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Very clean and nicely done. Perfect time of the year in AZ to do some test drives and work out any issues. I worked out west of Goodyear and would take my motorcycle on I-10 to Tempe and man that pavement stays hot all night long in the summer.

'33 was 189.8 or more colloquially, a 190. They stroked it to 201 in 1934. Then in 1935 they widened the block to fit the water distribution tube and made the water jackets full length. Bearings, pistons, etc. are the same for the '33, '34, and later 201 engines. All gaskets, etc. are the same for all those years except the head gasket which is a bit more narrow for '33 and '34. Crank and rods are different between '33 and the rest though you could drop a 201 crank and rods into a '33 to make it basically the same as a '34.

Beautiful car. I had a 1933 PD coupe and it was a lot of fun to drive.

it is a 201

I know this is an older post but DCM just started selling new aftermarket replacement pieces.

33 and 34 were before the 201. I think they are 176

Well Keith, You will have to excuse my ignorance on this "Free Wheeling" subject as I am still learning but from what the previous owner told me it was equipped with it (this PE was optioned with everything available on the business coupe ) there is a cable that runs from the dash to the trans I believe , there is also a unit or mechanism between the starter and the gen that had something to do with auto clutch ? per the previous owner they have been rendered in op. some of my research suggest they were problematic and in some cases dangerous ?

Solly, welcome aboard from sunny South Grafton, Oztralia..........nice car mate!!............andyd

Beautiful car. 201 ci 23” long engine I suspect? If I recall in 1934 they offered “Free Wheeling”. Does your plymouth have this feature?

Beautiful automobile! I'm sure you will find much enjoyment with it. Color is great!

Congratulations on that purchase. Another feature you should notice starting next April or May is that, if it has been gone over properly, it won’t overheat in the desert summer. You might have some issues with heat soak/warm restart because modern fuel is designed for injection systems rather than carburetors. But unlike some other brands of cars of that same era the cooling system is well designed.

Wow! Fannie Mae is a fine looking automobile. Nice to hear your purchase went smoothly... Personally, I wouldn't change a thing ,,,Drive and enjoy.😊

Thanks Gents !! I wish I could take credit for its restoration but I cant. I am the benefactor of somebody else's hard work. All I can do is claim to be the caretaker for the next generation. I do have one complete restoration under my belt (1964 BelAir ) and partial on a 56 Olds but my increasing age and health necessitated purchase of a 98% completed veh. Ill find enough maint. to keep me busy.

Wow what a beauty love the colour

Beautiful car, congratuations

Spiffy! I have a pair of wing tip brogue in nearly the same colors. I think they may be also known as spectators I think they were popular when your coupe was built. Great lookng car enjoy have fun!⁶ ,

It took awhile 50 years to be exact but my dream has finally been realized , fat fenders and running boards !! All went well, sales transaction, (private party) title transfer and registration with the 1934 vintage stamped from copper license plate, any way I am very impressed with a few things 1. how quickly and easily it fires up , I was a bit skeptical of the 6 volt system 2. how well it rides and steers even with the bias ply tires. 3. how smoothly and quietly that flat head runs, it actually rides better and quieter than my 56 Olds. I named her Fannie Mae . If your from the Midwest and love chocolate you may recognize Fannie Mae as the big chocolate company from Chicago. she reminds me of a big box of assorted chocolates and caramels , this color combo may not be everybody's cup of tea but it works for me and turns a few heads. I've heard some people say it doesn't show up on Plymouth color charts some say it is a factory color carrotine # 4 I think also referred to as the burnt cars ? I'm sure you here would know better than me I'm a pre-war Plym newbie !! I'm learning more daily and as I dive in hope to learn more, I'm not sure what's 100% original to the car and what's not (I'm not a stickler for that) I hope to lean on you guys as I try to learn. here's a few pic's of Fannie.

