55 Fargo

Hey been raining here for 4 days now, very soggy, but nice and green, but it had been very dry, so we needed it. I decided to strip,primer and paint, 2 Mopar oil bath air cleaners. One is 46-48 Mopar, the other is from a early 50s Mopar, was on 1955 Dodge truck. They both have rather clean innards, don't leak, and are in decent form. The 40s air cleaner, I may sell. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black, reduced with Medium speed Dupli-color reducer, no hardener, didn't have any lying around. I got a few runs, as the paint from my 1.4 tip HVLP gun, comes out quite fast, and with soemthing small like an air fliter, you got to be careful. I will wait a few days, sand out a few runs and hit it with a final coat for both filters. I stripped to bare metal, acid treated where applicable, and primered with Tremlcad, red oxide rust primer 1st.....

Having been in contact with Bob, and had the priviledge of being able to speak with you on the telephone the other day. I know Bob , and his family are doing well, and Bob is receiving very good care in Cooperstown. Speedy recovery Bob, the 40 Plym, needs to drive a whole lot more miles yet, and you have some young Grandkids to spend time with too. Look forward to your posts on your progress, take care, and speedy recovery to you.......................Fred

Is the stock flathead 6 cylinder engine color silver, or blue for 1955/56 trucks? I see blue paint in spots on both the 1955, 6 cylinder engines I have, but am not sure if it is a stock color or not....thanx

Yah, aint' it funny on some of the comments we get on our old cars. The best is, you gonna put a "SBC V8" in it, or it will be real nice when the bumpers are rechromed, or whatever other flaw there might be. You know what really blows me away, is my car, the 47, has been on around from the 40s till now, that is a whole lotta history and generational time. Or my 55 Fargo, which is still rough, but Man that truck is 57 years old, just thinking of firing it up and going to haul something, in a time machine, now you gotta appreciate that. I think back to the late 60s or early 70s, these vehicles were already gettin old, and heck, 60s is a long time ago, and a much different world from what we live in today. Last night at my 57 year old Sisters wedding She was widowed in 2006, My late 70s Mother commented, on people dancing, just standing there swaying and bopping, She said they would have got laughed off the floor back in the 50s and 60s dancing like that, in "Her time"..... sorry about the Long Story

That sounds very good, what major or even minor difference can be expected by installing this set-up?

Some have adapted a Slant 6 dizzy, and its solidstate components for this very job. I know of a Gent near where I live who has done this very conversion, and He is quite happy with it, good performance, and great engine start-ups.

Thanx all for your replies, on this topic, and my dilemna. I have searched and found I have been flogging this "dead horse", off and on for years. I have rebuilt this carb, fuel pump puts out the correct volume of fuel. I have a rebuilt distributor, newer coil, wires plugs etc. But this sumbich, is a PITA to start after a highway drive, , it makes it difficult to want to go for a ride on a nice warm day. Today we have Seattle weather, 50s, fine spray outside. I go for a short drive, then come home, engine just warmed up, re-starts no problem. If I went on a the highway, stopped for a few minutes, it would be a bugger to restart. I am tired of trying to figure this out, and don't want anyone else wasting there time on it either, I should have been able to correct this years ago, but I have failed.........

Battery is 5 years or so old, I do have new custom made 2/0 cables, but also have a generic battery cut-off switch on the battery. Could that restrict and cause resistance, while cranking engine. I also discovered no engine to frame ground strap. I probably could use a new battery...

Everything you have suggested has been done or is as you have suggested. I do thank you, for your reply, I am curious though, why would I need to send the carb to George Asche, is there something, he may be able to troubleshoot? This carb is super clean, but hey who knows maybe something is wrong. I would not dismiss, ethanol blended fuel as an issue though, but is there any empirical evidence to support or refute this....

