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I was able to check all the boxes. I worked on the carburator linkage today so it will work properly. I had it put together before but it just didn’t seem right. Posted a help message and Brad stepped up to help with lots of pictures. Let me know what you think. I bought my truck from the original owner over 25 years ago and still working on it. Still working on the brakes. I’ll get it done one of these days. I hope everyone has as much fun as I had today.

Problem solved! Knew I had gas. Obviously had air. Only think left was spark. Previously tested the spark by a helper holding the sparkplug to the block while I cranked it over and him confirming I had spark. Quality of spark I didn't question. It has a Pertronix unit on it and in reading through the trouble shooting guide one of the causes of a no start is resistance in the ignition wire and it explained how to "jump' the wire to test for this. Followed the directions for jumping it and it fired right off. Disconnected and cleaned all the connections from the battery to the solenoid to the horn relay, etc. Everything was tight and looked clean while taking it apart but after hooking everything back up it started right away with the turn of the key. So some minor corrosion somewhere was preventing preventing a good spark and the starting fluid (or gas) would provide enough in the cylinder to get it to start with the weak spark. Tried to start it with a hot engine, no problem. Starting after it has sat for a few days, no problem. Hopefully problem solved. Sadly after all these years of frustration it was caused by a simple problem.

I need to weld those in...a previous owner did that to mount extra lights. My guess is signal and reverse lights. There brain obviously didn't have enough timing advance.....

Mine doesnt have a top half and doesnt look like it was broken off or anything. I have to assume its a difference in... year? Trime level? Model? not sure.

so are you missing the top half of your horn ring? I looked at my P15 and it is a complete circle. Anyway nice job on the interior so far!

Good idea Tim! Get to work on that right away!! Drive line it is! Get it done Los-Control! Im gonna grind on the frame of my Bro's and make it done. 48D

I think Red Line MTL has been mentioned around here before as a great xmsn oil. Fairly pricey. So maybe not ideal for the folks with a leaky transmission. ? Some good info here: https://www.redlineoil.com/mtl-75w80-gl-4-gear-oil They talk about GL-1, synchos, (clutch gears) GL-5 etc. Seems like the golden nectar for old Mopar trannies.

Using NiCu line helps even more. Another thing to do to prevent leaks is to seat the flare into a fitting. I like to use a spare fitting to screw the new double flare into and seat it a couple times, then inspect the flare for a circular ring where it mated properly tot eh fitting, if it's not there or not a complete circle it'll leak.

25" Dodge truck cable Tach drive distributor used with Stewart Warner Tach. 30" Moly Block engines are different.

Bakersfield, CA - 1952, after the earthquake. The Beale tower was damaged and later demolished. @Jim Shepard