Sam Buchanan

Good info, Rich.....I learned a lot! When I got my P15 it still had one of the "old" sealed beam headlights that looked like it had a bulb inside it. It was defective and got replaced with a conventional sealed beam to match the other one.

Ok...................

The leather is thin and very high quality, much like a fine pair of driving gloves. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TtLlReasVwo

A source for a leather wheel cover that I used for the TR6 is Wheelskins. It is custom cut for a particular wheel and I was impressed with the quality and fit. It has been in service for three years and looks as good as new. Wheelskins It appears they can make about any size cover, just need to supply the dimensions of the wheel. The TR6 wasn't listed in their stock but the cover they made per my measurements fit perfectly.

Often caused by severely degraded contacts. This is the same principle we see when trying to use 12v battery cables on a 6v system...the small cables will show continuity but not provide sufficient capacity to flow the current needed to operate the starter. Continuity and current capacity are two different functions. Voltage drop is a signature of reduced circuit capacity.

No, it is a hardened steel shaft with a drive fit in the transmission case......when all the components are fresh.

The shaft isn't supposed to require any sealing, at original assembly it was a press fit into the case. But it seems that in my tranny 75 years of service has loosened that fit enough for oil to leak past the shaft. The "plug" I made with a penny has been working well so far. The leak was obvious when I had the transmission leveled on the bench and filled with oil.

I bought a different "brand" of that meter and the dwell function didn't work, was really hoping it would, the price was right. Guess I got a bad one.

See if this thread has any useful info: https://p15-d24.com/topic/58630-major-leak-countershaft-3-speed/#comment-630905

True. https://www.harborfreight.com/612v-circuit-tester-with-5-ft-lead-63603.html

Or maybe it's so you can open the diff and let the stale air escape.....................

When in doubt go to the manufacturer's website. https://www.powerprobe.com/na/en/product-list/content/308EbfcE6f63 Measures 0-70 vdc. Seems a bit pricey ($150) to me for the very simple troubleshooting we do on our cars. This is what I use: https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical/electrician-s-tools/multimeters-testers/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html I don't even bother replacing the battery, just throw the meter away and get another one for $7. I have several of these scattered around in various vehicles.

Be careful about who's rear end you are looking at..............................

I agree. I also am wondering about your reasons for wanting to convert to 12v. A conversion makes adding modern accessories such as sound systems easier, but a properly sorted out 6v system works very well. Get the car roadworthy on 6v then you can make an informed decision about whether or not a change to 12v is justified.

Most likely they don't care...................see above post about being a slave to the database..........

An easy filter fix is one of the metal filters commonly found in your local auto parts emporium. I would mount it near the fuel pump outlet so it would be below the exhaust manifold in the remote chance it developed a leak. Here is your first purchase!!! https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=382 Rock Auto has the head gasket: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121713&cc=1349917&pt=5412&jsn=416 Also your friendly NAPA can help you out: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPGHS7564C These flatties were produced in various flavors up to about 1970, often used in fork lifts, farm equipment, stationary pumps, etc. Check the mainstream suppliers first then you can use the specialty vendors when necessary.

The engine sounds good! However, the idle is set way too high, these engines will tick over like a sewing machine at 400-500 rpm. Also....please get rid of the the plastic fuel filter! When that thing gets brittle, cracks and sprays fuel due to proximity to the exhaust manifold you will have a serious fire hazard. And yes, it looks like you are due a head gasket.

I was seeing some random oil on the head, it went away after converting to a paper filter in the original filter housing. I don't know how oil was escaping the filter but it must happen occasionally.

Agree. Probably some leakage from the thermostat housing.

I saw the meme not as passing judgment on disk brakes, etc but as observing how some will insist on the "purity" of something like old-school lubricants while sanctioning upgrades to other components of their car. I thought the meme was amusing and to-the-point......well played.

Don't think that would explain the engine restarting when primed through the carb and then running rough.

Not much reason to use straight 30W, 10W-30 is an excellent option readily available and reasonably priced. It has the same viscosity as straight 30W when hot but makes cold starts easier when it is similar to 10W. But 30W is still available, just takes a bit of effort (or place an order on Amazon).

You have a plastic fuel filter right next to the exhaust manifold......BAD IDEA!! You don't want that filter to fail and spray fuel on the manifold...... And in that regard you may be dealing with vapor lock due to fuel boiling in the line close to the manifold after the engine gets hot. Our modern ethanol-contaminated gasoline is more prone to vaporization than the older formulations. This would explain why the engine will run when primed but then run rough due to the uneven fuel delivery. An easy test would be to remove the fuel filter and insulate the line (or move it away from the manifold) and see if that makes any difference. Or maybe even better....a neoprene fuel hose that is secured so it won't be next to the manifold would probably be less apt to heat the fuel to vaporization. This is something easy to try, hope it works!

That is not at all what I said. I'm just observing the lack of consistency of some who strenuously promote certain elements of the "old school" while adopting modern tech at the same time. But I respect the prerogative of owners to operate our old cars in whatever manner they wish. My old car has an alternator, fancy transmission oil.......and bias ply tires.