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I recommend an online gear ratio calculator to estimate your final drive ratio in first gear, as well as RPM in OD. With the wrong combination of transmission/rear gears, you could end up with a dog in 1st, or too low of RPMs in OD. I like http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html Those T5s came in a number of different gear sets, a lot of them had 3.50 or even 4.00 first gear ratios. No problem with 1st gear pep! Be careful, or you end up mostly starting in 2nd gear. I think your OD might like a 3.73 rear axle, about 2500 RPMs at 75mph. I'm only spitballing here, and it really depends on how and where you drive. Anyone have some real world experience to share?

I cant definitively answer your question from the information provided. Typically though domestic Fargo vs Dodge frames are the same if the cabs look the same. Early on the military had domestic trucks that shared the same cabs with only minor changes to fuel fill location. The equivalent Fargo's year by year are typically the same except for the Fargo used the long engine and they had different chrome. The actual "Power Wagon" is a product made after the war and it had a similar cab although cab mounts were different than the 1940 models and I'm not really sure where the filler neck mounted. The military did not have Power wagons they had military trucks of various types so to say of the same period meaning 1940 when the Power Wagon came out after the war that would not be the same period. People use the term Power Wagon interchangeably when it really isn't They are somewhat similar to the WW2 stuff but are really not. If the truck the replacement frame came from after the and the cab looks the same it should fit. Otherwise DCM Classics reproduces them. They are often rusted out and once you blast them or have them dipped you really don't know what you are getting. DCM and MIdwest Military along with Vintage Power Wagons are some Helpful sources. Bob Harrison

Years ago I wanted a front swaybar on my 64 300. Took measurements of my front suspension then went to the boneyard and started measuring. Found a front bar from an 89 Ram worked perfect. How easily something adapted works really depends on your skills.

Rather than guessing, buy a brake pressure kit. It is a guage that screws inplace of a bleeder. That will tell you lots. If the fluid isn't squirting out at the T that switch ties into that is a problem, tells me no rear brakes to speak of. Since the fronts and the rears all get the same pressure from the same source I have to wonder how well the fronts are working? Finally, and this is important, you need to make sure your brakes are properly adjusted, otherwise this very issue can occur. Pressure will not build till the shoes hit the drums and if there is too much gap you cannot build enough pressure.

I second the opinion on 3.73! I installed a T5 behind my flathead and used a 3.54 positraction Jeep differential because I had one laying around. With my 16 inch rims and 215/85R16 tires 30.4"dia. It's OK, but too much shifting on hills. The original 4.10 was clearly too low of a ratio to contend with modern traffic. I also had a 3.90 in it for a while which was pretty good but believe the 3.73 is would be the sweetest.

If you're going to install front disc brakes I would suggest going with rear disc brakes as well. I used the Rusty Hope front disc conversion and a Jeep Cherokee diff which had disc brakes and with 3.73 gears. My original 51 had a 3.73 so no issues with the speedometer. The truck stops like a modern vehicle with 4-wheel disc brakes and parts are readily available. You can find details of the conversion in my 51 rebuild thread. The diff I used was a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee diff with 3.73 & disc brakes, Dana 44HD-A. I would suggest staying away from the 44HD because it's an aluminum center section diff. I would suggest instead look for a Dana 44 from a Jeep. The jeep diff will require 1.5" wheel spacers if you're using the stock 51 wheels.

You may want to make a hole where I made the blue circle. I believe the shift rail protrudes through the case slightly when in its forward most position, i would worry the gasket covering the hole might keep it from fully going into gear. Yes, the lower 1" is only supported by the trans, it is not touching the bellhousing. You could certainly remove it for a cleaner look.

It’s just my humble opinion and you know what that is worth since you pay nothing for it but…. As a long time racer money was always tight. You don’t change anything until it proves it can’t do the job. If you need a different gear ratio, there are many to choose from. The stock axle is really pretty good and the next MoPar axle is highly regarded for strength and it is the very same design with a half inch bigger ring gear. The stock axle uses Timkin tapered roller bearings that are standard over the counter stuff. Nothing proprietary that you can’t buy every where. So save your money there’s other things to spend it on. If I haven’t convinced you, take a look at the MoPar 8 3/4 axle, they are very good and highly prized. They have lots of ratios, limited slip differentials and they don’t have the drag of a Ford 9 inch and they do have a removable pumpkin.

My '41 Ply (116"WB) pickup is about 15ft-6in long without a back bumper.

You should reconsider the speedi sleeve. I don’t consider that as looking good.