55 Fargo

Run a search on this, should be plenty of talk about it, and what works and what does not. If you want to convert just for the occasional jump start, why not keep the 6 volt system, and make sure it is in good shape. If I ever convert, it will be for better starting, the ability to have an alternator, and to run more acessories. The 12 volt battery, makes for quicker starts in hot weather. My 6 volt system does well, as I have new 2/0 bat cables, good battery and charging system, but a 12 volt would spin it faster on any occasion I am sure.......

I have never tried Aero, but don't see why not, if there is enough clearance. I am going to change my rear motor mounts in car, with everything in place if I can, just need to lift the back of the engine a bit, might need to pul trans and driveshaft, though.

Hi Ernie, what have you done to test these 2 units. You can bench test them quite easily. You need 6 volt power to the gauge, and 2 leads to the sender and back to the gauge, you also need to ground the gauge and sender. You can then operate the sender and see what the gauge does. If you have run these tests then disregard. A lot of times a poor ground at the gas tank is a problem, as well as bad connections, and the wiring itself from gauge to sender. When removing the sender gauge wires, make sure the car battery is disconnected, you do not want to make sparks on top of the gas tank. Senders are available at Roberts, they are re-pops, and about $85.00, I have one they work well, sometimes the sender can be taken apart, by drilling the rivets,and repairs made inside. The gauge if not working can be repaired depending on the problem.........Fred

Thanx Jim, that's what I am currently doing. I do know the shaft seals on these boxes do leak, mine is leaking what looks to be the most on the front case gasket. I am also currently using grease....Fred

Hi all, as steering box leaks are probably fairly common, I am starting this thread, to see what some have done, whatn some repair procedures are, and whether using very thick lube or grease is a viable solution. Now my steering box leaks like a sieve, and the leaking is from the topfront case gasket, do not see a whole lot from shaft seal. Can this stering box case gasket be rplaced, by just unbolting the cover,and installing a new gasket, while it is still incar. My steering box is noit bad, a bit of play, but certainly not too bad. So what have some of you done to deal witha leaking steering gear? PS I ahve done the searches, does not seem to be that much on here about this topic..........Fred

Thats great Dutch, priming works, when a carb is dry........

Okay, here is the easiest in car repair. 1) drain coolant 2) pull driveshaft,trans 3)remove starter 4)remove floor panel,remove clutch,flywheel 5) support engine under oil pan with blockof hard wood, and small floor jack 6) unbolt rear engine mounts 7) unbolt clutch housing 8) remove leaking frost plug 9) clean out freeze core hole 10) install freeze plug with sealant 11) use a brass core plug, or maybe I have heard some use 2 plugs, set them well with 2 ball peen hammers, or brass punch 12) install clutch housing, motor mounts,flywheel, clutch 13) add coolant, you could do this before step 12, check for leaks, and run engine step 12. 14) reinstall trans, drive shaft,floor panel If you are in there, replace rear main seal, if necessary. I hope this helps, been there and done this...........Fred

Bob, did you do any further testing to determine the engine noise?

Thanx Robert, your right, longer drive, hotter oil more engine load, should be the indicator. I hope it at the least slows down any leakage......Fred

Okay added oil fired up engine, and ran it for a while till she warmed up. I see nothing leaking, not sure if this will be the same on warm days while driving. If it is not bad now, is this a good indicator, I am sure the rear main leaks a bit, and the timing chain cover, but hopefully this slows things down.............Fred

I would think anyone alive to remember this would remeber the sweat that went along with Desert Life before AC, very cool pic, always loved the Cal Desert region............

Very cool Robert, bout as close as I have ever been to Whales is at Sea World and Marineland. I think we have them here in Churchill Manitoba in Summer.....

Country car originally, country roads and fields, not sure the plate has been on a long time I would presume........Fred

Tim we got all kinda critturs n my locale too. The Deer are the biggest problem, 100s get killed on the highways and roads around here all the time. About 40 miles from here there is a real probelm with Wild Boar, feral pigs that got looose from Boar Ranchers, only to proliferate, they survive quite well here, even when it reaches close to -35 to -40 at times in winter. We have Bears, Coyotes, the odd Wolf, Badgers,Raccoons by the dozen, Skunks, Weasals, Foxes, and this is right behind my house

Hi Phil, this is what I did, applied a light coating of black permatex on the oil pan side, put gaskets on oil pan, let set a while, it was cool in the garage. I then coated the side to go on the engine with a liberal coating of grease, then bolted the pan onto the block. Not sure if that should be a problem or not, as I have read other members have done this. I hope it works...........Fred

The oil pan is installed and painted, will add oil tomorrow morning, see what happens. Painted the pan black, same as the exhaust manifolds and engine parts, the block and head are silver..........

Thanx Rob, yes I have done this for SBC Valve covers, and oil pan gaskets. Today I used black permatex oil pan side, let gasket and permatex set first before installing, it held on great. Will add oil tomorrow and see how things are........Fred

Don, earlier I could not find this info via search. Idid recall the permatex on the pan for the side gaskets. But also put some on the end gaskets pan side. I did give the outer side toward engine, a liberal dose of grease. I then intalled pan, it slid into place no problem, the gaskets were in place, as I had let the permatex set, beforehand. I then installed the 4 corner bolts snugging them gently, then installed all the rest, and tightened down a little ata time, I did not give them much torque down, just tried to snug them until the gasket would squeeze a bit.........Thanx will add oil tomorrow morning

Apic of the oil pan, moments after I removed it.. And after cleaning it out.

Hi Phil, I changed my mine, looks to be very little leakage from the rear main seal, so decided to just go witha pan gasket change. I figure I should change the whole rear seal, when the time comes. Thanx everyone, the engine and oil pan were quite clean.........Fred

Hi Aero, a tiny bit of sludge, that was it, quite clean for a very old engine. I used alcohol to check, no leaking whatsover that I could tell. The oil pan is all cleaned out. The clutch pan had a tiny bit of gunk, some rear main seal sepage, but not a heck of a lot. I think I will try the pan with jucta new gasket, and see what happens..Thanx for the help

Hey all, just dropped my oil pan, got a surprise, claena asa whistle. I have owned this engine over 20 years, it was never rebuilt, and comes from a lower mile country car. It had a little bit of moisture milk, my fault running it at cold winter temps too often. But very clean inside, no sludge. Now I am going to use Coatney's gasket method, should I use black rtc on the pan itself for the 4 gasket pieces, then grease on the engine side. Things look good in there, but I don't really know what I am looking for. So if someone could explain the gasket procedure, please..........Thanx Fred PS, I might not paint the pan, not sure how long I can leave the bottom end open, probably a little while as Aero mentioned

Sorry to be a "PITA" Guys. I have the outside of the oil pan scraped off. The car is on jack stands, all is ready to be dropped. If I have to leave the pan off for few days, what do I need to do for the bottom end being exposed. I have to pick up oil,varsol,more RTV, and a rattle can of aluminum paint. I will be dropping the clutch pan first, then oil pan tomorrow morning........Thanx for the help/ideas......Fred

Hi Joe, it is far froma professional job, but yes it has been and continues to be a lot of work. It keeps the mind sharp, and keeps me out of trouble...........LOL