55 Fargo

I agree driven prudently, may never cause any problems. Now in my case, those spring blocks are 3.25 ", I am going to take therm out ASAP, do not like the stance, and do not plan to trailer or haul mega loads. The shocks low mount on the Ubolt flanges are as stated right angles to one another, would this be a big deal, if the location, and shock travel is still the same? The driver side spring, is some other mish-mash, so need to replave it with 1 identical to the right side. I have no idea what the past owner was doing with this job.....

Paul, if you have any oil,grease type petroleum based products, clean off with lacquer thinner, solvent, varsol or reducers. There are naptha/mineral spirit combos sold to degrease and get old wax off before priming and paint, that would need to be done before primer and paint. Self-etching primer is for bare steel, it has an acid in it to etch to clean metal. I know a lot of body people who do not use it anymore, but lay on a good quality 2k epoxy primer 1st, then all body filler, primer surfacers go over that. I have opted to go with enamel based rusty metal primer 1st, to be followed with fillers, 2k urethane high buld primer, then topcoats. ATF on the surface could be cleaned off with solvent, then primers coould be sprayed on, but if your stripping to bare steel, clean off the ATF 1st, then strip.....

Hey all, my rear leafs have these huge blocks, used to space on the ubolt brackets. This is keeping my rear spring height grossly high. What can be done with this, what do I need to correct and lower this toa more sane height. Wonder why the previous owner did this.....thanx Fred

Thanx for the input Tim, Don and Robert. This set is from some outfit that merged or sold out to PlyDo years ago. Now it ain't no bargain, bout the same as the rest of the suppliers, I just thought, if they were the same size and fit, would do the Guy a favor and buy them, and save on the shipping at least. I think for mine, will go with Charlies kit, and be done with it.....

Anyone know if a kit made for a 37 Plymouth, would work on my 55 Dodge Fargo truck. I can buy a kit that was made 20 years ago, buit still in box. But I need to kbnow if it is compatible for my truck.....thanx guys

The semi-auto M5/6 trans,with fluid coupler, will have a dash pot( anti-stall) like device, as those trans need to idle down fast, and not stall, when the trans is shift from either 1st to 3rd or 2nd to th. I am not sure the 3 speed and fluid drive, has an anti-stall device, or if it is needed. There are those with experience that state, if the fluid coupler is working well, and does not leak, then leave it alone. Is this the case for you. Dodgeb4ya, knows a whole lot about these units, you could always ask Him...

Tim, seats look like they belong, nice work on ther floors BTW

Paul, that is beautiful scenery, looks like parts of the Canada. Nice Rainbows, we have em here too. But the big trophy fish are Walleye, Channel Cats, Pike and Musky. Just a few miles from my door in Selkirk Canada, there is world class Walleye and Channel Cat fishing....

Jonny, you be the opportunist of the thread.........LOL

Thanx Tim, no grabbing or chattering, just a worn clutch most likely......

Have them machined, and measured. The drums can be machined slightly to clean them up, and they will be true. The shops around here charge $10 for machining brake drums....

Thanx Dave, did a clutch rod adjustment, this helped 100%, can prolong clutch for a while. The truck goes down my gravel road at 55 mph like nothing, and 60mph on the highway is not hard on her either. I do need to do the back brakes, mopar 8 1/4 diff 10 inch brakes......

Hey all, gotta do a clutch job on my truck. local clutch and flywheel shop charges $135.00 to rebuild pressure plate and disc. Getting the flywheel machined is an extra $30.00, and a pain in the butt for me to get out, while engine is in truck. I have done a few of these clutch jobs before, is it always necessary to machine the flywheel, or depends on the flywheel surface, which I have no idea what it looks like now, until I have the clutch out. I would like to rebuild the trans too, but not sure what parts are available. Whats the best practiice on this job...........thanx Fred

Well sure I have, there are Mennonite deecendants, in many Towns, sucha as Steinbach, Winkler and Altona, and many live in Winnipeg. Lots are totally modernized from there old Mennonite rooots, but there are the old school type here. My Children have German Mennonite blood in their background rfrom theri Mothers side...

Looks good Paul, you gonna like this 8 1/4 rearend. USing the ebrake, isa good move, and nothing wrong with that. I still have a the stock ebrake, it works real good, but my Mopar Diff has the ebrakes I can use, someone did eliminate them, but I am going to put them back in service at some point. I just love the 3.23 diff, do not need an OD for rthis truck now, and I live in flat country, no hills to deal with. You gotta hurry up, and get her out for a ride, maybe drive to Canada someday......

Hey hows things in YUcaipa today, gettin good and hot yet???

I think were all Mopar Mania Mates on here:D, well there are some blokes:rolleyes:too.......LOL Working together on a common cause to keep the world populated with flalthead 6s, a worthy cause, to battle against the SBC masses:eek:

Pat the CHrysler has more leafs, than the truck, think I will leave the leafs for now, can haul a good load if need be. I need new shocks all around, at least 1 outer tie rod ends, and brakes are crappy. I am going to put a couple of hunnert lbs in the back too, all in all not too bad, especially when I get up from nightshift, my senses are a little duller then......LOL

JUst went for the 2nd legal drive, on the highway, speeds up to 60 mph. At 60, engine not revving super high, again thanx to 3.23 rear end, speed verified by Garmin. Hnandling not as bad today, very little wind, engine temp 165, oil presure 55 psi onhwy, down to 40 psi at an idle when good and warm. Brakes are the pits, and need to correct this, pedal is good and high, but you really need to push hard, to brake, must be poor shoe to drum contact possibly. Anyhew, just thought I would share this with you "chaps"........

Right in Rob KBs backyard, He could check them out thats for sure.....

Whatcha be talkin bout Dude, Don't know Brother, but no offense to the British or England, but we have very little in common with there sayings, their accents, and their way of life. Nah really we, sound nothing like the British in our speech or accent, and our customs are vastly different. In this part of Canada, our accent is very similar to much of the United States, we are much closer in customs to our American neighbours than Great Britain.......

Yup built for farm work, plan to remove some leafs andsmooth out the ride a bit....

No you won't at $1.19 X3.85 litres to the US gallon =$4.61 per US gallon. The station is at Clandeboye Manitoba near Lake Winnipeg

Hey all, registered my truck as an Antique, this morning. I then drove to buy some gas, gas gauge not working, or intermittently:(. Truck starts and runs, idles really well, engine temp about 170. This truck rides a bit rough, steers okay, but after about 40 mph, she needs work. The springs are rough:eek:, I need all new shocks, and the clutch slips, you notice it in 3rd and 4th gear if your stepping on it, or against a wicked wind like today. I drove down the highway, at about 50 mph, all is okay, but I need to fix whatever needs to be fixed for better handling and ride. What do you all suggest:confused:, I do know I need shocks, outer tie rod ends, but what about the springs, I have like 7 or 8 leafs in the back, want to take some out, for a lowe hide and softer ride. I need to do the brakes, although these work, I want to go with front disc, and the 80s drum brakes on the back can stay. Any ideas.......... My drive was to Clandeboye General Store, on Hwy 9, outside of Selkirk Manitoba, the School in the background is where my kids go to school. My drive was about 15 miles

Yup, same kinda deal on my 55 truck, very convenient, as compared to seized screws on my 47, only right door on truck has lock, that is strange......