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Just because something is new doesn't make it better. I give you gangster rap as an example, lol. Seriously, we drive 70+ year old cars.

There are a number of potential leak points, I am planning on taking some pictures that show them all, and note which can be fixed with transmission in the car, out of the car, and at rebuild time. I will make a dedicated post so it isn't buried in this one.

whose wife is also in charge of his hobby....

I saw the meme not as passing judgment on disk brakes, etc but as observing how some will insist on the "purity" of something like old-school lubricants while sanctioning upgrades to other components of their car. I thought the meme was amusing and to-the-point......well played.

I believe 3% was the red zone on the tester. The fluid we used was Bosch ESI6-32, which exceeds DOT 5.1, $14 a quart, yes it was in quarts, lol.

Assuming it's fuel related has the fuel filler cap vent been checked, does the fuel pump actually pump fuel immediately after it dies? Is there fuel in the carb bowl when it dies? Is the float set correctly? Is there a vacuum leak in or around the carb or manifold, pinhole in the fuel lines? Assuming it's ignition related, are the points installed correctly including the tension spring, do you have spark from the coil wire or at the plugs? How strong is the spark? Is the timing correct? What's the condition of that little wire inside the dist? Is it rubbing on anything and grounding out? Do you still have the point system installed or have you gone to electronic? Is the exhaust damaged or plugged? Does it run well when everything is cold? Does it start well after an extended cool down period? Did you find any problems in the carb or dist. when you rebuilt them?

I suppose we need not worry about the simplicity of plain ol 30w motor oil anymore. Cuz ya cant find it. (lest not Yalmart no mo)

Looks like half the splines are wiped out. Probably why it sits deeper?

Thanks for putting those part numbers in! How do you like the "Fast Second"? Do you use 2nd OD much? I chose to go with the standard 1.83 second, so that 2nd OD would be a better split between 2nd and 3rd. Here is the difference in a 1940 "Fast" second transmission and a 1941-1956 "standard" second. The blue highlighted columns are BW overdrive gears, for standard 3 speed, ignore them. Calculated with 3.91 rear and 28" tires. As far as leakage, I have seen many of the posts about it. I belive this is caused by a few factors. 1: many of the bolts, in bearing retainer and tailhousing, are open to the transmissions oil resevoir. My '55 OD has these holes counter sunk and filled with rubber so the bolt heads act as a seal. This will take some care to duplicate on rebuild, but thread sealant should also be used. 2: lack of vent/breather. There is no dedicated vent on these transmissions, just the opening for the input shaft. This has no seal, just a threaded portion in the bearing retainer to wipe off the oil that is trying to work its way out. So hot, expanding air is pushing out in the same place that oil is already barely contained. A filtered breather plug added to the top of the case might help, especially if a custom bearing retainer was made, that would fit a lip seal. The last versions of these transmissions had this treatment from the factory.

To give some closure to this, and consolidate what I have learned, here Is what I have come up with: I tracked everything down to convert to the '40s early '50s conventional blocker ring synchronizer assembly. To do so I needed: main drive pinion(853864), clutch gear assembly(1115595) synchronizer stop rings (853867), second gear (852456), and the correct shift fork (1138246). I also did the factory recommended upgrade and replaced my stamped synchro struts (detent plates) with the later solid ones. They most likely are directly interchange with early a-833 ones. If you have a spare 833 one floating around your shop, I would love to confirm this. I also got a synchro spreader spring intended for Fluid Drive cars, it preloads the blocker ring to help the 2-3 shift be more efficient. It is part number 1115576 I found that the blocker rings (WT243-14F) are shared by many different makers, including ford (B5A-7107A, Studebaker (1555429) AMC and Jeep(640397) This lead me to see that Studebaker rings were made slightly different- they often have grooves that cut perpendicular to the inner threads, just like more modern rings. Apparently this is referred to as an 'oil bleed' and helps evacuate the oil that gets between the gear and the ring. Makes sense. Again, this helps the synchro be more efficient, which should give smoother, quicker shifts. Of course, the rings I got did not have this feature, but were at least forged. I considered doing it right and making a drill fixture to add my own, but after talking to the engineer at my work (also a car guy) I ended up just cutting grooves carefully with a die grinder. After spending so much time reading about blocker rings, I really wanted to play with cutting teeth off the rings to further improve shifting, but I couldnt pin down what would give reasonable longevity, so I just mimicked the stock T5 rings, but cut 6 teeth less off. I ended up having to have my heat pump repaired, so I am not able to send everything out for REM polishing, but I belive I have all my parts together. Hopefully I can get this thing back together and give yall a report on how it shifts in the next month or two.