55 Fargo

Walle, does not cook his road kill, just ask Eve

Glad to hear the trip was a success, admire your Guts to undertake such a journey. Can you elaborate on your cooling issues? I don't see why you could not have your stock rad re-cored to a 3 core modern, or how about an aluminum aftermarket rad. Are you still running a stock honeycomb rad?

thanx, I knew they used the 12s later,but was referring to 46-50 or so. The 53, with the 12 inch brakes, did they still use the same knuckle spindle assembly as the earlier 11 inch brakes, was this a larger backing plate to accomodate the larger 12 inch brakes for the 1953 model year.....

In Manitoba $10.00 for cheap brands, $14.00 for goodname brands, this is for packs of 25 cigs. I do not smoke, the Wife still does, infact She is standing outside in the rain,having 1 now, well under the front overhang of the house.

Tim, some Guys ASSU Me, that everyone who paints old cars needs to get drunk. Heck the fumes are enough, aren't they,Geesh,should I have worn a mask.

He might be suggesting the big Chryslers with the 12 inch brakes, may have different larger spindles. The Windsors used 11 inch brakes, and 4.5 X5 for wheel bolt pattern size.

Cheers to you Tom, gotta love this place, enjoyed your post

They also drove to Hershey Swap meet, 2 years ago, then south to Florida, across the deep south then north to Alberta Canada. I believe they also drove from Alberta soutwest to Arizona a few years before/ The arctic adventure ended up in Inuvik, on the arctic ocean, in early March, that was all through the rockies, BC, NWT, Yukon, Alaska. Chris and Jerry are brave souls, modern day explorers, they have my utmost respect and admiration. Now Rusty-Crusty, how about some supportive advice, you sound like all those trailer queen owners, that need a 3/4 ton diesel with all the trimming, to haul there covered trailer to the Concourse show..........bah

Charlie may have developed a kit for the larger 11 inch Chrysler spindle assemblies. Others make them, ECI, Scarebird and others too. Or if you can get ahold of a set of 10 inch Plym spindles, they can be used with the applicable kits. I have 10 inch drum brakes on the front of my 47 Chrysler Coupe, someone , not Me, installed them from a 1951 Plymouth. So now if I go to a disc brake conversion, just need to use the Plym Kits....Good Luck

Where's the popcorn, gonna be an entertaining thread.

I know, this,and I have the time, not a production shop. I have used epoxy primers too. Not that I have to explain, but my point of the post, is to let others know the versatility of the rusty metal primer,which BTW,sands a whole lot easier then epoxy primer.....and is less $, cheap epoxy primer Transtar is what $75.00 per gal, and high quality PPG DP90 approx $150.00 gal, more money,better product, but what I am explaining has worked well for me and others.

Hers is another use of Tremclad(rustoleum) Rusty Metal Primer. For autobody finishing( can already here some cringing), strip or sandblast panels, doors, fenders etc. Treat with acid wash, roll on or mix rusty metal primer with automotive enamel reducer, and spray. 2-3 coats, let this cure for a good while 2-3 weeks, then all fillers, glazes, 2 K urethane primers, lacquer based primers can be applied over the rusty metal primer, ONLY ONCE IT IS FULLY CURED. Rusty metal primer, has amazing adhesion, and corrosion reistance properties. I have done my 47 Chrysler like this, rusty metal primer 1st, then fillers, then 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, then enamel with hardener for a topcoat. This idea, was passed along to me by a fellow forum member, but i have since met others who have done and do the same. I have also met those who think this is a very poor idea, and many have told me so. I have no problems with my paint job, and if I wanted to go BC/CC, would scuff, should a sealer, then shoot on the BC/CC, if I wanted to go that route, but I don't.

Tremclad rust metal primer, and there rust paint line,allamde by Rustoleum,works well for me too. The other day I painted an air breather,it is so smooth andglossy looks likeBC/CC, a work of art. A lot opf people knock these types of paints, that they are garbage, don't hold up, rust through right away. Some only will usePOR 15 or Zero Rust, they are great products, but for the money,the Rusto products are darn good stuff...

