55 Fargo

The appraiser said he would only value my car at 4 or 5 k, thats with the interior finished( which it is minus a headliner), and the chrome re-done. The book value on my car would be about 10 k. So it was a little disappointing to hear this, but the way it is.....Fred

Removed the adaptor fitting from a 251 head, the sender goes right into it. So I need to get a new adaptor, as this one is pretty rough, with some thread missing from corrosion. I am little leary about backing the adaptor out of my engine in the car, do not like to mess with those things, in case it breaks or something, then the fun starts......Fred

Hi all, today I spoke an old Mopar Guru, who also does appraisals of Vintage cars for insurance purposes. He owns 2 -1948 Chrysler T&Cs, he is extemely knowledgeable with 46 to 48 Chryslers. I have bought a lot of items for my car from this Gent, he is a very nice Guy, and easy to deal with. He did however inform me, that my car 's value will be significantly lower than it could be for the following reasons. - different flathead 6 (mine is from a 51 Canadian Dodge) - no fluid drive wrong paint color on dash, and interior cloth wrong type and color -engine bay, underhood, trunk color wrong, should be car body color, instead of black - wrong rad My dash and garnish trim should be the mottled wood look, mine is painted blue Now all of this has lowered my car value significantly, so I might as well enjoy it the way she is. I am certainly not going to throw a bunch of money at her, as the return is now way less, than if I had a OEM correct car. Live and learn..........

Hi Ed, tried to unturn the adaptor off the 251 head, it is on tight, will bring it to my bench and see, once off I can try it on the sender........Fred

Hey all, the fuel gauge is working normal, added gas to the tank, she came up to 1/2 tank from 1/4 tank with about 3 to 4 gallons of gas, which seems right. The oil gauge is running at 40 to 45 psi with cool oil , warm at idle 35 to 40 psi, so seems acceptable to me......Fred

I spoke with an old Chrysler guru locally, he thinks the insert that screws into the head, before the sender screws into this part, is smaller on my engines head. I am going to pull one off my 251 engine, and then will see if the bulb fits into that. If so, will swap the one from my head. I have a feeling these will be very difficult to remove from the head.......Fred

Hi Ed, have no idea when the switch to electric sending units came about. This engine is froma 50 or 51 Canadian Dodge. The hole size has been fine for the after market bulb, also the old bulb came ou, and was roughly the size of the aftermarket bulb, but that was 5 years ago, and do not recall exactly what it looks like. The fact is this gauge is froma C39, and that is the 8 cylinder,could it be larger? When they switched to electric sending units, where did they install them. I am wondering if I could plumb this bulb sender into the heater house outlet somewhow, could run with both gauges, then could hide aftermarket gauge somewhere...

Hi Ed, my engine is a 1951, but remember long block Canadian engine. Now my after market sender bulb is slimmer and fits right in. Is there any way to createan adaptor to allow me to use this larger bulb,that does not fit into the block?

Okay this morning I go out and change temp gauge hook up, my aftermarket out, and NOS to go in. I only had to pull the senders, and switch. I pull out the aftermarket sender, feed the NOS sender through firewall hole, and proceed to install into block, it would not go through the hole, the sender is too thick around. Damn it, then I notice a tag on the capillary tube, says C39, whcih is the 8 cyl engine, no doubt this sender is not for a 6 cyl engine, and after all the owrk, what a let down. I will be getting ahold of the old Gent I bought this from and let him know what happened. I wonder if I could plumb this in any other way?

Thanx Bob, here is a pic of the job finished, still need to correct gas gauge and oil gauge line may need a little cleaning too.......

I am thinking I may a piece for dirt or something, in the line or at the oil pressure gauge, it dropped about 10 psi, when I removed the oil line and made the swap, I did not play around with the gauge, other than cleaning the face, a bit and gently blowing the dust off the inside of it. I am thinking I should take the oil line off, and blow some air through it. My gas gauge is acting up a bit to, when I shut off the engine, and kill the power to the battery it is still registering a 1/4 tank, must be sticking. I am goinfg to add some gas to the tank tomorrow and see what happens..........Fred

Hi Greg, when block sanding, any shaped item can come in handy. Using the long board does not work in all situations, different shaped blocks for many contours, even sand paper and and fingertips at times.....Fred

NOS temp gauge I have reads about 15 under the correct temp. For example, using my laser thermometer, on water reading 170,this gauge reads about 155. Now I am going to test it again tonight, and write down the data, and use the gauge as is, I have no idea how to calibrate it anyway.......Fred Correction, water temp difference between NOS gauge and laser temp gauge appears to be about 5 degrees under for the NOS gauge, at temp readings of water to about 190, so not too bad, will need to be coginizant of this.