Okay drove 10 miles into town, then shut off engine, for 5 minutes. Outside ambient temp 68, engine temp 160. I cranked over, without touching gas, no start, then psuhed down gas pedal 1/2 way no start, pumped it 2 times while cranking, started up. Next drove home 10 miles, stopped engine for 30 seconds, hit starter button no foot on gas pedal, fired right up. Let engine sit about 3-5 minutes, tried starter button, no foot on gas pedal, would not start, tried putting pedal 1/2 way, no start, pumped pedal slowly 2 times, fired right up, had to keep gas pedal to floor mometarily. Well thats my story, is this carb screwed, what might be the problem? I can see aggravation at 80-100 f, but not at temps in 60s, and underhood temp don't seem all that hot........PS going out to roto-till garden, Humming birds, goldfinches, and Orioles are all hanging out today

Thanx Tod, the carbs are getting mildly flooded, they are getting hot, the 12 volt starts quickly,but is mildly flooded, the 47 with a 6 volt, starts too, but much slower. I am not saying this could be other related, but it is a pain, and I believ it is fuel related.Could this be ethanol related, or winter fuel summer fuel, symptoms.

I have tried all the suggested methodss, dfor the starting procedure, but when the gas in ther lines is good and hot, it is good and hot. I typically hold the gas pedal down, no pumping, this gets her started, sometimes I hold the pedal rightr to the floor. A few times on super hot days, my engine would start, then it would bog, thios happened, until fuel mpump and under hood temps cooled down, and that was that. again, find the 12 volt way easier to start, both cold or hot, just the way it is, in my case.....

Yup, summer fuel/winter fuels, and the Reid vapor pressure may cause this problem. Whn it gets hot in srping, and the gasoline is still wintr blend, that may be a problem. Thes carbs also do not have anti-percolation mechanisms/features. What do the experts say??????

Okay, so how many have problems with "vapor lock", "percolation", hot fuel issues, that caus flooding or create hard starts???? I have owned many carburated autos/trucks, in my 35 year driving career, and do not recall too many issues with hot starts, flooding,percolating or the vapor lock voodoo. But I do have issues with both my flatheads, being finicky, and many times down right hard to start after a drive on warm to hot days, when underhood temps can get good and hot. I have tried all the suggestions, move fuel line far away as possible from the exhaust manifold, lower float, so what is the problem, is it something I am doing, or not doing? Is it the modern alcohol impaired fuel, is my engine drunk, and confused with this new "government green peace cocktail", or what? Does anyone want to take a run at Me, or suggest I do some searching on this, or should I be happy that the engine still starts and gets me back home. The 47, with a 6 volt system, is a real beach to start, once heated up, but does usually catch. The 55Fargo, will restart much easier, with 12 volts, and then needs to clear, and then runs smooth again. I do expect this sort of thing in 90 degree weather, but not on a 70 degree day. Well thats my story, and I am sticking to it, happy motoring..... __________________

Okay, so how many have problems with "vapor lock", "percolation", hot fuel issues, that caus flooding or create hard starts???? I have owned many carburated autos/trucks, in my 35 year driving career, and do not recall too many issues with hot starts, flooding,percolating or the vapor lock voodoo. But I do have issues with both my flatheads, being finicky, and many times down right hard to start after a drive on wram to hot days, when underhood temps can get good and hot. I have tried all the suggestions, move fuel line far away as possible from the exhaust manifold, lower float, so what is the problem, is it something I am doing, or not doing? Is it the modern alcohol impaired fuel, is my engine drunk, and confused with this new "governmant green peace cocktail", or what? Does anyone want to take a run at Me, or suggest I do some searching on this, or should I be happy that the engine still starts and gets me back home. The 47, with a 6 volt system, is a real beach to start, once heated up, but does usually catch. The 55Fargo, will restart much easier, with 12 volts, and then needs to clear, and then runs smooth again. I do expect this sort of thing in 90 degree weather, but not ona 70 degree day. Well thats my story, and I am sticking to it, happy motoring.....

Greg, I know the 51, 3 speed in my 47 Chrysler, allows me to get to about 25-30 mph, before I have to shift, that is with a 3.73 rearend. I think you would enjoy the later model diff say a Mopar 8 1/4, with 3.23 ratio. Might be better to keep the older trans with that set-up, for better boost on take off into 2nd and 3rd. I do have some type of later model 3 speed trans here, it also has a reverse light switch on it, which would be kinda handy....

