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One thing to keep in mind when dealing with brakes that pull in one direction upon application... The fault may actually be on the opposite side of the direction it pulls. The general consensus is that the brake is "grabbing" and making the vehicle pull in that direction. But sometimes the brake on the other side is being lazy and not applying as it should. This could be caused by seized components, or by a failing flexible brake line.

No scanner. Photos are the best I can do, attached.

One thing that I found when recently working on a pair of backing plates (for a 12" brake upgrade) was that the adjuster cams on a couple adjusters did not move when the bolt head was turned. The cam is only held on by the end of the bolt being expanded like a pop rivet. Rust had stuck the cam, but not the bolt, so it was able to turn without changing the adjustment. 4 small tack welds on each got everything working correctly. Maybe something similar has happened with yours, so the adjustments aren't making the changes they should be.

Officer Grandy from the sheriff's office in NC called me today and informed me that Arthur passed away and I do not know any more details at this time. Their records show where while back I had asked for a welfare check as he dropped off the forum and would not answer his phone thus they called me. Nothing in the papers at this time that I can find. I will stay on this a bit and see what I can learn. Rest in peace knuckleharley.....

I haven't done the disk brake upgrade, but for the sake of some future owner, maybe your son or daughter, or a grandchild, or who ever, document the parts that were used. Not all of the parts store employees will recognize some 20 year old brake calipers..... I may do that project on mine at some point in the future, but I'm not crazy about disk brakes. I've had more time and mileage between brake jobs with drums than with disks. Maybe I'll be able to find some self adjusting drum style brakes that can be installed, maybe even larger diameter. Loren has done some research and work on installing larger drums, instead of going with the disks, and I like that idea. EDIT - Correction: I said "self-adjusting", but I was thinking of "self-energizing". (There may be other terms used for this design - I forget things, and had to look it up.) EDIT 02: I'm actually a bit confused about what constitutes a self-energizing brake design. I understand how the single cylinder type works, but it seems to me that the dual cylinder type on our cars are also self-energizing, although perhaps to a lesser degree. I know there was discussion about this here before, but not sure where, or when.

Appreciate your idea, since I wasn't even thinking they could have been installed for protection. I did find an old notebook in the glove box with some very early service entries, which might indicate a conscientious first owner. When I take out the front and rear seat bottoms to install the sound deadening panels and the new carpet, I'll pull off the front seat leading edge hog rings holding the covers in place and take a look at the original fabric. Stay tuned.

This just reminded me, as a kid my dad would use a slight coat of grease on both sides of a copper gasket with no issues. So I did the same for many years until I started to read and follow the manufactures gasket instructions.

Not sure what the woven pattern material is, definitely not cloth fabric. Very festive looking. I had found an old brown Chrysler Corp envelope in the trunk that held the seat cover install instructions. I had previously incorrectly stated "dealer installed" when I should have noticed they were just manufactured by Chrysler Corp and could have been installed by anyone.

All this information has been a great help, and I really appreciate this community. My mechanic confirmed that the shoes were replaced at the same time as the wheel cylinders and brake lines, and said they looked brand new. He had adjusted them so that each shoe was lightly scraping the drum (and the drums are smooth). While there is still some pull to the left on hard braking, I will do some experimenting with repeated hard braking as another member had done, to see if that clears it up. I know I can replace the shoes, which I'll consider after taking care of a few other items. The car drives so well that I've decided to keep it, and instead sell our '48 Buick Sedanet. I had bought the Sedanet at auction (a long-time bucket list car) this spring, but have come to realize that I like the Plymouth better for a number of reasons. It's in amazing overall condition with zero rust or rust repair. As soon as I got the car I had 4 blackwall radials mounted after painting over the rim rivets. Runs smooth with no smoke, good clutch, reasonably tight steering, still has some original paint. It came with documentation on what appears to be a dealer-installed reupholstering job that looks really nice. Over the weekend I bought sound deadening panels and a maroon carpet kit, along with a paint restorer and a set of new pads for my buffer. Also bought an underdash universal temp gauge that included a selection of glandnuts. The needle had somehow detached from the dash gauge. I may eventually tackle that job, but seeing temp gauges in the $300+ range plus the R&R challenge convinced me to go the easy route for now. Will test in hot water before installing.

I expect Pentosin makes a comparable Manual transmission oil, you could call them and see if they have a recommendation. I belive they are German based. There may be a different procedure for adjusting the power shift, but here is a little about checking and adjusting the standard shift linkage. It never hurts to check that everything is set right, as somethings can sag and bend over the decades.

I was looking at some of my old parts I bought at a swapmeet a long time past. This fuel pump was from Macleods that went out of business decades ago. I probably paid more than the sticker price at the swapmeet. Sure would be nice to buy a brand new fuel pump today for Canadian $3.99! 😊 I’m guessing this is from the ‘60's. Lots of suction and would probably work for a while until the modern gas killed the diaphragm.

Follow the gasket makers recommendation.

You know you got me to thinking. To the best of mine knowledge there are only three items on my car that are part of the vehicles original electrical system. The starter, the horns and the ignition switch. Everything else has either been updated or replaced or both lol. I do not run the stock generator and voltage regulator setup. That's been replaced with the same system an 87 Dodge Diplomat would have. The entire wiring harness has been replaced because the one that was in the car when I bought it was a hacked in Universal hot rod kit. The headlights are LED the heater fan is later Model 12 volt. I do have some additional electrical items to add to it. Backup lights, map light, interior dome light. But I suppose the thing Los is thinking of, is the dual throttle body fuel injection system. Oh yeah the distributor is still original Style but I have the parts to convert it to electronic ignition. And no I'm not going pertronix

while the old mopar brakes when in top shape are some of the best there was AT THE TIME....technology marches forward and better safer systems come along even if morphing at a slow rate. Is it good that your mechanic could learn from this....yes....would I still trust him...likely not. The bold statement of no means to adjust means he did not truly study the design staring him in the face, zero access to older manual, no internet, no desire to be proactive and learn. He could well have read many articles in shorter time than for anyone depending on a forum member to respond....sorry I just don't support shops that are not only inept to repair but not keen it seems to seek out any knowledge on their own. His non-adjustable comment is a total deal breaker.