Roxanne - She don't have to put on the red light.

[FlashBuddy]

Got the floor boards removed. They're not really boards at all but metal panels with plenty of rust. I'll be trying to patch the cancer areas with fiber bondo then paint with POR. I thought to paint the bolts and washers with a silver Rustoleum, but now I'm not sure I'd like that contrasting color with black floor boards.

 

Notice the replacement bolts and washers from Ace Hardware (and their price). Should I go for the vintage crusty, ah er, "patina" look or paint 'em and make them all uniform. Currently they have been vinegar soaked and Scotchbrite scrubbed.

 

Thoughts?

Edited March 6, 2018 by FlashBuddy

[Don Coatney]

So what is next? Gonna sell your body to the night.

[WarriorDog]

Muriatic acid will get the Zinc coating off.  They WILL begin to rust after that!!!

[FlashBuddy]

LOL, I'll have to check with my wife first but I think I know her answer.

[FlashBuddy]

On 1/26/2018 at 12:22 PM, WarriorDog said:

Muriatic acid will get the Zinc coating off.  They WILL begin to rust after that!!!

The new ones? The originals have been rusting great. I thought replacing them all would be one route, but chickened out when I imagined the look of a 67 year old interior with ultra Shiney bolts.

Edited March 6, 2018 by FlashBuddy

[NiftyFifty]

Actually molasses and water mixed works amazing as a rust remover, my hot rod building buddy uses it all the time.

 

I went new hardware...unless your going concourse build...nobody will notice

[Merle Coggins]

You found Acme thread bolts at your local Ace?

[FlashBuddy]

10 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

You found Acme thread bolts at your local Ace?

What you see in the photo is what I found. They have a guy there in the fasteners isle named Art who is older than I and a pleasure to work with.

[WarriorDog]

1 hour ago, FlashBuddy said:

The new ones? The originals have been rusting great. I thought replacing them all would be one route, but chickened out when I imagnet the look of a 67 year old interior with ultra Shiney bolts.

Yes. Just put the new shiny parts in a container with some muriatic acid.  It will remove the Zinc coating and the new will not look so "new" anymore.  They will start rusting very quickly - almost immediatley.  You can soak them in some baking soda water after that to neutralize the acid.  I did this with all the Zinc coated parts I took in for powder coating.  His rinse bath before he powder coats can't deal with the Zinc coating.  

[Eneto-55]

1 hour ago, WarriorDog said:

Yes. Just put the new shiny parts in a container with some muriatic acid.  It will remove the Zinc coating and the new will not look so "new" anymore.  They will start rusting very quickly - almost immediatley.  You can soak them in some baking soda water after that to neutralize the acid.  I did this with all the Zinc coated parts I took in for powder coating.  His rinse bath before he powder coats can't deal with the Zinc coating.  

Almost immediately is no joke.  Years ago I worked in a plating shop, and if someone stopped you to ask a question right as you took something out of the Muriatic acid tank, you could see it rust right before your eyes.  (We plated a lot of stuff with cadmium, and that's what I did with the hardware on my car.  I even cad plated the intake & exhaust manifolds, the head, the oil pan, and the bell housing, too, I think.  I can't tell you if it burns off of the exhaust manifold, because over 35 years later, I still have not run it.  My wife & I spent 18 years out of the country, and my car is still waiting for me to retire so I can finish it.  Problem is that when we moved back to the States almost 15 years ago, we settled at a place over 900 miles from my folks, where the car still sits.  I just don't have a place for it here, or a way to get it here, and my job keeps me too busy anyway.  Self-employment does that.)

[kendall]

I would probably start fresh with stainless for ease in future removal. I just finished restoring my floorpans and choosing hardware. My floor will remain visible so I went upscale with anodized washers and countersunk s.s. bolts. The all stainless washer and bolt are off the shelf at Ace and would create a smoother transition underfoot with or w/out floor mats. My 2 cents and that bought a tootsie-roll pop when I was a kid.

[FlashBuddy]

On 2/5/2018 at 10:12 PM, kendall said:

I would probably start fresh with stainless for ease in future removal. I just finished restoring my floorpans and choosing hardware. My floor will remain visible so I went upscale with anodized washers and countersunk s.s. bolts. The all stainless washer and bolt are off the shelf at Ace and would create a smoother transition underfoot with or w/out floor mats. My 2 cents and that bought a tootsie-roll pop when I was a kid.

Yeah, those are nice and a great idea, thanks

[FlashBuddy]

My floor pans are still lying around the yard and garage. I've been too busy working for a living or going skiing on my time off. Have to make hay while the sun shines and fresh tracks when the snow flies.

 

I was going to paint the floorboards with POR, ERGO black, but the more I've thought about it, yellow would be cool. I like the yellow wheels and think having the same accent color for the floorboards, then put some kind of black or dark gray floor mats over them. When I wire wheeled the rust off I uncovered a thin yellow base with a heavy black over it. Guessing that somebody once before cleaned and painted the floorboards; perhaps they were originally yellow?

 

I like the yellow of the front wheel, not the darker more saturated yellow of the rear wheel.

 

After a lot of digging here I've discovered that 1950 wheels came in yellow or black. Trying to find the original paint color has been a nightmare. The existing pages from whatever manuals have been seriously degraded by age. I tried to revive a couple to get a better idea of what I might be looking for.

 

 

I can't tell if it's Sun Yellow, Victoria Yellow or some other yellow. I see it around the forum here and elsewhere and it has been heavily discussed. Even so, today you can't find a product code that resolves to something that can be purchased and applied. Zeke has a formula. Looked like a foreign language, not being a paint scientist and all.

