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My mistake this is the difference between early and late 1950 m6 transmissions
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Wanted to add that I do not plan to remove every little ding .... I'm getting the main stuff, fixing a bunch of the little stuff ... all the while looking at dings to save and call character .... it is a truck and I plan to daily drive it and use it like a truck. If you look back in this thread we can see I did some work on this cab corner and it has some putty in it. Yet I left 2 dings and call them character .... I could have and still can fix these .... I'm fine with them. If you look up at 2 O'clock there is another .... I took out 50 dings in the back of the cab, I left 10. Just looks natural on a old truck to me .... The bed rail needs replaced on the truck ..... whatever ripped this fender and smashed it flat, bent the rail also. I think this damage might have retired it from a company construction truck. Not worth fixing. From that point the truck belonged to a night watchman that sat in a guard shack at the entrance to the construction company. People remember seeing the truck parked there all the time. My only point is, If I make the fenders too nice and take every ding out of them, they will not look right for the truck. Work smart, not hard
- Today
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Agreed, honestly I would be happy to learn just one way to work metal I'm just stumbling through the repairs on this truck, I have not done it many times in the past ... Now I can say I've done it once before. The first fender I did wrong by trying to work it out with one patch .... while just having simple hand tools. With the right tools it could be done. It really does not matter though, it still worked out in the end and the finished product will be fine ... it was just more difficult because I had to make pie cuts in the metal to get it to go the way I wanted it to ... it was stressful wondering if I was going to get it ..... just metal, in the end it worked out. The 2nd fender was no stress, I looked at it and knew what I needed to do and did it in 3 patches and it was just easier to get to the same place as the first fender. So anyone reading that is still learning, like myself ... just dive in and do it, you will learn from it and next time will be easier. If it turns out bad, just cut it out and try again .... just metal and time.
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Dodgefran started following Engine Swap
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I've found that I am in need of another engine. I"ve been thinking of a more modern engine so I can make this a daily driver with automatic trans. Has anyone got info on wheather or not a slant six would fit into my 38 Dodge Bros RC. Does anyone have the measurements? Thanks in advance.
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le gaulois started following Demo Almost Finished
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9 foot box nice job ! I just removed the transmission Inspection plate in the cab well I discovered that the top slector for reverse an first was not moving just the lever was spinning free . Going to fix it an that should do the trick. Great pic shows 53 is different the 49 Thank you all ! Still a work in progress!
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Thanks. I'll check the filter inside as soon as the car has arrived. It's still on it's way to Europe. Dennis
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Replacement elements have paper media so they are disposable. New elements need to be verified that the OD and length fit inside the canister, and that the element seal IDs fit onto the canister center tube.
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I need an original style thermostat. I have purchased two and cannot figure out how to install either without excess space which will not seal the thermostat and would let it float around inside the housing. Any insight is appreciated. Well I spent two 5 hour days trying to get the pilot bushing out without success. Found out that the new slant 6 dizzy i converted is not long enough to reach the oil pump drive. luckily I bought a used dizzy to do the conversion. Seems the 25" block dizzy is longer than the used Dodge dizzy I purchased. I have converted my original dizzy to trigger a HEI module that triggers the Flamethrower 3 coil. Did manage to get the bottom back of the cab welded in plus the inside piece. One more long piece will complete that repair, then on to the one piece of the floor that I need to make and weld in.
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1949 was the first year of the M-6 ....1949 to early 1950 used an external brake band. Mid 1950 used internal brake shoes and drum for the E-Brake. Late 1950 to 53 had other minor misc changes too.
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The filter element is available but I don’t remember the number. I’m thinking the Fram number is C134PL . Hopefully someone else will chime in.
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So neither Transmission is original. I thought 48 was the first year of the m6.
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Well, technically and as I understand it, the oil filter was optional. So "original" in the most literal sense of the word would be no filter. However, it is period correct, lol. I bought a new setup from Omix since I had the sealed setup.
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Ok, thanks. These cars are new to me. Can you clean those replacable filters? Or always a new one?
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There were two options. One was a sealed filter that was replaced as a unit and the other was what you have that has a replaceable element inside. It looks original to me.
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Just a suit holding a door for a Tucker
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sjaakslinger started following Original '47 oil canister/filter?
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This is a column from a 53 B4B. The shifter support had broken off and was separate. I put it together today according to the three spot welds that had broke. All correction should be done with the gear shift in a neutral position. I would loosen the lock nut, pull the retainer clip and turn the threaded adjuster down to remove any free play in the selector link. When the adjuster pin fits into the lever, with the slack removed, you should be able to get 1st and reverse. Any engine or body mount changes will effect shift linkage on a column shift.
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A DeSoto M-6 trans ...late 1950 to 1953
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The transmission case that is in the car is junk. The internal parts may be good even if the outside is not. Look inside the spare trans before installing it. If the insides are bad and the case is good, you may be able to swap internals and make one good out of two.
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It looks like the patches went in butt welded so you should be able to make them look good. You can still hammer & dolly some shape into them if need be. A lot of the dings come from the inside. Just running a file lightly over the metal will find them and a couple light taps of the hammer takes care of them. I'm always trying to learn, more than one way to work metal is the reason I asked about the process.
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The motor has a letter code ind. From what I read it was used for an industrial application. It doesn't surprise me that the linkage is shop made. I think I will remove the trans in the car and put the other one in. There is no history on the car but it seems like the original motor died but the trans still worked. They put the industrial motor in and then stopped working on it. This car was in a wrecking yard before I got it. Let me know if I am making a mistake installing the trans that is out of the car. Thank you
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And, the one linkage that goes under the clutch fork looks like someone "made" it by welding it together.
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docrock, It doesn't look like my M5 Fluid Drive, after additional pictures. I really don't know what you have there Tom