55 Fargo

Hi Randy, yes this enamel must be good and cured. The Tremclad Pro series, has pretty agressive solvents, high in Xylene, which was an aggravating factor, this stuff is like automtive acrylic enamel dries to the touch real fast.

Have not dealt with this yet. Will post again, as an update once I do the job, which may be a while. Thanx all for your input and help......

Yup, thats why I like to lay it on wet on wet back to back coats with a flash in-between. Go away, now that would be a good idea.........

Hey all, prepped a couple of old rims, off the back of the 55 fargo. These rims, may be used for a while, bbut are not designated permanent. I used Tremclad Pro Series Red, it's a very fast hard dry short chained alkyd high gloss. I shot on 2 coats on the 1 rim yesterday, then ran out, stores were closed already. So today I prepped the other rim, shot on Tremclad rusty metal primer, regular type red oxide. After a 24 hour cure on the 1st rim, decided what the heck, might as well shoot on the final coat, WRONG CHOICE, supposed to wait 48 hours or full cure. In my mind, it dries to the touch in 15 minutes, that 24 hours should be good to go. I shot on a light coat, and bingo, instant crinkle, 1st time this has ever happened to me. I then think, maybe I better shoot on the other rim, as the red oxide primer had been only on a few hours, but it is a slow dry, that went extremely well, and looks great. I now have to wait for rim 1 to fully cure, then will sand down and shoot on more, what dunce move on my part.....live and learn

Great truck, gotta her running? I have a 1955,56 Dodge Fargo, with a 52 box. Mine is a work in progress, she is registered and on the road, runs well, but needs a lot...

George, that is the correct head, the block and head are external waterpump bypass type. The T/stat housing confirms this also. The mount for the full flow oil filter tower, not sure if it could be brazed or silver soldered, not enough knowledge in this area, getting another might be the best bet.

FG, the oil filter canister, is a full flow type, and the best you can have for this engine. It was mostly installed on Chrysler 251, and most likely the later 265, and the industrial engines.The smaller engine 218, 228 ,did not have this, they have by-pass parttial flow oil filters with the smaller lines. Take some pics, of this area, and will see what you need, I can get you the filter for this, if needed. C48 1 1311C this is a 49 Chrysler Windsor or Royal 251 engine, built at Windsor Ontario "C" stands for Canadian. The head, if it is stock, will have an external by-pass water pump, no little bump on front edge of the head, this featured started in 1951. Please post pics, if you can, will get this sorted out.

THank you very much Hank, now I know, that all is stock with my locks, as they are tha same as in your pic....Thanx Fred

The diff is fine, a mopar 8 1/4, with 3.23 gears, modern enough. Now what can be done, will some stock type of spring perch work on this? I will keep the shock mounts as they are if I have too, they will just were the eyelets easier, but they should still work.

This is exactly correct, and these mounts cannot be used, if shifted 90 degrees, the ubolts would be way too wide over the leaf springs. I will need to find some correct mounts.....thanx Fred and thanx all, this is very hard to visualize in a picture. THis job is a real dogs breakfast, I did not do the work. The perches on the diff are wider than the stock lower shock mounts, so this must be why the previous owner used the present shock mounts. I am going to have to either find something that will work, or possibly weld on mounts onto these shocks mounts, to get things right. space on perches is 2 1/2 inches wide

These lower shock mounts do not appear to be the type I need, they appear to not be able to be turned around to use correctly as a shock mount. Not sure what they came from, does anyone have any ideas on this one. Here are some pics, and 2 pics of the truck, once I remove the blocks, it should drop the rear end 3 inches, which should be about right for my liking and use.

Yes you can use the 218 flywheel on the 251 crank, they are both 8 bolt, unlike the US built 23.5 engine witha 4 bolt crank. THose heads should be identical, have the head shaved, to increase your compression. Have the flywheel from the truck machined, new clutch, good for a long time. Other parts, the fuel pump, water pump, distributor, intake exhaust manifolds, starter motor and bell housing from truck to be used with 218 flyweel on the 251. Valve cover, head, as long as both engines are either internal or external by-pass for the water pump, being both 1949 engines, they should be the same. Hope this helps answer some of your questions. You should notice a big boost witha 251 compared to the 218, about 18 hp difference right off the bat.......FRed

Here is a pic of my 52,55,56 Fargo, 251 4spd, 3.23 Mopar 8.25 diff. She is running well, but needs a whole lot to get her to standards.

No, that has nothing to do with it, of course I would still buy the door. I just want to know if the lock cylinders in my truck, would fit into the US built trucks, if they did happen to have different lock parts, just a case of interest. I would of course take the US built locks in for keyingif they were infact different, I was only curious about what may or may not be different, that is all............ Not to be a PITA, but no one has keyed locks, that could say yes there like yours, or no they are like the Mopar built cars of the same years.

YUp, so the US built Dodge truck may have also used the Hurd H1125 key, that for used from 1940-1951, thanx Keven, just some info for my own use....

Well with the buck$ He has, anything can be had. For the majority of the masses, having just 1 old car or hot rod, can be a tough goal to obtain. I know a Guy who has a few dollars, collects cars, and other automotive memorablia, and any thime He has a whim, He just orders something, or goes and buys it. Must be nice, sure would be nice, and not being critical, as I most likely would do the same....

Actually it does matter, because I want to know, in case I ever bought other doors, which are US manufactured, what locks would they have, and would mine be interchangeable. This is one of those scenarios that is a unique way that Chrysler Canada, possibly did something different than the US built trucks of the same era, and was interested to know if mine was an anomaly, or just a Canadian thing, or a install whatever was lying around the farm thing.....GEESH just a self interest question

Thanx Keven, the 1st ebay add is what keys I have and the type of lock cyl on both my Fargo Truck, and Dodge parts truck, both Canadian built. Now My question to you Guys with USA built Dodge trucks, what keyblank is used in your door locks,is it the same as the cars????? Or is it like mine a HURD lock used in a Chrysler product. Now I suppose it could be said my truck, had the lock switch swapped in by someone, but both trucks, not likely....

Hmmmm, does anyone know what key blank and lock type they have in their Pilothouse Trucks. I know this isn't the most exciting ?, but trying to find out if Chrysler Canada, used different lock and keys in the Fargo/Dodge truck line, compared to US built trucks....

THanx for the info Charlie, I think I will pass on this Guys 37 PLym conversion kit, and will go with yours. I will PM you in the next little while, need to get all the info on what parts I need too.......Fred

Hey all, had my lock cylinder from my 1955 Fargo, at the old skool locksmith 2 days ago. He found the key blank, and keyed the cylinder, but not with what Chrysler listed as X1199G, but a Hurd 1125H, which was used on 1940-51 Fords, and 53-59 Studebakers. Now I tried this key in my parts door, and same fit. What do the Dodges use for 1955-56, I am baffled by this..........Fred

I know exactly what you mean Ed, but if I rotate them, the spacing for the u-bolts is wider, does that make sense. I am off to soccer game, will post pics later, on what I am trying to explain....thanx all

Here ya go, speedo turned 777777 today, have already put about 200 miles on this ole truck

Dave, maybe I am missing something....LOL If I switch sides, how will it the mount end up in the right location? Gotta go and have a good look at this.....thanx Fred

Thanx Dave, so I will be able to still use these lower shock mount plates?