No it works as per normal, just reading lower than before, it s reads 40 psi now, it would read 45 to 50 psi before, when cold....

Well hooked all the wires, speedo, oil pressure gauge etc. Started engine, she fired right up, all is working. The only thing is my oil pressure gauge is reading 10 psi lower now, I don't know what has caused this, hopefully I did not cause this when I removed it from the old cluster to the donor cluster housing. But all in all not bad. The temp gauge capillary tube and sender I still have to route to the block, and get it hooked up. I still have my after market gauge installed.....................Fred PS total time 3 1/2 hours, not fun when you are 6' 2", and have the seat still in car, gonna be sore tonight

Okay, removed instrument cluster, and had donor cluster more or less ready, that is installed, need to attach wires yet, and to hook up new sender to engine for temp gauge, that will be another day. I just unscrewed the line to the oil pressure gauge, it has a little check valve, no mess at all. I hope I did that right. Here is a pic, and here is a pic of old assembly glass.

There is no choke and throttle to hold it in place, but the wring has to come off the ammeter, fuel gauge, not a big deal. The dash lights need come off. The big thing is this, should I unscrew the oil pressure gauge, right out of the hosung, then just pull it out of the way to allow me to get the rest of ths assembly out. Maybe I should not even do this job, but the cracked glassss is not very nice to have in the dash, could leave it alone I suppose.

Hi all, I am set to start taking speedo,gauges and speedo glass and housing out of the dash. I should have done this a long time ago, and certainly before I re-wired under there, the wries are tight, and tied up well together. I am not looking forwad to this job, and keep putting it off. The reason I am doing this is because the speedo glass is cracked, and I have a better speciman to install. I also have a new temp gaugs assembly to install. I am wondering if I should remove the oil pressure gauge out of the housing and leave it under dash, while I make the swap? Any suggestions, and/or ideas welcomed, I am also thinking of using my donor speedo, as it seems to function better than my current in-car speedo.........Fred

Order today for $6000.00 US............

Edgy custom cast, F head conversion for a Chrysler flat head 6 cyl...........

Here are the engine specs for Canadian built 6 cyl 218 and 228 engines. Incidentally all Canuck engines are long block, not 23s were made in Canada. 218 CI 3.375 Bore 4.0625 stroke 228 CI 3.375 Bore 4.25 Stroke Your engine sounds like a 228, with a .060 over bore, to bring it to 237. Now did you deck the block or shave the head, that will make the compression higher, and give you a little more HP and oomph. I would venture to guess your HP would be in the 110 HP range, without any add-ons..........Fred

Way to go Bro, YIPEEEE. Hey Joe, I know I was prodding you to get this thing started, I even mentioned this to another friend, we both thouight you should fire it up. I figure you always had oil pressure, mains and bottom end get it first. I am wondering if your float or needle are sticking, sure you will figure out why she stops.

The P 24 engine is from a 1953 Plymouth, being a Canadian engine it would have been a 218 with a standard ttrans, will still have an 8 bolt crank. If it were a 228 engine, it would have the longer stroke, and now that the cyls are bored out, it would also increase displacement. So for Canada the P24 engine would be a 218, or 228 engine. Interesting enough, this blcok, like mine could be made into a 251 or 265 with different crank and rods, and pistons. I presently have a Canadian 218 long block from a 1951 Dodge D40, in my 47 Chrysler Coupe, this is mated to a 3 spd trans, dry clutch and 3.73 rear end, so my car is a modified............LOL

Thatis a 228 Canadian Plym engine from a 53 or 54 Plym, you know what let me double check on this....Fred

Can you post the engine number, it is on the left siude of the block near the front, this will tell us if it is an original D25 engine...