 

Zeke's Formula: 

Quote:

Here is the formula for the original cream color wheels:

YS410N CC:H Chromapremier SS Alt: 1

801J HSWHITE 154.8

843J Bright Yellow 245.1

807J LS Black 289.4

853J Red Orange 293.9

52320N Binder 499.3

52330N Balancer 526.0

I have no idea what it means, but it supposedly came from Don Bunn. I had it mixed at my local CarQuest store and sprayed it on my sandblasted wheels using an HVLP gun. You have to mix it with two other ingredients first - resin and hardener, I think. The wheels look great; I compared the color to the inside of a spare wheel and it is an exact match to the original color. Zeke

1950 Truck Colors Chart: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/_00005.htm

ggdad51's version: http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/ggdad1951/media/bWVkaWFJZDo0MjE3NDQ0Mw==/?ref=

 

 

I'm totally confused at this point and have no idea what to do. I took one to the local paint shop and had it color matched - allowing for a little fade over time. This is where I ended up. Too dark and saturated IMHO, but it will have to do 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2023 by FlashBuddy

[kendall]

Auto paint stores have spectrophotometers that will match your paint sample and put that color in a rattle-can while you wait. My favorite is the Spraymax 2K which looks like a Duplicolor can but has a button on the bottom, when pushed, releases a catalyst to the paint to give you a hard, professional finish. Definitely good for wheels. The only downside is cost at about $22 a can.Two cans would probably do 4 wheels . It can't be stored once mixed as it will harden in the can and a mask is necessary for the lungs. 

[RNR1957NYer]

An alternative to getting custom filled spray cans is buying a quart of the color you want from an auto paint store and using a refillable "Preval" sprayer. If you aren't familiar with it, the Preval consists of a glass jar that takes 12 oz of reduced paint with a replaceable container of propellant that screws on the top and sprays like a spray can.  I get mine from the local Ace Hardware, and the full jar+propellant unit goes for $6.95, and replacement propellant cartridge goes for $5.95 (each cartridge will spray at least 16 oz of thinned paint).  I use these a lot for small jobs when I don't feel like cleaning a spray gun  afterward.  I painted my P12 rims with a $5 quart of Ace International Red off their close-out shelf, and the rims on my '09 Challenger with a quart of Nason Tor-Red enamel with a hardener, so you can spend as little or as much on the paint as you like without needing a compressor or having extra reduced paint with a short pot-life.

[FlashBuddy]

Great stuff. Who knew? I'll head to Ace and check it out.

[kendall]

Your wife says; Turn on the red light....turn on the red light....turn on the red light....turn on the red light....you don't have to turn on the red light!   No offense in any way  and for punishment, that melody will be stuck in my head all day!

[FlashBuddy]

My wife and Roxanne are good friends. I'll hear my wife singing early in the morning; "Roxxxxxannnne...”

 

Bought a new work bench today and got to roll Roxanne out of the garage to make room for the assembly and install. Our driveway is just steep enough that it would take 4 or 5 guys to keep her from rolling down into the street. Clever me, I positioned the Ferd F150 behind her and pulled Rox back into the big truck, then backed the Ferd down the driveway with Rox rolling along, butted to the grill. Remember, no floorboards and so no gas pedal right now 

 

The point of the story is how great it was to see Roxanne in full sunlight. Put me in a happy place. Seeing that both rear wheel cylinders were leaking brake fluid made me happy too. Ordered a 3 legged hub puller of substance 

Edited March 6, 2018 by FlashBuddy

[lonejacklarry]

How are you going to get her back up the hill?

[FlashBuddy]

Uh, put the Ferd in D and giver it a little gas (very little). Job done.

[kendall]

Reminds me of my distant past . My dad would break down in his cab some where in metro St. Louis and get me out of bed at 2 in the morning. I'd bump that 66 Fury 3 of his 30 miles home with a tire lashed to the front of my Comet. Bump too hard ? No damage but the little white haired head in the car in front would jerk back! I couldn't hear him, but I knew the exact expletives coming out of his mouth. Words dads reserve only for their sons. But for that sole 30 minutes of the bump game,  a 16 year old boy controlled his dad's 'everything'! We were a good team at it too.

[FlashBuddy]

Great story @kendall, Jan Baby liked it a lot. 

 

Got the bench assembled and the shop light hung. Bought 1 double LED fixture at Costco for $20. Thought I would buy a few more if they were any good. I think it is great but Costco had sold them out in a week.

[FlashBuddy]

I was hoping that parts ordering would be the only thing I suck at but it turns out I suck at painting too! My prep is decent and I get the paint on nice. There was a time in the 80's where I made surf and sail boards for a living; Dave Johnson's right hand man in Goleta California. It was his expert tutelidge that helped me garner a first place finish at the West Coast Shootout surf sailing competition held at Jalama State Beach Park many years ago... I digress

 

Finished stripping the toe boards and floor pans and was going to brush on POR 15. Upon reading the can I changed my mind. Says you can paint right on the rust! I stripped 95% of the rust, 100 % from the toe panels. Since my plan is to drive it to the summer car show and display it as a "survivor" I now will leave the tops unpainted and just coat the bottoms with Rustoleum gray matte. 

 

If you have a keen eye, you may notice the uppermost toe board is upside down in relation to the other two. Seriously, what's my problem? Today I hope to re-strip it and paint the correct side 

 

[ggdad1951]

POR15 doesn't want "old" rust, it want a light patina of fresh flash rust to bond to...on FEF I used the POR15 prep products to produce the light level of rust.  Works wonders..

[FlashBuddy]

And I didn't realize you can thin to 5%, nor did I realize it comes is silver! I'm saving my can of POR15 for the frame. Black, not silver 

 

I used Permatex Rust Treatment on all the metal. Not sure what the purpose is. Reading the can doesn't make it clear, but it came highly recommended from a member here.

Edited August 20, 2018 by FlashBuddy
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