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I took on a project to rebuild an old Airline Tug and restore the original flathead but unfortunately I am downsizing this project and am parting out the engine and transmission. The engine has no stamped numbers or they have been removed at some point, however I have a block casting date of 1935. It was mated to a 727 transmission through an aluminum adapter which I have been told is pretty rare. Make me an offer on what you want. Any larger items will have to be picked up in Gainesville FL. I can arrange shipping with you for some of the lighter bits. Ive got Short Block - Valves are hard frozen and I couldnt remove through any means without destroying them, no idea on other internals condition Head - Cleaned up and painted Exhaust/Intake Assembly - Painted, Middle plate is gone, all in all good condition Oil Pump Original Distributer - New internals Adapter plate, torque converter, and a 727 Transmission - I suspect transmission is in fine, tug was in service as recently as 2021 but have never driven more than a short distance.

yeah you can big guy, it's called catching up on all the things that did not get done because of the stroke....blew right over the IWOYTD, works for me......to make up for it you need to have a IWOYT weekend.....kinda like when you run a red light, you make up for it by stopping twice at the next one.

Power........street burning power!! 48D

GAWD I HATE PAINT !!!! Nuff said.

I'll have to look.....my apologies if it isn't there. My stroke is two years old, so I would think I can't blame it. 48D

Just my 2 cents. If things are working as they should, the plate rotates smoothly on a flat plane ... I had one distributor with ball bearings it rotated on .... while I did free it up, the ball bearings had rust on them and were no longer smooth and round .... the plate would go up and down as it rotated. And if the vacuum advance is frozen and non working, when the plate rotates and the advance arm does not .... something has to give and the pivot point with no clip would be the weak link. The vacuum advance will pivot with vacuum applied to it ... have you tried this approach to use a little hand held vacuum pump to operate the vacuum advance? Does the lever still pull off using the vacuum pump? .... this is what the parts will see is a vacuum moving the parts. .... not you manually moving them. So in a perfect world, no clip is needed .... If you have something less then perfect .... A clip to hold the arm on may not be the correct fix. These are pretty cheap and many uses for them around a vehicle.

Hi Rich same here, there is no clip listed in the parts book (at least not in my parts books). Sonny

The reason I think it needs a fastener is because when I rotate the breaker plate (as the vacuum advance shaft moves) the shaft pops off of the pin. Found them today at Ace Hardware. Need to bring in my breaker plate to get the right size. These are called "Push nuts for un-threaded shafts" I will report back with my results.

on my unit there is a spring clip that hold the vacuum advance arm in place but it might not be necessay to have one in place. I looked in my 39 desoto parts book and there is no listing for a spring clip to hold the lever onto the stud. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Like I told my son Porsches are expensive whether it's the girl or the car.

Here is a picture of mine before I modified it .... there was no clip.

I took a closer look at the pedal assembly. If I press in the correct pedal (that wasn't installed) in the 2 lower studs and force the throttle linkage upwards in order to connect it to the upper hole in the pedal, it's too tight a fit. The throttle linkage shaft will run against the edge of the floor hole it runs through. I had the car on a lift again and figured, maybe I can unbolt the 2 studs and place them a bit further downwards. Seems someone had the idea of welding the nut and stud bolt together and to the body.🙄 It also seems the someone replaced a part of the foot well floor board. Maybe that changed the whole geometry of the pedal setup. Maybe I can enlarge the hole of the throttle linkage shaft a bit to get enough distance...

Upgrade to a Porsche and avoid the spelling and pronunciation kerfuffle! 😂 Let's face it, a 911 is every BMW guy's ultimate goal, haha.

Here's some info from "The Dodge Story" by Thomas Mc Pherson. You might need a P15 Plymouth wiring diagram.🙃

I have some distributors as spares. The original retainer clip looks like this, I lost one and replaced it with an e-clip from the hardware store selection. The arm isn’t going to jump off the pin, it’s just what I did. Rick D.

Please keep us posted OUTFXD step by step !! 👍👍

With 6v bulbs and relays you should be ready to start installation. Get a good ratcheting crimper, a bunch of butt splices and a spool of 12g wire so you can modify the harness as needed. Yes, getting high current off the ignition and headlight switch is a prime reason to do the upgrade. https://tinyurl.com/558cus9s

Hi new here. I have a 1940 Dodge D16 Deluxe Special 4dr (canadian). Does anyone have a copy of the wiring schematic for the d16m

So I opened up the paint booth today. Was a balmy 55 degrees out. There were no bugs injured in the process Actually came out OK, the fenders were total junk. A before pic of the passenger fender, the best one of the two. They are still rough, they are stronger now then when they were new ... I love them. I will work them over before I put final paint on them .... I see a few dents already that I classify as character and will be left alone.

Okay, Got my Toyota endorsed headlight kit, Got my 6v H-4 bulbs. All sorts of ready to start installing. A thought occurred to me BEFORE I wv as neck deep in the project (A rarity for sure, but it DOES happen from time to time). I am Pro Relaying the headlights, especially as EVERYTHING (Horn, headlights, brake lights, EEVVEERRYTTHIHNNGG) goes through the ignition switch and I am keen to get some amperage AWAY from the switch. Will the relays that come with the kit work on a 6v system, would relaying the system require 6v special relays, or am I totally safe Plug and playing the existing the new bulbs into my existing harness? Edit : Read further down the thread posted by Sniper and read about relay issues caused to Sam Buchanan and ended up ordering the Bosch 6V relays.

Think it depends on which fitting we are talking about. The vacuum advance technically has 3 fittings and 3 different threads. The middle adapter I believe is NPT threads like @Plymouthy Adams suggest, then standard lines will thread to that .... the carburetor has the same adapter and believe a good hardware store would have them.

I'm guessing no there is no clip. The vacuum advance is bolted solid to the side of distributor and the plate also is stable .... yes it rotates. So with plate in place then attach arm of vacuum advance and then tighten the vacuum advance to side ..... it cannot pop out of position. I do not remember removing a clip from my 1950 distributor while converting it to electronic ignition. When I assembled the 1979 dodge slant 6 distributor to complete the conversion .... 1979 just has a hole in the plate the vacuum advance arm slides into .... no clip to hold it. They never needed a clip to hold them once all is bolted together.

My 1950 coronet uses the same fittings as the brake lines. Its solid metal line from distributor to carburetor.

No clip on any of the dozen that I’ve rebuilt. I believe that the arms rigidity within the vacuum advance makes it hard to jump off.

Hello Pep48, Not sure this will help however on my spare Chrysler Corporation of Canada spare distributor the vacuum advance lever simply fits over the pin. I cannot find any sort of fastener or clip that retains the arm. Couple of photos of the spare I have.