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Saw a similar Peugeot sedan on the Smithsonian channel last night on the "D-day to Berlin" program. Pressed into service with the German army - the headlights behind the grill were a dead giveaway. One of those "Hey, I know what that is!" moments thanks solely to Bob's post.

Hello, I have decided I want just a little more bling for the 34 and after scouring the internet for photo's of other 34 Plymouths (and other years) I have noticed that about 50% or more have wheel trim rings on the artillery style wheels so I started my search, in my research I noticed that most were ribbed and I also noticed that they did not extend completely to the full diameter of the wheel and left a portion of the outside exposed (the area where the weights would be if it had them) this is exactly what I want !! after scouring the net and finding a abundance of sites with 16 inch ribbed rings I found most were 1 1/2 deep and extended all the way to the outside of the wheel like a more modern SS style (not what I was looking for ) however after several hours I finally found a place with a photo of the trim rings mounted on the wheel with a good text description of the trim ring. I don't know if the trim rings were a option in 34 or not but I have noticed in photos of several nicely restored cars they are present so I'm going to order a set. I wil provide a link just in case someone else may be looking for the same. P/S does anyone know if they were a factory option ? Here's the link,https://hubcapmike.com/16-inch-4-ribbed-trim-ring-1-5-8-inch-deep-solid-stainless-steel-beauty-ring/

I was a little concerned when I found that the back panel was in one piece, mainly because when I was installing the brown cardboard panels they were really tight fitting around the windows. After comparing the two I don't think I have to much to worry about. The ABS panel opening is definitely larger than the brown cardboard and should be a lot easier to install. The stars finally aligned where I had all the bits and pieces ready for installing the fog lights, so I finally finished that task today. Only remaining item is plugging the two lights into the wiring harness. I just didn't feel like crawling under the truck today This picture makes it look like the light is contacting the grille, when it reality there is about 1/2" clearance.

Hey Joe. I thought so too until I saw the original owner's manual - the woodies only had the center grease caps- no need to "fancy" things up with extra flash like a hubcap, after all it's a utilitarian vehicle meant for work- not a soccer mom wagon!! My friend wants to keep it stock.

No, please say no .... tell me you are not going to put red rims on this beautiful car! .... Only @Plymouthy Adams would appreciate the red rims.

Plymouthy is right about reading the white paper. More knowledge about the what's and why's will help in decisions and applications of what to use. Sam is right about the oils of today being way better than the oils of yesterday. With that said the big difference in oils to me, have been the detergent vs non-detergent oils. Switching from non-detergent to detergent can wash away grime and crud in critical areas the will induce slop and wear that can damage an engine. The crank bearing races especially. As well as the seal areas causing more leakage. Once an engine gets set to operating with crud that doesn't move it covers up or clogs areas that have not had proper oiling in a good while. Back in the day you could take your car to a garage and have a top end or bottom end rebuild done in an afternoon. This was done on a time chart every few years or so and the crud problem was taken care of at that time. When time and advancements in oil properties made for a longer lasting engine, these services slowly went to to wayside. Plus people were trading their cars in every 5 years or so as America became a throw away society. Now you get an old car that hasn't been maintained properly in decades or you don't know the history on the car, you put in the modern oil w/detergent and in few months to a year or so it starts making funny noises (squeals, grinding, or whines) or it starts leaking because the detergent has washed away the crud. Or you decide to stay with the non-detergent oil and the car suddenly breaks down because it has been properly lubed and you spin a bearing. All this is to say if you don't know the history of the car you could be taking a chance either way. Doing a bottom end or top end or total rebuild on car is not in itself hard if you have a lift or don't mind laying on your back and know what to look for. A lot of this will boil down to time and money willing to be spent to make sure the car is in good mechanical shape. As for which oil to use well one cleans and lubes as it works and one lubes but can leave deposits that build up over time, but will require more in depth maintenence at a regular intervals (other that just an oil change). Check the back of the service manual for all the things that are supposed to be done by mileage. There is a lot more that the newer cars. engine tune up minor every 3k miles, engine tune up major every 12k miles. At the time these cars were made the oil filter was an option because the mantenence was easily adhered to and done in a fairly timely manner. Now to do the required things needed to do to these old cars are done by the owner or a specialty shop that cost and are not available at many locations. These cars were made to worked on by the average person with a few mechanical abilities, but now the know how is sadly lacking as most people can't change a tire with out google telling them how and even then they get frustrated that it happened to them and they actually have to do something themselves (whiney bunch of snowflakes). Anywho that's my basic rundown and understanding as well as my story and I'm sticking to it. Joe Lee

