55 Fargo

Prime your carb, once the engine fires to life, that fuel pump will be pumping good.........

I also use a turkey baster to suction the oil out of the canister, but I am going to buy a small scution gun, can get more out easier with it, they are only about 3 or 4 bucks at the discount tool stores.......

Looks like a great time Bob, and you are not afraid to take your car out early in the year, good for you.......Fred

The 228 ci engine wil have a bore of 3 3/8 stroke 4.25, the 218 Engine will have a bore of 3 3/8 stroke 4.00. I would lay money that for a 1954 engine it will be a 228, I do not think the 218 was made past the 52 or 53 year, but I could be wrong, it will not be a 251.......Fred

I am with you on this one too Tim, I do not touch liquor, but have no problem with moderate social drinkers/drinking, I have a problem with knock down drunkeness, and drinking just for intoxicated effects. I still believe it is the right of any individual to drink as they please, but when they endanger others, and the public, that's where I draw the line. Nothing wrong with a cold beer on a hot day with friends, but drinking a case or a bottle of Jim or Jack, then motoring down the road, that is just BAD, and MADD will get you........

Greg, this a Canadian engine, all Canadian engines are 25 inch blocks, there were never any 23s made here. The C indicates a Canuck manufactured engine from Windsor Ontario plant....

I have done the following Shel, when painting parts when cold outside, and do not want to heat up shop. I prep part, then keep in house, I also keep the rattle can paint inside too. I then go outside, paint part, then bring both back inside immediately, and do more coats as needed. This has worked well for me, as long as it is not wndy, just walk out with part, paint bring right back inside tooflash/dry whatever....

No I haven't, it may still be there, along with the Planet Hollywood, and Hard rock Cafe type places. Phil40/41 might know he is from the region....

Now Tranna, is quite a town, grown to like close to 5 million now. Some of the Canadian Beers by name are Molson Canadian, Labatts Blue,Old Vienna, Alberta Pilsner, Moosehead Lager, Club,Standard Lager, Extra Old Stock,, and many more, plus US brands made in Canada Bud,Coors, Miller Etc........

I dunno Frankie, Canadian Beer is awful strong stuff..........

Hey Tim, you are a witty, thinking on your feet kinda Guy, how do you come up with these so quick...... You are right though, Females of any species do suffer from Mood ems, or is Moodiness/craziness

Hi Joe, I always suction the oil out of the filter housing, when changing the filter, then add 5 quarts to to engine, usually is okay. But if the filter is not being changed might only need 4.5 quarts....

The high price of modern farming, now evn the animals want to get iton the act, and they have rights too

Here isa link, but I would venture to guess this engine number is an 228, if it has not been overbored, or another crank, and rods were used say froma 251. Here is the link http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php You can contact B-Watson by PM, he will be able to detail the engine number for you. It is most likely a 228CI, about 110 hp. Chrysler did not start using the 251in Ddoge and Plyms till late in the 50s, just before the slant 6 was introduced, they also had more compression, and hp, like to the tune of 125 hp.........

Thats true Andy, infact a lot of my parts are from all over, lets see, the Rad Tim Adams Elko Georgia, Gas pedal from California, hubcaps Bob T Joplin Missouri, Gas tank Minnesota, fuel filter Reg Evans California, Lighter,trim,seat adjuster, from Shel In New York State, so yes my car has parts from all over. The Gent I spoke with his T&Cs he has owned for a long time, the rag top he bought in 1958, the sedan he bought in the 70s, so he got em when they were not the kind of money they are worth today........

Hold on Frankie, will be down with a 5 gallon can of compression, lefthanded crescent wrench, and the skyhooks, should get that muffler bearing greased up quick........LOL

1973 Vega, hehhehehe,LOL, NOT, but I did own one years ago

Hi Bob, ain't this the truth, do it the way we like them, and forget the rest. My car was so rough, and it did not have the original motor and trans, it also had a number of windsor parts installed ona Royal model, now it is what I have brought her back to be. The bottom line is she has been revived, has been made to loook half assed presentable. The purists will always say it was not remodelled the right way, but they can say what they want. I still have visions of a dual carb, dual exhaust, T5 or R10 OD trans,later model dif, front disc brakes, maybe a 12 volt conversion with alternator,who knows maybe even AC someday, she is modified now, whatever I do will be okay. Now if the car was a T&C, then recreating total originality is critical, as those cars are worth big bucks, even when in rougher shape.....

I am with you Brother. My car is a driver, but as I have mentioned it has been modified from a factory original type. The engine, clutch,trans are froma Dodge, meaning no fluid drive or correct C38 engine number. The dash, window garnsih, fabric color are not OEM, but look good. My paint is not a 48 Chrysler color, and I painted underhood,under trunk, in gloss black, which was the factory color. So I have an old car fixed up, and was gonna be recycled metal years ago but got saved, othewrwise I would never know some of you fine Gentleman.........Fred

Great stuff, Joe, I have been following your last 2 days, been busy with mine too, It is nice when things come together. I am sure you will get everything worked out, so you can get back to getting this car back togther and on the road........Fred

I drained coolant, pulled the aftermarket sender bulb, put a 7/16 drill bit intro hole by hand , twisted it a ound a bit, the oem bulb slid right in. So crusty/rusty build up in adaptor hole on the head. I then ran engine to test the gauge. My engine took forever to reach 140 to 150, it is about 32 outside, now I know what Greybeard Dave means about the long warmup. I was able to touch the rad, and hoses even after a 1/2 hour of running, driving would be better, but I don't drive with slop and snow on the roads. I have a 160 t/stat, witha 1/8 hole drilled into it's lip, maybe I should be brave and run a 180 t/stat. Temp in rad, was 145 to 150, verified with laser temp gunb, temp on gauge was 145, so the gauge temp is down about 5 degrees or so. The bottom line is I have an OEM Gauge for the 1st time in 5 years........Thanx all for the help epecially Young Ed......

Hey Tim, the car is for my liking, the appraial I wanted for insurance purposes. As we have public auto insurance up here, they have a list of appraisers, and this Gent is one of the appraisers, he indicated my car's value will bea lot less because it has been altered a lot from Stock, mostly paint and interior stuff, but the engine and trans as well.......Fred PS My car, to my liking, and even the appraiser said it should be that way...

Yes it was for Vehicle insurance purposes. Up here we have public insurance for cars, but I may be able to buy addtional insurance privately from a private insurance company. The Gent who valued my car, is a registered appraiser for the public insurance company up here.

On the bench, I used a 7/16 drill bit, and turned it through the adaptor by hand, the sender bulb slipped into it effortlessly. My question to the more learned engine folks is this. Should I remove the aftermarket sender bulb in my engine, and then use a 7/16 drill bit by hand and gently turn it through the adaptor, it will break apart any crud/corrosion. The NOS sender was going into it, but was very tight, and I could not get it all the way in, so maybe if I clean out the hole a bit with drill bit, it may slip right in.......Fred

That was stange Bill your post just got duplicated