Sam Buchanan

Perhaps this might be a useful datapoint. My RV aircraft (and several thousand others like it) has a Facet electric cube pump and a mechanical engine pump (AC Delco type, same as on hundreds of thousands of trucks and tractors....) in series and has been flawless since 1999 (but on the second mechanical pump while still on the original electric pump!). The two pumps share the same fuel line very happily, the Facet being between the tanks and engine pump. This is a known and field-proven system. In my opinion, if there are fuel delivery problems with one of our cars that has two pumps in series it is due to some other problem.

Another option for interrupting power to the full-time electric pump is an inertia switch. The one on my P15 is a Ford item that has a magnetic switch that disengages when the device is subjected to a substantial jolt (crash). It can be reset with the red button on top if someone bumps into you in a parking lot. I have mined wired with male/female connectors so it can be easily bypassed if it goes bad on a road trip. It controls the power lead from the ignition switch to the pump. Also visible is the new fuel line that goes from the frame rail then across the firewall to the carb, this eliminates the original hard lines in the front of the car that run close to the exhaust manifold (vapor lock....).

Why do you not trust an electric pump?

Sounds like you have a defective mechanical pump.

If the top of your Savoy is dark green that is the same color combination of the '56 Savoy in which I learned to drive. The concerns you have stated in regard to the condition of your car are pretty much the norm for a Mopar of this vintage, fortunately they are all easily remedied. First thing you need is a service manual. The shifter never was "Miata precise", most likely yours has some worn parts in the linkage. The crunchy 1-2 might be fixed with a premium trans oil like RedLine MTL, that made my '48 shift very smoothly in all temps. If you car has the Lockheed brakes (think it does) you will want to get up to speed on the adjustment routine, it'll be different from anything you have seen. Here is some info: https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/ Enjoy your new project, it'll be fun!

That diagram is a riot! Just as Abraham Lincoln once said, "Don't believe everything you see on the internet"...................

Rich, you might find this thread to be useful: https://p15-d24.com/topic/62606-looking-at-a-1956-dodge-coronet/ 😄

If a pin can't be easily sourced I would consider a grade-8 bolt.................

Now the question is whether or not you will need the little brass ferrule found in the original tank to get whatever fitting you use to seal tightly. Straight threads usually need a flared fitting for sealing.

Don't know if I would want that stuff in my rare and expensive honeycomb radiator....................

I had to drop the oil pan and rear main cap to provide clearance to remove the flywheel bolts so the flywheel could be dropped out of the bell housing.

I think pulling the transmission would be much simpler than pulling the engine.

Go to your local auto parts or hardware store and get a brass 1/4" NPT barb fitting and see if it fits your tank, I suspect it will. If it doesn't....go to Plan B.

Short answer....no. The alternator, regardless of its max rating, will not put out more current than needed to satisfy the loads on your electrical system. In other words, if your old genny put out 30a to accommodate the max load, then the new alternator will output similar current. Nothing gets fried and you can use your existing ammeter.

I can be intimidating for the first timer to hit the puller REALLY HARD with a LARGE hammer but the shock of the hammer blows is part of the process in addition to the pressure being created by the puller. As has been stated before, always leave the nut on the axle while using the puller, when the drum releases, all that energy that has applied to the puller has to go somewhere and it can launch an unsecured drum in a way that can cause serious damage and injury.

I don't know which requires more fluid volume to be moved, drum wheel cylinders or disc pistons, so I don't have a definitive answer on which Wilwood master cylinder is optimum for our application. I added a proportioning valve to the rear brakes but don't see any difference in pedal pressure regardless of how the valve is adjusted. I'm satisfied with the brakes especially when considering the limited traction allowed by the bias-ply tires I use. I failed to address your question about residual valves. I don't have any external valves installed and don't think they are needed. However, I have disc brakes, don't know if that makes a difference.

Dennis, I converted to the Wilwood m/c at the same time the disc brakes were installed so have no experience with the cylinder/drums combination. My comment about the 1 1/8" was due to the pedal on my car not being as firm as I expected. As a rule of thumb a larger bore will move more fluid but require more pedal effort. But my brakes work fine and I think your installation will be fine. When we move away from original equipment we sometimes have to be willing to experiment a bit.

I suggest a 1 1/8" bore, the 1" bore of the Wilwood I have works fine but I think the pedal would be firmer with the larger bore. However, I am running disks on front so my experience might not match what you find with drums on front. Once we start mixing non-standard cylinders and brakes we are in the experimental realm.

I discovered the same thing a few years ago and used an end cap to make an adapter for a pressure bleeder.

The issue with GL5 is in some applications (like my P15) it is too good! The superior lubricity may not allow the syncros in our vintage trannys to grip the gears sufficiently to allow smooth meshing. It was only after I replaced GL5 with Redline MTL that the syncros began functioning as designed and smooth shifting in all temps is now the norm. I wouldn't discourage anyone from using GL1 if it works well in a particular transmission. It appears the Penrite Transoil is a modern take on GL1 and is most likely a fine option since it is intended for vintage vehicles.

Five seconds on Google: https://penriteoil.com.au/products/transoil-sae-90

It's possible the little clock spring that controls the needle has broken or come loose. So the needle "sees" the magnet spinning and has no spring to keep it from hitting the century mark.

I'm not going to engage this debate other than to suggest that ANY oil available today is far, far superior to what was used in our flatheads back in the day. Probably no need to over-think this one.

Don't touch it, the car sounds happy.

I agree, I felt the urge to yell at the interviewer "Just shut up....let the old guy talk!". Diarrhea of the mouth seems to be a common affliction of YouTube creators....but guess they have this media figured out, lots of money being put in the pockets of those who have a "YouTube personality".......because we keep watching. It's hard to eat just one potato chip. It is interesting and valuable to hear the knowledge base in the first person from those who began their careers in the heyday of our old cars....a lot of information that was common back then has to be dug up now with considerable research. So the vids are informative even if the presentation is a bit aggravating to some of us. Thanks for the link! P.S. But I'm still pondering the oil-soaked cam tip.....maybe that was the way it was done before high tech assembly lubes.