My tailight assemblies on the 2005 Caravan, have seperated lense from backing, full of gravel dust, 1 fell off today. I dimantled both, cleaned off as much of the adhesive as possible, then cleaned all nice and purdy, and ued some adhesive and reinstalled the plastic outer lenses to the backings. I have always cleaned and washed these lights, but notice them coming apart this summer. The gravel dust combined with Magnesium Chloride, has done a real number on them. Anyone else ever have this happen with any vehicle? This is a 1st for me. Some pics.

Hey all , stripped and primered roof on Nova Canso today. Stripped of BC/CC lot was already delamintated allowing moisture to do its work. I then cleaned wiped and primered with Rusty metal primer, shot outta my HVLP Spray Gun, thinned primer with Urethane Grade Reducer, by about 25%. I shot on 3 coats back to back, this stuff flashed in a super short time, almost or just like Urethane primers, unreal actually. It was done outside, and it is good and warm. Now this will cure for a few weeks, glazes, and 2 k urethane primer/surfacer can gover, to be blocked after that. Lacquer based primer/surfacer can be used too.... Here are some pics.

Run this engine, change oil, and drive it for a while, then run tests again, sounds like a leaky valve or 2. Possibly as others have mentioned, been sitting relaxed fora while, time to run this engine a bit, get her running at temp for some miles....

Here's who you get ahold of, Norm, at Mid Canada, in Winnipeg at 1-204-475-3399, a very knowledgeable NOS, Used and New Vintage Mopar Parts. He will be able to help you out........Fred

Excellent, glad you were able to lay er down nice and smooth this time...

160 degrees farenheit

Have a look at this thread. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=8997&highlight=water+distribution+tube Pull your water tube, flush block out really good with side freeze plugs out. Most likely you will have to road some of the gunk out of the block, flush and reflush, undo the draincock on block too, make sure coolant can really circulate through this engine. Good rad, clean water jackets, new hoses, confirmed water pump in good working order. T/stat can be 160, 4-7 lb rad cap. Set engine to spec, make sure heat riser is working, allowing hot exhaust to exit more freely, better for fuel and carb too. Once all is cleaned out, ESPECIALLY THE WATER DISTRIBUTION TUBE, many are plugged in the last 6 inches, not allowing water to flow through block, up into the head, and to flow freely. Then you will stand a fighting chance, run your beach bomb( I love your car man), take for a good ride with water, get things loosened up, drain and do it again, once water can come out clean add your antifreeze mix. I figure in Arizona, you should run at about 170-190, depending on speed, hills traffic etc. You engine ain't gonna run at 160, when it 110 outside, and your booted down a freeway to keep up with traffic. Hey good luck....

Wish I could make Her Bob, Hope you have a great time there, and others from the Forum venture out to be with you.....

Hi Shel, so on my 1955 Fargo, with L6 251, should I use a 4lb or 7 lb cap, I have both. They are available at NAPA for one. I bought mine locally at a local Chain, Piston Ring....

What Rain, it is so dry and dusty here in the South Interlake, glad you Guys in the west side got some rain. Hey how about posting some pics, when you can, very interesting idea, like to see your approach.......thanx Fred

I also am running Rotella t 15 W 40 oil in my flatheads, ZDDP is around 1150 PPM. Fuzzy dice I have 2 sets, both are 5 years old plus, car and truck about of the sun most of the time..... PS a lot of modern oils are a heck of a lot better quality than 40s and 50s engine oil, at least that is the general belief.....

You are not wrong, this topic has been threaded several times, and some that is very recent. I am not condeming, or trying to be rude, just my thoughts. I really have not seen any new information added to what has been posted for a lot of years on this forum. I would enjoy seeing some new data on this subject as it relates directly to Mopar L Head 6s. I always say, if using some product or idea, "floats your boat", then it must be right for that individual. I like "Fuzzy Dice"' Don Coatney does not, they are right for me, but wrong for him.....................LOL