in town.

Hmm, they made Desotos for 33 years, many different axles over the years. Want to narrow it down for us?

Every now and then I just snap. Deleted incriminating stories, lol Just suffice it to say I have a limit, don't exceed it.

And way more caustic. Simple green works fine with time and a little elbow grease. That's all we used to clean up grease and oil spills on the wind turbines and it is what is in my parts washer. For an oil pan? I'd buy a small kiddy pool, hang the pan above it and use brake clean to hose it out. Whatever you do, DO NOT have it sand blasted.

Depending on hos handy you are just about any 1bbl carb can be fitted up. But in general, the Carter is a good carb.

Interesting, the end of the pin sticking out looks to have a keeper on it to prevent just that. Does the other end have a groove for a keeper?

A bodies (Dart, Valiant, Duster, Demon) were ALL 5 on 4" bolt pattern till 73. I have a 65 Cuda, V8 car, that had that pattern.

That's the number you need, Mopar part numbers are cone and roller 1139292 Cross reference Cup 1139291 Cross reference

I replaced that seal in my 51. Use weatherstripping glue. Took two of us to set it in place because once you touch the glue together it will be there, forever, lol. I removed the vent itself to cleanup the old remains, apply the glue and set the new seal in place. Had no issues with it being too tall though. But I am pretty sure I used the Metro seal, not sure who makes Andy's seal.

One has to wonder if that is because, as a percentage, the MoPar 's survived the year better?

It's clear that the authors of that article know doodlysquat. Chrysler was building Hemis for the war effort, long before Duntov made his setup. I present to you the Chrysler IV-2220 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_IV-2220

Thing is the Ford flathead V8 really didn't make any more power than the Plymouth of the same year. I mean in 1951 the Ford 39 V8 made 100hp, my 51 218 made 97. A major reason the Ford V8 had cooling issues was the exhaust runner. The exhaust valve is in the lifter valley and the port has to run to the outside of the block, thru the cooling jacket to exit, all that heat gets dumped into the cooling system. Having the two center port's siamesed didn't help either. The mopar flathead exhaust valve is located right next to the block side and has a very short run out of the block. Each exhaust port is separate. Ford exhaust port cutaway

Lot's of factory setups use a cantilever setup. Remote fill caps are simple enough solution to the under the floor fill cap situation. There is a thread here on this very site on how to roll your own front discs. Using commonly available brake parts.

Unless it's been rebuilt a few times I seriously doubt it has 200k miles on it.

Same amount of horse power too, sufficient. lol

Point is, if it is magnetic it is NOT oilite. What it is made of, who knows. It may be sintered metal, but more than likely it's an overseas interpretation of what a pilot bushing is. Changing a clutch is enough of a PITB as it is and for the minimal cost to get the specified bushing it makes sense to do it now, rather than find out whatever that bushing was it wasn't right and now you get to do it again. No thanks, I am lazy, I prefer to do the job right, do it once and never have to mess with it again,

Op says it's magnetic, which rules out it being the appropriate oilite bushing,

Oilite is a sintered bronze material that is self lubricating. Chrysler has used to for 70+ years, I'd pass on the steel one. You can punch in the mopar part number, 53298, into NAPA's website and they sell the bushing for under $5. Autozone wants $25, pass, lol. Dorman Bearing 690-005 works too

Very nice, sorta jealous.

Figuring that out was a trick on my 51. You just grab the front edge of the seat bottom and pull up. Unlike my later mopars there is no hook there so you do not need to (actually can't) push it in to "unhook" as there are no hooks there. Oh yeah, take out the armrests first, probably the window handles too..

I am running P245/50R17's in the back. For a spare I use the stock sized tire, because the heights are the same and it'll also clear everything up front. Haven't totally sorted what I want to run in the front.

This is the one I bought, it's 1/2" drive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006L2320G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1