I can appreciate the Airflows, but they don't really blow my skirt up. As nice as it is, that coupe looks too much like a classic VW Beetle. I know that's putting the cart before the horse, but that's my frame of reference. They just don't have what I consider that pre-war pizzaz.

I'm not going to engage this debate other than to suggest that ANY oil available today is far, far superior to what was used in our flatheads back in the day. Probably no need to over-think this one.

My buddy and I have been working on getting his Peugeot woodie ready for the National Woodie Club event being held this year in July in Santa Barbara. I would be driving my Plymouth woodie to the event, but I will be trailering his wagon, which has never been shown before. The 1948 Peugeot 202 U (Utility) was directly copied from the 1934 Airflow. Peugeot engineers visited Chrysler's engineering team in 1934 to get permission and design ideas. As you can see, they saved $ by putting the headlights behind the grill! As far as we know, my friend's wagon is the only one of it's kind in the US. And you thought finding Plymouth parts was hard!

I bet that would be a sight, seeing 11 in a parade right after the Shriners riding past on their tiny scooters😁.

My 1950 coronet uses the same fittings as the brake lines. Its solid metal line from distributor to carburetor.

Pretty good day today. Got the water pump in and ran her for about 45 min from the temp gas tank. Smooth running, not much noise, No water leaks. ? Smoke coming out of the tailpipe at idle but I put a lot of oil in so we'll see if that clears up with a couple more heat cycles. ?Who am I kidding LOL. Put a brass plug in the bypass and clamped her down. Should be good for now. I hear there's nothing more permanent than a temporary solution so I guess we'll see LOL. The bypass hose isn't connected on the water pump side ... just butts up against the "T". I never really paid attention but is this the stock radiator? Sorry it's not a great pic. I'm thinking it's a re-core with the original tanks?. Still in total disagreement with duplicolor's idea of "semi-gloss" but I guess I just need to drop it. HAHA Freeze plugs on order but I'm encouraged by the lack of leaks and how the engine warmed up. Decided to spend the rest of the time on the gas supply to hopefully have an autonomous vehicle ... brakes later. Forgot to take pictures. The restriction in the system looks to be somewhere between the inside of the tank and the fuel outlet. I blew compressed air from the outlet and I pressurized the tank and nothing was getting through the outlet ... good solid plug. ? I put a probe into the outlet and it only went in about an inch and then felt solid so I'm thinking there's some sort of pickup in there. The outlet is about 3 inches above the tank bottom so it makes sense there's something that goes down to the bottom after the bung. I didn't see anything about the tank in the manual and I'm pretty sure I that's not the original tank anyway so I'll just have to drop the tank and see what I can see. ? Fun!! ?? My dad got inspired and decided to shine her up a bit. Not sure that's the direction I was going but hey, he's having fun and I guess there's no changing it now.? Wonder if he's going to do the whole thing. I have a feeling I'll be the one spending the quality time with a buffer LOL ... but at least it's a group project now which is freaking awesome. My dad Just turned 87 and has been an import guy since his 20's ... We'll get him converted yet. ?

The following paint formula was posted on this site some time ago. I think it came from Don Bunn, himself. I had it mixed at a local Carquest store and it appears to be an exact match for the original wheel color. Zeke YS410N CC:H Chromapremier SS Alt: 1 801J HSWHITE 154.8 843J BRIGHT YELLOW 245.1 807J LS BLACK 289.4 853J RED ORANGE 293.9 52320N BINDER 499.3 52330N BALANCER 526.0