Hi Greg, this sure sounds like a problem, many of us encounter, when operating in hot weather. Is this a by-product of alcohol induced gasoline? I have set, my float down, twice, but still encounter, this type of symptom, and yes it is fluid fuel flooding the intake. Today I drove the 47 for the first time to town, stopped for gas, outside temp cool and cloudy, get in to start engine, and it is mildly flooded, but she does start, and away she goes. I would like to try and find a better solution to this problem. Is it possible, if my throttle return spring, is not tight enough, flooding could be a result. I did find this with my 55 Fargo, tighter spring, and it did not happen again, but it is 12 volt, and spins way faster, so clears faster and easier, when mildly flooded. I enjoy driving the 47, but get annoyed when I have to drive in warm weather, and this problem persists intermittently, almost makes a guy want to convert to 12 volts, for the faster spin. My battery is 6 years old, it could be getting weaker....

Hi Greg, Norman's New Yorker, is from California, if I am not mistaken. I would venture to guess 4000 lb car, straight 8, 2 bbl carb, fluid drive = not so great fuel economy. But heck those cars can cruise all day long at 70 mph, if in good mechanical condition.

I would think with the correct trusses, and 16 inch centres, 3 inches of snow should not be a problem. There are all kinds of these buildings in Manitoba, and we can get a lot of snow at times....

This may be a viable option, as long as the debris, from the tank, does not clog the line too. I am not sure my idea is the correct idea, but I would be inclined to try it. Get 2 or 3 of the see through plastic fuel filters, install 1 prior to fuel pump, in a spot thats easy for you to go and change them as needed, keep 2 on hand . Then search for a replacement tank, either used, NOS or aftermarket. The aftermarket tank I have, requires the fuel sender to go in in an opposite direction, no big deal. The tank straps into place, very close to OEM stock tanks, the filler neck, fits pretty good too. There is a roll over valve, that also vents the tank. Have a look at this website,,, www.tanksinc.com

Install a plastic see-through fuel filter in-line, before the fuel pump, and drive car, till He can find another suitable tank. He can change fuel filters when they become clogged, , and keep rolling, till all the tank liner breaks loose........

Sounds like my issues once in a while in the 85-90 degree heat, while not sure you have what is referred to as "vapor lock", or modern gasoline getting good an hot and reeking havoc. I have employed the methods you have described, at stop lights, rev up engine, gets the fuel flowing, less problems when cruising at speed. Under hood temps get quite high, the nature of the mechanical fuel pump, the pathway of the fuel lines, and the carb, get good and hot. I knwo this does not happen in my case, at cooler temps, say 70-75 and under, it is when it starts to get good and hot outside. Like you, my engine temp stays very stable, maybe climbing an extra 5-10 degrees on hot days, this can climb even higher, when pushing engine at higher rpm too. The mentioing of "Vapor Lock", gets some peoples temp rising, not sure if it really exists, or if the gasoline, with the now ethanol blend gets good and hot. Last week on an 85 degree day, after a good ride, did notice the very warm gaoline, do some funny things in the see through filter, looled like it was expanding, bubbling a little too. Man, maybe this is "vapor lock", or percolating or who the heck knows, but the symptoms still exist.....

I like the look there fellow Manitoban, the primer surfacer, must be super slick, with enamel, 400 wet/dry should block nuice prior to paint. I have shot enamel, someitmes got runs/sags, but smooth and shiny like glass. What enamel did you use? If your not using automotive Acrylic enamel or urethane or BC/CC, then you could try this stuff. MC 200 sold and marketed at Micron Coatings/International Paint, in Winnipeg 1-204-633-0022. That colour may run about $50.00 per gallon, add wet look hardener, reduce with meddium speed enamel reducer, and shoot on 2 coats. Next time, block what you have, then maybe shooot ona 2 k urethane sealer, then go over, with topcoat. Hey it looks good to me.....

FG, drill some holes through it, and yank it out,would that work, I have removed these types, twisted them out.

Thanx Guys, might as well get them done up here, about $15-$20 per shoe