19fortybizcoupe

Your coupe looks very solid, glad to see another one getting saved. I wish you great times in your father/son adventures on this.

I have a line on a engine that is a few hundred miles from me and I'm trying to do a long distance identification on it. the engine number is a T30b*72289 so immediately it sounds to be out of a truck. The guy pulled this motor out of a 51 Dodge the head does measure 23". I looked at the reference page here on this site and no listing with that prefix. There is a T308 but no T30b. What I want to accomplish is to figure out if its a 218 or 230. I know you can dip a wire down a plug on the head to measure the stroke, but I was hoping someone knew any facts on this motor. I also did some google searching, all i came up with is that there is a Caterpillar T30b forklift, not sure if maybe they ran this motor series in the forklift? Thanks in advance. Also if there is a existing thread here, please share the link.

Last weekend drove the car 120 + miles round trip to Rust-o_rama in Salem. Car drove great, 5th gear 65 mph all day long. Only had to shift down into 4th when I had to pull the Santiam grade just south of Salem..But still was able to maintain 56 mph climbing the hill with the Ol' 201 Flatty..im very happy..

Not yet, but I can let you know..Its on the dockett for this winter on mine..Right now I have fatman dropped uprights and one cut coil..Check out my thread

Here is a link to my thread.. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=31684

Mine are 1990 Chevy celebrity calipers

All I know is that mine is lowered with the fatman uprights and my steering arms had to be heated and bent down the same amount of drop that the car was lowered to maintain the stock geometry of the tie rods to avoid bump steer.

Here is a couple of pics from my 40 Plymouth

I would just relocate the line on the caliper by just turning it up where it mounts on the caliper..You will need to replace the seal rings but that would work..I will throw another question at you though. Why is your steering arms pointing up when it should be down? is this car lowered? That position could cause serious "bump steer"..

Sorry I posted this in the wrong topic area if it can be moved to the announcements section..

A few of us boys from here in Eugene and Springfield are gonna be heading up Friday morning..Anyone us here in the Willamette Valley going?

Guys I'm sorry, I didn't intend on starting a storm here..I will get further data for you guys. I've been so excited on just getting it back on the road and having it drive so nice..I will have to use my garman gps unit for my speed and my engine analyser for RPM's seeings how my speedo does not work nor do I have a tachometer in the car..but these are numbers that would be helpfull to know. So this weekend i will try and collect that data and post it here..I will say this..The car takes off from a stop great. No lugging or high rpm's needed..And just for kicks I put it into 5th gear at surface street speeds. Aprox 35mph and though it was lugging it still was able to accelerate..you can see in the video I posted.. O' and for the earlier question, to my knowledge my car has a 201 engine in it. Engine code starts with p10

The rear end is the 2:94 ratio..Which with stock tires would not have worked, But since Im so low im running 26" tires..So its seems to be a great combo for me. The t-5 is tag#1352-145 which is 1st: 3.78, 2nd: 2.18, 3rd: 1.42, 4th: 1.10, and 5th: 0.72

The shifter location is a great fit for my application cause I'm a very tall man at 6' 6" so the seat is all the way back..However I will be "re-moulding" the shifter to give myself some more leg/knee room. here is a quick video of the test drive.. One other note on this upgrade in my application..I also installed a 1967 Dodge Coronet rear end at the same time. So keep in mind what ever your application is check and research your gear ratios and you will have to have a drive line made. All I provided to the drive line shop was the S-10 slip yoke from the wrecking yard that I got at the time of the trans..

The only modifications needed is you have to have the S-10 throw out bearing collar and Plymouth throw out bearing sleeve machined to slide over each other. Paul has other options for this solution, but I chose this one. I had my local machinist do it, but many of you may have your own means for it..The other mod is you have to cut a small notch out of the passenger side bell housing rubber mount for the adapter plate to have clearance..