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I wouldn't want to cut into the seat frame. In that case I would just attach the belts to the seat frame. As I and others mentioned, keeping your and your passenger's rear end in the seat is the primary goal. The secondary impact(s) if you come out of the seat is just as bad, if not worse, than the initial impact. When I was a kid, I was riding center seat in our Dad's car, bench seat, there was no center belt, my brother was on the passenger side with his belt on. (This was "way back when" - no such thing as child safety seats or seat belt laws.) We were stopped at a red light and got rear ended, in town so it was low speed, but I still bounced off the dashboard of the car like a pinball. Got a really nice shiner (first one!) out of it. My belted in brother barely spilled his milkshake.

Check their website (I haven't done so for a while), but Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts (Newton, MA) advertised rebuilding fluid drive units until at least recently. I don't remember if they do it themselves or shop it out. Kanter Auto Products there in Boonton, NJ used to sell the parts and would arrange a rebuild, but they seem to have gotten away from that. I used to get a lot of parts for the Dodge and Terraplane from them, but they have not been very useful the past several years. May be worth checking on. Granted, this doesn't help with the diagnosis, but may be options if you find that the FD seals are the problem.

where was the green paint noted....if an underside of a panel or say in the trunk....this would be ecosheen paint....a greenish color that varies from assembly plant to assembly plant.

I have searched and searched and cannot definitively determine what my cars color code is. Yes it is a mute point, as I am leaving the car as-is for my electro-mod build, but a friend noted some green paint showing through the two front fenders, and now I wonder if the grey coating is original or not! Attached is the tag from my firewall, does it reveal the color? None of the number sequences seem to match the color charts. Where else would it be ID'd on the car itself? Thanks! John

I follow eBay great regularity for certain things. Today I spied an Overdrive for sale. From the photos I see it is missing the solenoid. The buy it now price is $695 plus freight. I prefer to “rebuild” my own so I am not interested in it. However, for a rebuilt Overdrive that price is reasonable. To find it simply search for Plymouth Overdrive.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this '39 Job-Rated hearse rolling loaded on the internets

Always roll your windows up when parking on the street 👈🏻

Sure Id like to be a member of the R10 club...Impossible to find, and if you find one, tough on the wallet

I sent out a request for some help for you to a very experienced guy. Hopefully he can help. Let's see

1947 Chrysler Town & Country Convertible Significant drip that has saturated the cardboard square I placed on the floor. Engine oil level is fine, so I’m thinking it could be transmission/fluid drive leak. I suspect it could be the fluid drive seal. I don’t think I have the tools or know-how to fix this myself (it’s my father’s car), does anyone know of any shops in northeast/tri-state area (Jersey preferred) that might be able to diagnose and fix this? Any help would be appreciated.

I have found that to be true even with my newer vehicles. I have replaced the tailgate latch on my truck three times since the original factory one went bad. SAD

I would save those old mounts, maybe even send them out to be rebuilt.. Why? Because odds are if you bought your new mounts and they are recent made, overseas no doubt, they will fail.

The foil-faced jute from Quiet Ride is really nice. The floor in my truck is Dynamat, jute, rubber floor mat. The jute makes a big difference. Don't place anything that will absorb water in the doors as this is a wet area. The jute on the floor can also be a problem if your cab leaks (like mine). So I have to place rags to intercept the water before it can soak into the jute.

My thoughts also about the U bolts trying to escape,lol. Sounds like a set of long tongs might come in handy. Didn't discover the motor mount condition until I took the water pump and radiator off,at least not starting from scratch.

Didn't have the chance to put the car on a lift today, but I checked the wiring to and from the relais. Seems 1 wire is clearly thicker than the rest (red one left of the relais). The wiring doesn't seem to be the issue though, seems the speedometer is telling an incorrect speed! I checked the speed with a gps app in mph and when the speedometer indicated around 35mph, I was actually driving around 29mph.... So it seems the overdrive is working correctly. Next Wednesday the car has it's inspection by the dutch 'DMV', so fingers crossed it passes. Can't wait to take the car on the road. Dennis

Some dexterity required with the U-bolts. Remove the nuts, and the U-bolts are free to drop wherever they want. Reinstalling the U-bolts may seem to require three hands, but is doable with two. BTDT (been there, done that - did I just invent this, or has it been in existence since telegraph days, like LOL?)

Thanks for your input I may be over thinking the process. I read the few Archives posted, and they ranged from simple to a major undertaking. I think I can remove the "collar ?" Bolted to the front cross member ,is held in place by two U bolts on each side and the bolts just under the water pump and will slide out with the motor lifted slightly, sure hope so. Again thanks for the help

The middle area of a smooth sheet metal panel will vibrate the most, so whenever I have applied insulation, it is to these areas: inside back of cab, inside doors, between headliner and cab. Do not discount the area above the firewall behind the dash. Complete coverage of the inner firewall and cab floor really helps. Keeping engine noise down is good, but eliminating the drone from the engine and road during highway excursions is beneficial, especially for those of us who have sustained hearing damage.

thanks everyone

Agree with ggdad; acoustics at a minimalist level comes down to braking up harmonics and wavelengths, and acoustic dampening panels need not be full size compared to the panel they're treating. Firewall is always a plus, some floorboard action, back wall behind the seats, roof, inner door panels, it's all cumulative, yet with strangely diminishing returns. Quiet Ride solutions has both kits and individual pieces (deadeners and reproduction panels) for the Job Rated pickups and trucks (other eras, too, such as Pilothouse, Power Giant, and more), have a look at their offerings and perhaps that will help guide your decisions.

Many think its about surface area coverage, or thickness...reducing noise is an art form: right stuff in the righ place. My B series only has the floor covered and a JUTE firewall coverage. Not much else and I can talk just fine with the windows up. You will NEVER get to the levels of a modern vehicle...millions of dollars spent there.

invest in a better stereo system...

Any suggestions? I applied some sound deadening matts to the floor and half way up the firewall of my 47 WC. It didn't make a real noticeable difference. Next I was thinking the doors. Do you apply the sound deadener to the outside door skin or the inside door skin/panel? Where else besides doors? Will it really make any difference? Truck is pretty much original.

I put a dab of Napa's Sil-glide (sp?), a silicone based grease, on the part that contacts the cam, and a very light coat on the cam. I use that contact point like a little bitty scoop. That way there's not a lot on the cam to slop all over the place, and the grease can ease off the contact as needed. At least that's how it goes in my mind. Something my Dad taught me - not the type of grease, but where to put it. Seems to work well enough, I redo it every year when I take the ol' Dodge out of hibernation. The Sil-glide doesn't dry out or liquify and isn't affected by temperature extremes. (I also use the Sil-glide everywhere it calls for lithium based grease.)

VINTAGEPIC: saw this shiny Woody Power Town Wagon circled by gawkers on the internets