I got myself a 1950 Plymouth Service manual not necessarily for repair, but for the frame dimensions and disassembly instructions. Turns out the one page I found on a forum post was the P20 frame, just not labelled in the book precisely. From the looks of it and from me peering into the engine bay, it is looking more feasible for the Lexus engine with electric transmission to fit in its entirety without a lot of cutting. Now if I could find a dimensional of the 3.5L Lexus engine, as well as a floor pan schematic, I could cross and maybe do my own schematic showing the overlay. Peering into the Plymouth engine bay required removing the loose hood that sat on top - by myself. Do you know how heavy those things are? Yeah, you do. Well, actually it didn't seem too bad at the time, but using outstretched arms with the peak of the hood in my gut, my wrists took most of the dead weight. So I've had a cast on my RH since Saturday and got more pain relief yesterday when they doubled my dosage of strong anti-inflammatory drugs. (So that explains my numerous quick responses to various threads and maybe some weird answers. (Maybe. Friends would say that is a normal trait.) Thanks all for the entertainment while I mend! Not to mention some very useful info! I haven't been to the shop since Friday, except to access a certain fridge which houses further medicinal agents. I am being kicked out of the house this afternoon on wifes orders. With the extra pain relief, I might even feel like doing something other than computer stuff. John

Rich, I will not tell people on this forum if you were to also - late at night- in a small dimly lite room that the grinding machine also works on early Ford brakes of the same Lockheed type , same tool etc.! I imagine you know of some old ford owners and can use just word of mouth to get your info out with a promise to Not tell any older Mopar cars that they may know what you are doing! 🥸 🤐 DJ

I've been very happy with the quality of radiator from DCM I got. it was a aluminum aftermarket one, that I had them make changes to make it custom. they also often have used parts they may be willing to sell so might be worth calling them. their website has the radiator as configured for stock listed but being aluminum, cheaper than a copper core, but likely still spendy.

Thank you Brian, those look really nice, but probably out of my price range. Thank you L_C, looking good!

Farmer John: yes you are correct with your statement. I missed adding in the 0 for the example. so in my example the correct measurement is 11.010 or then thousandths over. If I do go through with this idea I would create a form and instruction sheet along with an area for the mechanic to write in the appropriate information. Rich Hartung

What I did, removed brackets from original and mounted to the radiator .... My concern was I needed to raise the radiator up to clear the bottom radiator hose and this puts the fan cooling the lower 1/2 of the radiator, not the middle .... it works fine.

Hi EAG: Yes, you can bypass and jumper your way out of almost anything, BUT: let's do a little logic here.....Does the car still have its original 1951 wiring harness? If so, take a good look. Is it stiff and brittle? Can you see any bare wires? Will pieces of insulation flake off with just a little flexing? Do the headlights go dim when the engine goes from road speed to normal idle? Again, is that wiring really 73 years old? If the harness has been replaced, was it done right? (i.e. with the appropriate gauge of wire) or a slop job by someone who didn't know what they were doing? Remember the name of the game with 6 volt systems is current, and the more current you are trying to draw, the more deleterious the effect of a given amount of resistance will be. Worn, frayed and oxidised wiring will have more resistance than wiring in good condition. And it matters: for example, if you draw 12 watts from a 24 volt system, you're pulling a half amp. (24x.5=12). It will be one amp in a 12 volt system (12x1=12) and yes, you can see where this is going, 2 amps in a 6 volt system (6x2=12). Lots of folks will switch out their 6 volt systems for 12 volt because they use wire of a gauge specified for 12 volt systems, because that's what you'll find at the auto parts store. Things will of course, work poorly. Six volts will work just fine when done right. Clean. tight connexions are a MUST. NEVER use those auto parts store battery cables! Triple ought is the way to go! So, my advice to you would be yes, check the ignition switch, but don't eff around, rip that harness out and replace it. For functionality, peace of mind and safety. These harnesses are quite simple, I've made quite a few, and with modern insulation you can go up in gauge (down in number) with the same thickness, giving you even better current handling. Supplies are available from Rhode Island Wiring and YnZ's Yesterday's Parts. They will also make the harness for you, even going up in gauge and with original style colour coded cloth coverings if you should so wish. Expect to shell out some buckaroos if they make it for you, though. I bought my first harness some 30 years ago, but after that I made my own. The process is quite easy, actually: you stretch out the original harness on a board 3 or 4 meters long and duplicate the lines one by one, keeping track of your colour codes, of course. You will want a volt-ohm meter at your side. You can also use the opportunity to add wires that might not have been there originally, such as for turn signals and back-up lights that you will want to add in the future. Hope this helps.

US Radiator has a few Dodge Truck options to consider.